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You will have to change the connectors to match the Fbody distributor. I got mine at pick-n-pull. You'll have to get pigtails for the ls1 throttle body sensors but it is easy, color codes are all the same.
Ok, shouldnt be to hard. Yeah I already have the ls1 to older style tps sourced out to buy as well as for the aic. Im pretty pumped to finally have my car the way I want it. Well engine at least haha
Hey guys, sorry that I haven't been updating you all on things (if you were curious). Have been busy and have been a little nervous to order all the parts. Have wanted a newer c6 so I have been debating on buying one or continue working on my 84. Well needless to say I bought most of the parts for my new intake upgrade on the 84 but I am not sure what fuel pressure regulator I should use. I am looking for one with a FP range of 10-25. I have found some but I know nothing about FP regulators. Need help!
Also I'm not sure what would be the best way to plumb/ set up the regulator. Should it be set up after one fuel rail and before the other like I have seen? Or after both rails?
I did what you are looking to do, for dollars. I ran 18 PSI (at one point....for my combo it was way too high). I'm not "into it" with the fancy (expensive) aftermarket regulators and the whole parallel plumbing deal. Pressure is equal in a hydraulic system, so...
I used the standard/stock plumbing, my simple modified-to-be-adjustable stock, regulator, and the "Marine TBI" spring. That got me a pressure range that you are looking for; something like 15 to 20-something PSI. Would have worked great....if my engine had needed it.
I ended up back w/the stock spring in a stock/GM marine TBI, vacuum referenced FPR that I set at 15 lbs and it gave me ~10 lbs at idle w/18" vacuum.
For less than $25 bux, HERE is what you need to achieve your goal.
Thanks, haven't been able to read them yet but I will tonight!
So I had a chance to read them but I didn't really find the answer I was looking for. Should have been a little more clear with my question tho. My question really is if I should run the fuel lines in series or parallel and what the main differences are as well as benefits of each method.
I did what you are looking to do, for dollars. I ran 18 PSI (at one point....for my combo it was way too high). I'm not "into it" with the fancy (expensive) aftermarket regulators and the whole parallel plumbing deal. Pressure is equal in a hydraulic system, so...
I used the standard/stock plumbing, my simple modified-to-be-adjustable stock, regulator, and the "Marine TBI" spring. That got me a pressure range that you are looking for; something like 15 to 20-something PSI. Would have worked great....if my engine had needed it.
I ended up back w/the stock spring in a stock/GM marine TBI, vacuum referenced FPR that I set at 15 lbs and it gave me ~10 lbs at idle w/18" vacuum.
For less than $25 bux, HERE is what you need to achieve your goal.
Any chance you have a picture of your set up? The benefit of a VRFPR is to smooth out the idle correct?
Any chance you have a picture of your set up? The benefit of a VRFPR is to smooth out the idle correct?
If there are any pics, they're on thirdgen.org. I'll look.
VRFPR was beneficial in my case b/c I'd gone from 305 CID to 400 CID. To feed that I'd gone from something like 45pph injectors to 90 pph injectors. That worked under most conditions, but at idle the 400 didn't need much more fuel than the 305 so w/o ECM tuning and the big injectors, it was too rich. The VRFPR fixed that...a side benefit was fantastic highway (high vacuum condition) mileage. I drove from Park City UT to LA and averaged 25.xx mpg with a BW T5 trans and 3.45 gear.
Great thread! I'm very much looking forward to seeing your EBL flash/pro flo XT conversion.
Its really cool you got your 84' as your first car, mine wasn't my first car but I did get it back when I was 16yrs old. I've had mine for 14 years now and I'm glad I kept it, I think you will be happy you kept your 84'.
All the best with the swap, I'll be watching this for sure.
Thanks! I am very eager to get my parts and really start working. Still need to get a FPR and other fittings, IAT sensor, radiator housing, and an alternator bracket like yours dmittz. Any input on how I should run my fuel lines? Series or parallel?
I had a motorcycle when I was 16 that I used for my commute to work but when I laid it down during the rain the next day I went with my dad to pick up my 84. I would have kept my 84 regardless if I bought a newer vette or not but I wouldn't have been able to spend any money on it.
This is a good thread. That intake up there with the LS throttle body?
If, for whatever reason, a guy wanted to update a C4 to a 58xx system and the 6 speed trans? That would make it a breeze..
Thank you, I'm hoping it will get better when I get my parts!
If you are referring to RWDsmokes pic, yes that is an LS throttle body. I would love a 6 speed too. If my tans doesn't hold up after this build I might consider a 6 speed but we'll see!
Thanks! I am very eager to get my parts and really start working. Still need to get a FPR and other fittings, IAT sensor, radiator housing, and an alternator bracket like yours dmittz. Any input on how I should run my fuel lines? Series or parallel?
I had a motorcycle when I was 16 that I used for my commute to work but when I laid it down during the rain the next day I went with my dad to pick up my 84. I would have kept my 84 regardless if I bought a newer vette or not but I wouldn't have been able to spend any money on it.
Thanks ill keep you updated!
I don't really have any advise for you on the fuel lines as mine are still in the stock TPI configuration as I am still using my stock fuel rails.
Hello all! So most of my parts will be in tomorrow! In the mean time I decided to clean up my garage a little and work on one of the other projects I was doing. I am in the process of replacing my hood, front bumper and impact pad with parts off a 90s vette. The new hood will work great with my Pro Flo and my old bumper had a big dent in it so that was no good. Was able to get the impact pad on and the front bumper on but not bolted down. If I could go back in time I would have done all the things I have done/want to do all at once! Would have resulted in a better product and been a lot faster in the long run.
Some of the things I have done in the past include pulling the rear end to replace the fluid and bushings, pulled the trans, engine and most of the front end to replace bushings. I wish I had more pictures but the only one I have is of my old/new engine.
I'm still slowly setting mine up, this is roughly how i ended up setting up my areomotive fpr...
I did some minor changes to the return line after this picture was taken, mostly i smoothed it out after running a new hard line...
I also made a pair of block off plates for the factory fpr, used aluminium flat stock from a true value hardware store, homedepot and Lowe's should stock the stuff as well.
I took one of the factory fpr bodies with me to find the correct width.
when making them i found the bolt hole locations were very sensitive to the direction, so i did a direct copy of the ahape, and included the tabs from the original to keep everything simple...
For the seal i cut the center out of the regulator diaphragm...
My build included heads, headers, 3in exhaust, xpipes, flowmaster 40's, and a camshaft...
running @22psi with the fpr.and 80lb injectors, i'm about to drop the high pressure spring into my areomotive FPR...
The car is also faster than i had hoped for, i beat a turbo WRX the other day...
And i have a 3.07 rear end...
haha nice! My car is pretty quick as well but I wouldn't mess with most of the cars in my town. A lot of built cars here. I am able to keep up with my buddies 2015 mustang 5.0 on the low end of speed (>60mph) but when I do the pro flo sway I'm looking to beat him. I had my car dynoed last year and was at 200hp and 290tq with stock intake so I'm pretty happy about that. Wanted more but it means that my engine is capable of putting out more and my intake is restricting it.
Your engine bay looks great BTW. Sense I plan to use hard lines for my fuel set up I am curious how using them was for you? What kind of fittings did you use in order to be able to use hard lines? I have never messed with fuel lines, fittings, fpr or anything like that so I have no idea what I'd need in order to use hard lines.
O and P.S. thank you from pointing me to thirdgen.org for the EBL flash, there is a bunch of info on there. I might still need your help when I get there tho haha
You should have no problems giving the local cars a run for their money with that thing!
And i used AN fittings with 3/8in aluminium fuel tubing.
Lots of trial and error, and i learned its super sensitive to over tightening.
For the oem fuel lines, fuel line in side has an adapter to the AN fittings.
The return line i screwed up and ended up cutting it, and installing a stainless tube sleeve and nut (-5AN), and then adapted that to -6AN to match up with the rest of the tubes, rest done with aluminum AN fittings...
Just waiting on the EBL Flash and the new wiring harness. 
