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I've heard and read it's better than just getting like a hypertech chip.
No where close to me to get a custom tune.
Mail order brides could also be efficient and perform well. Haha
Hyperjunk, from what people who have taken apart the program say, turns on the fans earlier. Plus the sticker is worth an easy 20HP.
Agreed. IF the guy can do it, he is being reckless by giving you a hot tune without being able to slowly tweak it in. Only way around that is if you can datalog and make runs and tweak it.
Until they no longer need the "Green Card", you bet they will.
It is a 86. I would love to go with Moates but I do not know if I could tune it myself. I would like to know how just seems like alot of parameters that I know nothing about.
Here is the way I look at it. YMMV. If you are changing major stuff every month, I'd spend the time learning it. OTOH, if you are doing it once every 10 years, the buying equipment, renting dyno time to test, etc, isn't really worth it when you consider having to study, trial and error (error might be expensive). I'd drag it there and have them look over it while I do something else amusing, come back and drive it and give them feedback so they can do DD adjustment.
Some "mail order tunes" will work IF one provides a data stream log.
I did this with PCM4less and MrWillys and had great success.
I believe the mail order you're referring to are those "fit all" tunes that are useless.
They will be better than just you telling me what you have and I make up a set of educated guesses and write accordingly. OTOH, if you take it to a dyno facility and datalog and send it to the tuner for adjustment and check it till you aren't leaving anything on the table, fair enough. Many of the tuners will take your specs and write it, hence my labeling it "guess a tune". If I had to do that, I'd definitely write it to be a little softer since I am not watching it and what the car is doing, just for the safety factor.
> You can try me: greg @ BlowerWorks.net
> For the most part (whether L98 & LTx) I want you to buy the Moates Ostrich and the datalogging cable. I prefer the you log and we edit so we get it right and you learn how to do on your own. A one shot tune we can do but is rough-certainly a good start - particularly if changing out injectors. No matter we can discuss. What I want to stress here is the enormous capability of the GM ECM's whether L98 or LTx. In most cases more powerful than most aftermarket once given the incredible software available to us today from TunerCat & TunerPro !!!
> If you own a L98 I might try to sell you a new slot style MAF sensor ... have 3 to choose from... all the way up to 1000 gm/sec i.e., well over 600 RWHP. Absolutely no reason to go S/D over MAF once you try a new slot style MAF !!! MAF much more forgiving !
> If an LTx I have done many tunes but I hope you'll see the wisdom of the "back & forth" over the one shot mail order !!!!!!!
So call me to discuss your options !!!
What datalogging cable do I need? I gonna order the Moates Ostrich.
I agree with you on the tune changes, but I personally like $32B better the $6E but either will work fine with AE changes and some minor tweaking of fuel and spark.
Pat (Tequilaboy) prefers $32B as well,but I never really talked to him as to why.
When I had a earlier c4 I repinned it to a '730 ECM and ran $8D and $58 when I put the powerdyne on it.
I converted my '94 to speed density too, but it's just a couple of flags in the bin.
> You can try me: greg @ BlowerWorks.net
> For the most part (whether L98 & LTx) I want you to buy the Moates Ostrich and the datalogging cable. I prefer the you log and we edit so we get it right and you learn how to do on your own. A one shot tune we can do but is rough-certainly a good start - particularly if changing out injectors. No matter we can discuss. What I want to stress here is the enormous capability of the GM ECM's whether L98 or LTx. In most cases more powerful than most aftermarket once given the incredible software available to us today from TunerCat & TunerPro !!!
> If you own a L98 I might try to sell you a new slot style MAF sensor ... have 3 to choose from... all the way up to 1000 gm/sec i.e., well over 600 RWHP. Absolutely no reason to go S/D over MAF once you try a new slot style MAF !!! MAF much more forgiving !
> If an LTx I have done many tunes but I hope you'll see the wisdom of the "back & forth" over the one shot mail order !!!!!!!
So call me to discuss your options !!!
IMHO This is your best option. Greg has a great wealth of knowledge and a good sense of humor
This is the route I am doing. I was not able to get Data Master so I am using Tuner Pro Rt for data logging. My 1992 is currently running on the Ostrich (with no chip).
I agree. I am referring to the ones that make an educated guess and stop there.
I sent Greg an email. I think this is the route I am going with, my problem is I cant get the engine running like I would like to even do any datalogging. I am going to replace the TPS and IAC next week, I have tried adjusting and its not helping. I fear removing all my egr components is adding to the problem cause the ecm still thinks its there. I am also replacing the knock sensor and ESC, surely this will help.
Some "mail order tunes" will work IF one provides a data stream log.
I did this with PCM4less and MrWillys and had great success.
I believe the mail order you're referring to are those "fit all" tunes that are useless.
This is exactly what I did when I put the 383 in my car. I gave PCMfor less the specs and they burned me a chip. I then ran the car with new chip and recorded some data logs. I sent the chip back with the data logs and they burned me a new chip. I could probably benefit from doing it again, but it runs pretty well at this point.
I sent Greg an email. I think this is the route I am going with, my problem is I cant get the engine running like I would like to even do any datalogging. I am going to replace the TPS and IAC next week, I have tried adjusting and its not helping. I fear removing all my egr components is adding to the problem cause the ecm still thinks its there. I am also replacing the knock sensor and ESC, surely this will help.
Don't replace any parts until you know they are broken, that is an expensive way to trouble shoot. I also do not believe the elimination of the EGR will cause you any issues other then a check engine light, it will not cause it to run poorly.
I sent Greg an email. I think this is the route I am going with, my problem is I cant get the engine running like I would like to even do any datalogging. I am going to replace the TPS and IAC next week, I have tried adjusting and its not helping. I fear removing all my egr components is adding to the problem cause the ecm still thinks its there. I am also replacing the knock sensor and ESC, surely this will help.
Doesn't the ECM activate the EGR only when cursing past a certain length of time and when other conditions are met? IOW, it shouldn't matter until you cruise for a few minutes.
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