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Hello, I have a 92 corvette that had a no crank no start issue. I bought and installed a VATS bypass that plugged into the relay plug. I'm still having the same problem. Has anyone else experience the same problem?
Hello, I have a 92 corvette that had a no crank no start issue. I bought and installed a VATS bypass that plugged into the relay plug. I'm still having the same problem. Has anyone else experience the same problem?
Thanks in advance.
You might need a PROM with VATS deleted. For sale at TPIs about $200. I say this because I needed a PROM with VAT and EGR deleted and the TPIs PROM did the trick
Last edited by Mountaineer; Jul 11, 2017 at 09:04 PM.
Hello, I have a 92 corvette that had a no crank no start issue. I bought and installed a VATS bypass that plugged into the relay plug. I'm still having the same problem. Has anyone else experience the same problem?
Thanks in advance.
Whoa up (sorry, it is a Texas thing)
What leads you to believe that you have a VATS issue to begin with? Have you taken a look at your starter/solenoid? Also a battery, undercharged will exhibit similar conditions.
Please give some more information. When you turn the key on, what happens? Do all the lights come on but no crank? Have you run a quick diagnostic on the battery condition? How about the battery cables- a little bit of corrosion will allow some most of the systems to power up, but provide not enough to spin the motor.
Start with the basics then move up.
Last edited by billschroeder5842; Jul 11, 2017 at 09:13 PM.
When I turn the key to engage the starter, all lights work and don't dim. No crank, no start. Battery good, starter good. After I put the bypass in, it started good for a week or so then nothing and I had to tow it.
Whoa up (sorry, it is a Texas thing)
What leads you to believe that you have a VATS issue to begin with? Have you taken a look at your starter/solenoid? Also a battery, undercharged will exhibit similar conditions.
Please give some more information. When you turn the key on, what happens? Do all the lights come on but no crank? Have you run a quick diagnostic on the battery condition? How about the battery cables- a little bit of corrosion will allow some most of the systems to power up, but provide not enough to spin the motor.
When I turn the key to engage the starter, all lights work and don't dim. No crank, no start. Battery good, starter good. After I put the bypass in, it started good for a week or so then nothing and I had to tow it.
When I turn the key to engage the starter, all lights work and don't dim. No crank, no start. Battery good, starter good. After I put the bypass in, it started good for a week or so then nothing and I had to tow it.
1. Are you sure that the solenoid is getting a signal?
2. Assuming #1 is true, is enough battery charge going to the starter?
3. Assuming #1 and #2 is true, is the starter good?
You say Battery good and starter good. How did you determine this?
When I turn the key to engage the starter, all lights work and don't dim. No crank, no start. Battery good, starter good. After I put the bypass in, it started good for a week or so then nothing and I had to tow it.
Is this car an A4 or an M6?
I'd start with determining if the "by-pass" you either bought or fabricated in some fashion has failed. You mentioned plugged into relay - doesn't really work that way for most. Is it a plug-in device that was just inserted into the 2 terminal connector at the column?
Mention where you bought or what you fabricated. First thought is "if it worked for a while" and now doesn't you go back and determine if what you did was correct!! Sounds like a self inflicted poor installation MAYBE!
I'd start with determining if the "by-pass" you either bought or fabricated in some fashion has failed. You mentioned plugged into relay - doesn't really work that way for most. Is it a plug-in device that was just inserted into the 2 terminal connector at the column?
Mention where you bought or what you fabricated. First thought is "if it worked for a while" and now doesn't you go back and determine if what you did was correct!! Sounds like a self inflicted poor installation MAYBE!
Or maybe VATS was once again blamed for a different problem?
I have had an interesting time with the starter. It was oil soaked from a previous issue. It wouldn't work when the engine was cold unless you jumped it. Checked the battery and alternator and they were good. Checked that it was getting a signal when it failed and that too was good. Had the alternator checked and no issue. Took starter out for checking and it had oil crud inside. Rebuilt it and life is good. Before that, it was exhibiting all the signs of a weak battery. Hard or slow crank or just seemed not to crank. A jump would fix it every time./
I am a mechanic, so I think I can figure out how the bypass is installed and all the easy things you're asking have been verified. Starter, solenoid battery....... The no crank no start happens if the car is hot or cold. It's an automatic. I bought the bypass on Ebay.
I am a mechanic, so I think I can figure out how the bypass is installed and all the easy things you're asking have been verified. Starter, solenoid battery....... The no crank no start happens if the car is hot or cold. It's an automatic. I bought the bypass on Ebay.
When it has a no crank condition, does it get the signal? Maybe there is a way you can hook up a temporary relay to power the starter when it fails?
I am a mechanic, so I think I can figure out how the bypass is installed and all the easy things you're asking have been verified. Starter, solenoid battery....... The no crank no start happens if the car is hot or cold. It's an automatic. I bought the bypass on Ebay.
Does the security light stay on solid when the key is turned to ON. If it does then VATS is activated and needs 3 minutes or so to reset with the key OFF.
If the security light is not on, then VATS is not active and the no start problem is something else.