Are the Dana 36 and Dana 44 driveshafts the same, just with a different yoke?
Are they the same length?
Do the auto's have some kind of dampener on them that could be removed and used in a manual?

 

The D44 driveshaft is shorter than the D36 shaft.

The ZF6 spd cars use a 32 spline yoke. The DN 4+3 and 700R/4L60 autos use a 27 spline yoke.

So I actuall have converted 2 different D36 C4s to D44s rear ends... On my personal 84, I had to use the shorter driveshaft. On my friends 84, we were able to reuse the D36 driveshaft.... it was tight but worked.
Will

 

I did the D44 swap. IIRC I used the D44 shaft to get a measurement, got a driveline shop to cut me a fresh driveshaft to spec and with a fresh yoke, didn't need the dampner

 

I recently busted my transmission yoke, grenaded the front u-joint which in turn took the end off the driveshaft.

I noticed the d36 driveshafts were cheaper on ebay and was wondering if I could just buy the auto driveshaft and install the d44 yoke.

I just ended up buying a d44 driveshaft with the yoke, and then purchased 2 Spicer 5-3613x u-joints.

I did look into Denny's driveshaft but custom order and didn't want a 4 week wait. I currently run their nitrous ready halfshafts.

Damage happened when starting a burnout and grabbed second gear to crunch.

 

 

I did something like that being a bit too "hasty" at an intersection on a slight grade.

I blew the outer left-wheel half-shaft u-joint on my 1968 C3 with a "stoutly" built BB 427.

I had to push it into a parking lot and do a half shaft swap in a grocery store parking lot at dusk. I also had to pick up a bunch of parts laying on the road after this experience. The police were not amused with the collection of parts left on the road, they would not even help me push the darn car off the road without using their cars "Push bars" to do it.

I learned then to use only the very best solid U-joints. No more grease able joints on this particular car any more.

Does anybody make cryogenically treated U-Joints for muscle cars? If not I might spend the money and get a set of all my necessary u-joints done once and for all. I do keep a set of shafts with new joints on them after that experience.

Has anybody had any experience with the newer Carbon Fiber driveshafts? I was wondering if it might reduce the force slamming/hitting the joints and the differential. Are they worth the money or just stick with steel/aluminum? My drive shaft is probably the original but I have good u-joints on this area of my C3.

Thanks for the cool video, that similar sound really brought back a vivid memory of that day. Not a "good" feeling.

I wish you the best in resolving the issue on your car. Someday I hope to get my C4 to just be able to spin it's tires!

 

Oh, I've been through many halfshaft/spindles but never on the driveshaft. That was a first. I can only imagine it had the stock-style u-joints in it. The halfshaft u-joints are solid.