skidball

Well... Best guess from what test I have done with my meter and the way the car was acting from the first opti going out . No codes both times. Had a shop replace opti, icm, and water pump for 1400 dollars. It lasted 14 months. Soooooo. I figure it cost about a hundred dollars a month to drive the car ? lol. Warranty was 90 days parts and labor. Oh well. let ya know how it goes ? 92 lt1.

MatthewMiller

Here is a good test procedure to nail down whether you are seeing another opti failure vs an ICM or coil failure: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....test-the-icm-1. It's worth going through that before diving into another opti replacement. But if your tach signal and fuel injector signal are going out when the failure occurs, it's a good bet it's the opti sensor.

If it is the opti and you end up replacing it, it's worth searching for a better part. Typical replacement units are not good. There's a guy on ebay who sells rebuilt OEMs with Mitsubishi sensors, and he tests each one before he ships it. Also, the AIP units so far seem to be much better than average.

redcorvettedave

here is an ounce of prevention advice to do when replacing non- vented opti's

READ BELOW:
The old added precaution measure when replacing your "opti" was to replace your water pump
this was the standard question we would ask. "don"t forget to replace Your water pump" or "did you replace your water pump?
Well this was good advice when the OEM "Opti" lasted much longer and by the time you had to replace the Opti it would be a good thing to replace WP as well especaily with the non-vented Opti

but after replacing four Opti's with signs of moisture in each along with three water pumps in a short period of time I finally notice the drive coupler on the WP gear was stripped.. after replacing I have not had to replace OPTI "knock on wood" since! This is by far the longest lenght of time (miles) i have put on an aftermarket Opti.... since the OEM one.

MatthewMiller

One pound of prevention worth considering is a switch to a vented opti. Others here can tell you what that entails - I'm not sure.

Another ounce of prevention worth mentioning is that if/when you replace your opti, take the cap and intermediate plate off the metal housing. Then run a very thin bead of RTV around each (on the o-ring, really) to be sure the cap and plate are sealed to each other and the plate is sealed to the metal housing. This is probably especially important with a vented opti, since it will be under a bit of vacuum when running and could actually suck in moisture if not well sealed.

Drifter36

Skid
What brand(s) have failed on your car?

redcorvettedave

you got that right.....it takes a pound of prevention along with a pound of know how and dollars to switch over...I think Petris sells a vented opti for 92-94 vettes for $600 that's just for the part
I did all the RTV prevention on more than one opti.......did not make noticeable difference -between failures to me.....replacing opti's will always be a keep your finger cross repair......but like I said before after changing the water pump coupler drive with my present opti
this opti has lasted longer than the last three......maybe its luck or maybe its something to the ounce of advice I gave you.

Good Luck with your repair

skidball

Hello,
Thanks for the feed back. I have no idea what brand it is ? it's a remanufactured , basically change cap and rotor only. Everything else comes as a unit, including the harness. I think the car had the original on it before ? Water pump , icm, and coil is new. Notice some excessive corrosion on cap contacts. Everything is apart now, probably finish up next weekend ? Thanks again.

Drifter36

I found oil inside mine. The engine had a bad China wall leak and both the opti and water pump drive seals were leaking oil. All fixed now. If you are in there, I would recommend that you replace those seals
Bob

redcorvettedave

skidball

Hello,
Found trace amounts of oil in and around opti. Seals look good ? I will look into it.