C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Removing a complete rear end

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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:07 PM
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Default Removing a complete rear end

Pick your parts has the complete independent rear suspension d to d listed for 150.00. To remove the complete assembly what is involved? Remove drive shaft, brake lines, unbolt shocks and then just a few bolts on the housing? I'm hoping that it is straight forward as I hate working under the cars there as they usually are in filthy conditions and not safely supported. They always remove the exhaust due to the cats.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:41 PM
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Remove the shocks, the four trailing arms, sway bar links, and the brake line (parking brake too). The put some sort of support underneath it. Remove the two c-beam bolts and remove the U-joint clamps. Now remove the two mounting bolts. Make sure its supported because at this point the mounting bolts were the only thing holding it on. This should let the entire rear end come out disc to disc.

Last edited by CMiller95; Nov 30, 2017 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CMiller95
Remove the shocks, the four trailing arms, sway bar links, and the brake line (parking brake too). The put some sort of support underneath it. Remove the two c-beam bolts and remove the U-joint clamps. Now remove the two mounting bolts. Make sure its supported because at this point the mounting bolts were the only thing holding it on. This should let the entire rear end come out disc to disc.
I'm lazy and have a short attention span so I want it out ASAP with the least amount of tools/trouble/time.

I remove the trailing arm brackets; three bolts, no nuts to hold...one socket on a cordless impact gun; bam, bam, bam and one side is off. Same for the other side. Fast.

I leave the driveshaft on the diff, but remove the two front C-beam bolts from the trans.

Shocks, sway bar endlinks

I remove calipers (two bolts) which takes care of all brake lines and cables (late car) and you lose no fluid...easy.

Last, position the floor jack, get the two batwing bolts and drop and pull out the rear, the entire rear assy....cbeam, driveshaft and all.

Look! I didn't even get side tracked one time!


.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; Nov 30, 2017 at 05:53 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 06:37 PM
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Thank you for the replies. I want the calipers as those are included in the price, but I can cut the lines easy enough. I will take the drive shaft too, so hopefully I can get away with leaving that attached. I was hoping it came out clean and didn't have to deal with compressing those leaf springs.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by topfuel67
Thank you for the replies. I want the calipers as those are included in the price, but I can cut the lines easy enough. I will take the drive shaft too, so hopefully I can get away with leaving that attached. I was hoping it came out clean and didn't have to deal with compressing those leaf springs.
One thing that will really help is getting a hold of a FSM (factory service manual). It will show you step by step what you have to do and the proper torque values of each nut and bolt.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by topfuel67
Thank you for the replies. I want the calipers as those are included in the price, but I can cut the lines easy enough. I will take the drive shaft too, so hopefully I can get away with leaving that attached. I was hoping it came out clean and didn't have to deal with compressing those leaf springs.
Nope. When you unbolt the shocks the suspension will extend until the knuckles hit the axle shafts and that's as far as it will go. Easy.
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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I'm lazy and have a short attention span so I want it out ASAP with the least amount of tools/trouble/time.

Look! I didn't even get side tracked one time!
The hell you didn't!!!!
Wheres the beer?!!
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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 09:50 PM
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^^^^

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