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C4 (L98) Parts help

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Old 12-13-2017, 09:01 AM
  #41  
WVZR-1
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Snapshot 1 - what location on car? just a cover on a front?

Snapshot 2 - looks like a 17SI alternator frame

Snapshot 3 - I see the flat on the control arm shaft is early C4

Snapshot 4 - SPID for the '95 VIN

Snapshot 5 - looks to be the AIR style of '85

Snapshot 6 - What location on car? This caliper looks to be from a later C4 but that's a conversion that was often done.

Snapshot 7 - looks to be pulley, shield and fan expected on 17SI

Snapshot 8 - off no significance

Snapshot 9 - Water pump pulley for '85 - '87

There's enough maybe for me to reassure myself that when I mentioned '85 I believe the chassis is '85. The calipers are confusing but then it's a quite modified car.

I showed you where to get the engine ID so I doubt I can help you more. The radiator is no issue HD cooling option for '85 thru '89 would do well and fit with maybe only a purchase of new cushions. The alternator, rather than just doing a wild guess on the 17SI I'd get the ID off of the block to confirm my thoughts on an '85. I'd make sure I needed an alternator 1st.

Last edited by WVZR-1; 12-13-2017 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:46 AM
  #42  
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Just my 2 cents as someone who owns 2 1985s-that engine bay looks very much like a 1985 engine bay. I can't speak to the rest of the car, but my guess is that someone started with a 1985 chassis and motor and put parts from other years onto it. The body is definitely 1990+. Those calipers appear to be aftermarket to me, I doubt they'll tell you anything. I'm fairly certain your alternator is from a 1985, although it appears to be an aftermarket replacement.

Once you get everything figured out, I'd say that it's probably a very good car. Sure, nothing matches, but it sounds like the motor is in decent condition.

Welcome to the world of C4 Corvettes! It's fun, exciting, and sometimes frustrating. It seems like you've got a pretty decent car on your hands, especially if your goal is to drive it and not to have a 100% original car. Hope she gives you many years of enjoyment.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:49 AM
  #43  
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BTW, this should help you decipher the codes in the storage compartment from shot #4. Keep in mind, of course, that those storage bins are pretty easy to swap out and so that sticker MAY not be the original for the car.

http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C4RPOcodes.html
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:23 AM
  #44  
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His exhaust manifolds have an odd feature on top that is not on mine. Also, they do not have the heat shields on them.

Here is a pic of mine and the best I have of the alternator at this time.




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Old 12-13-2017, 10:25 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Randy M View Post
His exhaust manifolds have an odd feature on top that is not on mine.
You're right-could be aftermarket? They don't look like mine either.
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:37 AM
  #46  
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OP - I believe there's many positives to this buy. Most who do the change to later C4 body panels have to do 'PAINT TO MATCH' - looking at the '95 SPID the car is BLACK so you've maybe got original paint. It's not as difficult a predicament as maybe one could think. It's registered so there's no issues there. How frequently does it require safety inspections?

Some might say that not having the OPTI of the '95 is enough of a +!!

If the car runs and drives with only a charging problem you correct that, DRIVE and ENJOY!!!

What actually is the problem with the radiator?

The only other maybe concern could be the operation of the windows and locks. If this was a well thought out swap of parts maybe they used only the later shells and did wiring to the early harnesses.
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:57 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1 View Post
OP - I believe there's many positives to this buy. Most who do the change to later C4 body panels have to do 'PAINT TO MATCH' - looking at the '95 SPID the car is BLACK so you've maybe got original paint. It's not as difficult a predicament as maybe one could think. It's registered so there's no issues there. How frequently does it require safety inspections?

Some might say that not having the OPTI of the '95 is enough of a +!!

If the car runs and drives with only a charging problem you correct that, DRIVE and ENJOY!!!

What actually is the problem with the radiator?

The only other maybe concern could be the operation of the windows and locks. If this was a well thought out swap of parts maybe they used only the later shells and did wiring to the early harnesses.
The later body style had some advantages (such as the ability to change the tail lights without TAKING THE BUMPER OFF!!!)

The early C4 engine (especially the 85) has an advantage of being a little easier to work on (in my experience, anyway) and the forged iron pistons instead of cast-that engine is TOUGH. Also, while more fragile, I think the older style dash has a cool look while the later C4 looks a little more generic (no offense to anyone who likes the later ones-just not my taste).

Radiator is a pretty easy job. I'd like to know what's wrong with it, too-it might be something you can fix! If it's not cooling very well, these cars are notorious for getting junk from the road sucked up in between the radiator and condensor.
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:16 PM
  #48  
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Not the best photo, but thought I'd go ahead and share a pic of my engine (1985) to help give you reference to what a stock one looks like under the hood:


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Old 12-13-2017, 12:32 PM
  #49  
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To Bfenty
The image that you send of your engine is a thing of beauty in my eyes! Thats what i want my engine to look like, clean and shiny like that. but when she starts to run no issues i will go through that route. By the looks of what i am seeing and reading i am looking for an alternator from a 1985 model? Thats great, long as i have identified what part i need i can progress forward!

To WVZR-1

The car was a none starter when i bought it, full of electrical issues. i will list them below;

- Dead Battery (Fixed,New one installed)
- Loose Battery cable fixings (Fixed, Replaced adaptors)
- Leaking Radiator (Unsure, I removed the radiator myself, cleaned it filled with rust and re applied, need to do further tests before confirm if fixed due to loose connection)
- Alternator (Lights go dim, car lost power then died and now wont start, while driving i noticed the new battery level was slowly decreasing so believe to be alternator)
- Air leak in engine creating in correct fuel mixtures
- No air bags (Though not 100% if they had them but seems odd if they didnt)
- No hand brake cable at all
- Can smell fuel in car while driving so makes me ill when driving.
- Rear Break lights out & the rear lights dont work either when turn lights on.

Those are the issues i noticed after driving the car for over 1 hour.

Am sure when shes back up on the road and sorted more will come, but i dont mind fixing because i am car mad but i unfortunately dont know much about fixing engines. so when problem is identified and i have the correct part i am more then capable of installing myself

more then likely more issues to come.
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:43 PM
  #50  
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The electrical could certainly be somewhat of a nightmare to resolve. Not impossible but difficult. Do windows and locks work? You have one door panel off ... why?

There should be a shop that can check your alternator off of the car. Likely done as a no-charge if you buy something from them. I'd think that even in the UK 17SI Delcotron parts should be available.

An '85 chassis wouldn't have air-bags - that was one reason I asked about registration and safety inspections. The '95 would have had 2.

How did you accomplish a safet inspection with no e-brake. I thought certainly that required in the UK and likely some additional lamps that I didn't see in your snapshots.
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:18 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Davies View Post
To Bfenty
The image that you send of your engine is a thing of beauty in my eyes! Thats what i want my engine to look like, clean and shiny like that. but when she starts to run no issues i will go through that route. By the looks of what i am seeing and reading i am looking for an alternator from a 1985 model? Thats great, long as i have identified what part i need i can progress forward!

To WVZR-1

The car was a none starter when i bought it, full of electrical issues. i will list them below;

- Dead Battery (Fixed,New one installed)
- Loose Battery cable fixings (Fixed, Replaced adaptors)
- Leaking Radiator (Unsure, I removed the radiator myself, cleaned it filled with rust and re applied, need to do further tests before confirm if fixed due to loose connection)
- Alternator (Lights go dim, car lost power then died and now wont start, while driving i noticed the new battery level was slowly decreasing so believe to be alternator)
- Air leak in engine creating in correct fuel mixtures
- No air bags (Though not 100% if they had them but seems odd if they didnt)
- No hand brake cable at all
- Can smell fuel in car while driving so makes me ill when driving.
- Rear Break lights out & the rear lights dont work either when turn lights on.

Those are the issues i noticed after driving the car for over 1 hour.

Am sure when shes back up on the road and sorted more will come, but i dont mind fixing because i am car mad but i unfortunately dont know much about fixing engines. so when problem is identified and i have the correct part i am more then capable of installing myself

more then likely more issues to come.
I've found it's more helpful to start threads for single issues as opposed to a single thread for all issues-might be worth starting one for your engine issues specifically (the rough running due to air leak and smelling fuel).

Off the top of my head, though, I'd start by pulling spark plugs and seeing what they tell you. Injectors are also a major pain point on these cars, and pulling spark plugs will tell you a lot about which cylinders are causing your problems. I had 3 injectors sticking when I first got my car, and you could smell the fuel from inside the cabin. The spark plugs were black. New injectors and the problem went completely away. Not sure how you determined it was a vacuum leak, but it would be worth at least having a look at the plugs anyway...

Also, looks like you have a cold start injector on there, which eliminates the '89 L98 as the motor you have. Could still be '85-'88 based on just that fact (though I still strongly suspect an '85).
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:26 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Randy M View Post
His exhaust manifolds have an odd feature on top that is not on mine. Also, they do not have the heat shields on them.
Those are after-market exhaust headers, with no AIR tubes. The AIR pump is still on the engine, but not connected. Probably no internal parts in it, but retained so the original serpentine belt could be used. Probably no catalytic converter in the exhaust.

Somebody did a HUGE amount of work on this car!! To return it to original (whatever that is) would be a monumental project!!!

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Old 12-13-2017, 02:39 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1 View Post
The electrical could certainly be somewhat of a nightmare to resolve. Not impossible but difficult. Do windows and locks work? You have one door panel off ... why?

There should be a shop that can check your alternator off of the car. Likely done as a no-charge if you buy something from them. I'd think that even in the UK 17SI Delcotron parts should be available.

An '85 chassis wouldn't have air-bags - that was one reason I asked about registration and safety inspections. The '95 would have had 2.

How did you accomplish a safet inspection with no e-brake. I thought certainly that required in the UK and likely some additional lamps that I didn't see in your snapshots.
I legit believe that the car went through an Shady MOT test just to secure the sale. looking at the how it arrived there is NO WAY it would have passed. hazards dont work, half the brake lights out and faulty battery with no hand brake... there was bird seed and animals living in the car when it arrived (Apparently in good condition) I spent a full day removing the seats and all the panels to clean them. i didnt apply that panel back on because it was a after market remould and i want the official one to replace it.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:03 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1 View Post
Your base car I'd say is an '85,

Someone did some very unusual parts swaps and the change of the VIN tag in the windshield.
Since the windshield VIN, the door tag, and the SPI label all show the same '95 serial number, I'm going to guess this is a '95 with an '85 front clip. I can't imagine someone going to so much trouble as to make those labels match, and they appear to be un-molested. Look for frame repair in the engine compartment.

What p/n's do you have on the upper front control ("A") arms. The '85 and '95 are not the same. Brembo front brakes is another clue that some serious work was done! Do the front wheel hubs have ABS sensors on the inside of the steering knuckles?

Someone may need to provide a photo of these sensors.

WVZR-1 will know the p/n's for the "A" arms.

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Old 12-13-2017, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy View Post
Since the windshield VIN, the door tag, and the SPI label all show the same '95 serial number, I'm going to guess this is a '95 with an '85 front clip. I can't imagine someone going to so much trouble as to make those labels match, and they appear to be un-molested. Look for frame repair in the engine compartment.

What p/n's do you have on the upper front control ("A") arms. The '85 and '95 are not the same. Brembo front brakes is another clue that some serious work was done! Do the front wheel hubs have ABS sensors on the inside of the steering knuckles?

Someone may need to provide a photo of these sensors.

WVZR-1 will know the p/n's for the "A" arms.

With all the Facts Lined up in a row it is a Very Early 86 ABS was pulled (see post 20 photo) Pre 86 Master installed (see post 3)and as a comment a Previous Question asked does it have the ABS Sensors, that would Nail it whether a 85 or 86, No Air Bag, Flat Digital Dash, many things under Hood Confirm this, Main Confusion the VIN if Memory Serves the VIN Plates in the First few years had the plain Stamped Plates(No Bar Code) But I to Agree to change all these Plates a Stickers would be a Big undertaking.

If it is Truly a 95 I would buy parts for a 85/86 because those are major parts

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Old 12-13-2017, 04:26 PM
  #56  
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There is a partial vin# stamped in the face of the frame behind the left front wheel.The car looks mostly like an 85 with later front and rear bumpers.www.rockauto.com will export parts but I donít know anything about the extra taxes involved.
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:50 PM
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Cool car, i'd stick with it just because of it's story, doesn't look to be in too bad of shape depending on what you paid.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:01 PM
  #58  
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Am i right in thinking that i need a replacement "Bosch AL556X Alternator" ?

or maybe this one? Im not 100%

Amazon Amazon

Last edited by Jordan Davies; 12-13-2017 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jordan Davies View Post
Am i right in thinking that i need a replacement "Bosch AL556X Alternator" ?

or maybe this one? Im not 100%

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUFF-STUFF-...rds=tuff+stuff
before you go pulling the Alternator have you checked your fuses, make sure that all is well on the car side of charging. go to You tube there are many Videos
you may be able to jump start your alternator if it has been inactive for a while it is explained in one of the Videos

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+gm+alternator

Last edited by s carter; 12-13-2017 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter View Post
before you go pulling the Alternator have you checked your fuses, make sure that all is well on the car side of charging. go to You tube there are many Videos
I agree. It's definitely worth spending some time troubleshooting the alternator as its not going to be easy to make sure you're getting the correct replacement. I've already been down this road on my own '85.
The alternator is a 17si case size...the largest GM made. It was only used on the Corvette, a Cadillac (I think) and heavy duty trucks with snow plow package. The thing is, you can't easily make the smaller case fit and it's hard to find out what case size they are when ordering online.
I wound up just throwing some new brushes and diodes at mine and it was good to go.
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