suspension rebuild - work in progress -
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
suspension rebuild - work in progress -
here's a project I've been wanting to do for several years now - finally got around to starting it...
took a couple days to press out the bushing and ball joints. some say you can do it without a press, but it gave my 20 ton a workout. any of you guys want these - FREE, just pay S&H -
some "work in progress" shots - i'm about half way through the piece/part rebuild. I bought just about everything from an on-line salvage yard and fleabay - mostly 87 parts - a few 84. I opted to go this route since I'll have less down time on my 85 -
below - the lower control arm on the right is freshly bead blasted, the upper on the left is lightly polished and sealed, using wenol compound with 0000 steelwool -
as I said, about half way - figure i'll start the actual rebuild on the front end in a couple weeks. in case anyone wants to know why I have red and black bushings, well, i didn't buy a complete master kit, but took advantage of online pricing and sales on individual kits. i saved over $80, and for $80, i wouldn't give a rats-**** if they were pink and blue -
took a couple days to press out the bushing and ball joints. some say you can do it without a press, but it gave my 20 ton a workout. any of you guys want these - FREE, just pay S&H -
some "work in progress" shots - i'm about half way through the piece/part rebuild. I bought just about everything from an on-line salvage yard and fleabay - mostly 87 parts - a few 84. I opted to go this route since I'll have less down time on my 85 -
below - the lower control arm on the right is freshly bead blasted, the upper on the left is lightly polished and sealed, using wenol compound with 0000 steelwool -
as I said, about half way - figure i'll start the actual rebuild on the front end in a couple weeks. in case anyone wants to know why I have red and black bushings, well, i didn't buy a complete master kit, but took advantage of online pricing and sales on individual kits. i saved over $80, and for $80, i wouldn't give a rats-**** if they were pink and blue -
Last edited by Joe C; 12-21-2017 at 03:45 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Joe C:
Charles.rogers1 (12-18-2017),
L98-C4-HI (12-21-2017)
#4
Safety Car
Joe
Looking good! I've done my rear so I know a little of what you've run into. I will suggest if you like those curvy country roads to check out the Banski suspension package. Even if you have a tight suspension on your car, it was unbelievable how well it handles those roads since doing the upgrade to my 86 last winter. I get nothing out of the recommendation, they work for me though so passing it along.
Looking good! I've done my rear so I know a little of what you've run into. I will suggest if you like those curvy country roads to check out the Banski suspension package. Even if you have a tight suspension on your car, it was unbelievable how well it handles those roads since doing the upgrade to my 86 last winter. I get nothing out of the recommendation, they work for me though so passing it along.
#6
Instructor
front end
Looks good! just did the front end on my 90, ride quality is great! and i used plenty of poly lube. doing rear end soon.
#7
im right behind you guys!
this just arrived. joe, are you thinking that an arbour press wouldnt work?
this just arrived. joe, are you thinking that an arbour press wouldnt work?
#9
Race Director
Thread Starter
I have a one ton arbor, and i'm thinking most of the suspension parts might be too big and too awkward to use with any success, and I don't think one or two thousand pounds will handle it. don't really know - didn't tried it. if you have an arbor, all you can do is give it a shot. if you don't have an arbor, I wouldn't buy one just for the suspension work - I honestly don't think it can handle the job.
Last edited by Joe C; 12-20-2017 at 01:58 AM.
#11
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When I did mine (about 10 years ago) I didnt have some of the fancy tools I have now. I used a big C clamp in a vise to get them out. Worked well. I know people have also used a torch to burn the rubber out.
The following users liked this post:
L98-C4-HI (12-21-2017)
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
I saw a pic of someone using a two-jaw puller to remove the upper bushings and pivot bar - clamped the thing down to a workbench with some homemade fixture. again, it's all about creativity....
a while back, I got "creative" and convinced the wife I needed a press -
Last edited by Joe C; 12-21-2017 at 11:16 AM.
#15
Racer
- I guess it's how creative you can get. I saw some pics over on a miata forum that shows a guy using an arbor press to remove bushings, so maybe that will work - ??? burning them out -- with my luck i'd burn down the friggin house -
I saw a pic of someone using a two-jaw puller to remove the upper bushings and pivot bar - clamped the thing down to a workbench with some homemade fixture. again, it's all about creativity....
a while back, I got "creative" and convinced the wife I need a press -
I saw a pic of someone using a two-jaw puller to remove the upper bushings and pivot bar - clamped the thing down to a workbench with some homemade fixture. again, it's all about creativity....
a while back, I got "creative" and convinced the wife I need a press -
#16
Race Director
Thread Starter
I found using a utility knife a bit cumbersome. I had an old fish filleting knife that worked like a champ. had to keep sharpening it, but it seemed to work better than the utility knife.
once the flanges are removed, the bushings press out without much effort. as Kubs posted, I imagine a large c-clamp would work, or maybe a two-jaw bearing puller. the new bushing are two piece, and go in with little effort. at best, maybe a bench vice for the center sleeve.
Last edited by Joe C; 12-20-2017 at 01:17 PM.
#17
Race Director
Thread Starter
I hear ya, but that wouldn't be the end of it - now you have to explain "stupidity" to the wife. that never goes well....
#18
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on the rear control arms, remove one or both (rubber) flanges from the original bushings. here's a pic I found on-line -
I found using a utility knife a bit cumbersome. I had an old fish fillet knife that worked like a champ. had to keep sharpening it, but it seemed to work better than the utility knife.
once the flanges are removed, the bushings press out without much effort. as Kubs posted, I imagine a large c-clamp would work, or maybe a two-jaw bearing puller. the new bushing are two piece, and go in with little effort. at best, maybe a bench vice for the center sleeve.
I found using a utility knife a bit cumbersome. I had an old fish fillet knife that worked like a champ. had to keep sharpening it, but it seemed to work better than the utility knife.
once the flanges are removed, the bushings press out without much effort. as Kubs posted, I imagine a large c-clamp would work, or maybe a two-jaw bearing puller. the new bushing are two piece, and go in with little effort. at best, maybe a bench vice for the center sleeve.
#19
Race Director
Thread Starter