C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1985 burning oil

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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 01:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
Ok. Thing is that it doesn’t really go down at idle. Not sure what that means.
Means youre OK

Only time to worry is when you see idle pressures really dropping into the teens or you see it read 80psi (which means the switch is bad, 80 is max readout).
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 02:06 PM
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i have a SUPER HOT oil issue. it gets to 255F / 124C

i think its because the car doesnt have an oil cooler installed.

my coolant temp is perfectly normal.

when the oil is HOT like that and i come to an idle, like at a red light, oil pressure can drop to as low as 25.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:24 PM
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Ok thanks guys. Just doing a sanity check. Is it true that as long as oil pressure is good, then you have enough oil in the system? My goal isn’t to run with the least oil possible, but to monitor oil pressure and if it starts to drop, then to check oil level. Or do I just need to pull the dipstick every couple days? I don’t just blindly trust anything to work on this car.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:01 PM
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no! monitor the oil level if u r using 1qt/1000 miles.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:02 PM
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also, is there a reason u should do the springs?

why not just 20$ for valve seals and a day and be done?
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
also, is there a reason u should do the springs?

why not just 20$ for valve seals and a day and be done?
because the next time I will have a whole day I can devote to my car may be months away. Make no mistake-I will get this done. It's just a question of how long from now that will be. I don't want to not be able to drive my car for a few months, if all I have to do is monitor the oil level!
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:38 PM
  #27  
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Sorry, I forgot to mention that the engine should to be at least warm. Typically forged piston may have higher cylinder bore to piston skirt clearance. If there loose you can hear pistons scuffing. My service manual says cast pistons in a 85 vette. I have a 85 engine on my garage fl

I've done them the compression test cold and warm, it makes a different.

How much blow-by are you getting out the valve cover PCV breather

The rods are forged steel.

Last edited by Mike Holmen; Jan 29, 2018 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:44 PM
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I would do springs at the same time. They have to come off to do the seals and they are likely tired at 100+K miles. They are pretty cheap
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 02:00 PM
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A lot of people are mentioning valve seals. The common reason oil leaks past seals is because of valveguide wear. This is something that can't be repaired in your garage. I might have missed it, but how many miles does your motor have? You might head your heads freshened up.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
so I got some time with my car today, fixed a few issues that had been bugging me, and checked the oil. It’s at “add” after about 1k miles. I checked it with the engine cold-dumb question but that’s the right time to check oil level, right?

I swapped per spark plugs when I did the oil last. They were a little black and gunked up. Now I’m thinking that may have been oil on them.

Ive not had any issues with the car driving-the engine pulls hard and performs just like I’d expect. I get some light colored smoke from the tailpipe when I cold start her, but she starts right up without issues and doesn’t smoke after warming up a little. There’s never any black smoke and no smells that concern me. Oil pressure is 50-60 psi usually while driving (usually around 51-52).

Coolant shows no signs of oil in it.

Thoughts? What should I check/do about this?
EDIT to say that the oil is pretty dark for 1k miles. It was pretty dark before the oil change though too, so it could be leftover impurities being cleaned out of the system. Just thought it worth mentioning. Definitely still looks like driveable oil, just darker than I’d expect.
The "old way" was to just pull the oil fill cap off, hold your hand over the hole and see if pressure built, that's called blow by. If you have no blow by add some lucas oil stabilizer and keep havin' fun.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
I've never researched the subject, nor have I had an 84 or 85 Corvette engine opened up, but I would be VERY surprised to find forged pistons in a 205 0r 230 HP 9.5:1 engine.


These engines have EST, pressed pins, 2 bolt mains, and are installed in 3,200 lb vehicles with no towing capacity that can't load the engine very highly for any real duration. There's no valid engineering reason to spend the money to install "forged" pistons in these engines. So I highly doubt they did.
You would be incorrect. 84-85 have flat top forged pistons from TRW with a trough across the top. They were leftover parts from the L82/Shark engine.

Factory manuals are incorrect on this subject for 84 and 85.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 02:58 PM
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iron head 86 do not have these?
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 03:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
iron head 86 do not have these?
Negative. 86E have cast pistons.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 04:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 383vett
A lot of people are mentioning valve seals. The common reason oil leaks past seals is because of valveguide wear. This is something that can't be repaired in your garage. I might have missed it, but how many miles does your motor have? You might head your heads freshened up.
87K miles. What does 'freshening up' the heads do? having them re-machined?
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 04:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by vader86
You would be incorrect. 84-85 have flat top forged pistons from TRW.


per my "Corvette 1984 Specifications" book, they are "Impact Forged Aluminum, 579 g. (20.4 oz.)"

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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 05:27 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
87K miles. What does 'freshening up' the heads do? having them re-machined?
New valveguides, seals, valve job. Any burnt valves replaced. Worn springs, retainers, keepers replaced. Heads surfaced flat.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 08:07 PM
  #37  
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Also might not hurt to install a catch can between the pcv valve and the intake.

Might see more of the missing oil vs wondering.

Valve seals are likely toast tho, my 84 sent out little smoke signals at startup @103k.

​​​​​​​Valve seals are easy, just need an air compressor and a hose like you would use for a leak down test to keep the valves in place.
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Old Jan 31, 2018 | 06:32 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
I've never researched the subject, nor have I had an 84 or 85 Corvette engine opened up, but I would be VERY surprised to find forged pistons in a 205 0r 230 HP 9.5:1 engine.


These engines have EST, pressed pins, 2 bolt mains, and are installed in 3,200 lb vehicles with no towing capacity that can't load the engine very highly for any real duration. There's no valid engineering reason to spend the money to install "forged" pistons in these engines. So I highly doubt they did.
Well i found my 85 had TRW forged pistons when i removed thr engine, was the original engine ... overkill for what it was but they did do it.

Went to a four bolt block scat forged 383 stroker crank and scat forged rods and forged pistons, still have the old engine in pieces.
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Old Jan 31, 2018 | 02:52 PM
  #39  
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Well I found some of my missing oil anyway


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Old Jan 31, 2018 | 03:09 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
There were almost 100,000 84 and 85 Corvettes produced. That is 800,000 pistons. Kind of hard to believe the "left over parts" explanation.

Can you please cite a source for this info? Thanks.
I'm guessing here but I'm betting the EQUIPMENT was leftover, not the parts. So it was easier to keep making them the way they were already making them than to design a new process.
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