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Ok. Thing is that it doesn’t really go down at idle. Not sure what that means.
Means youre OK
Only time to worry is when you see idle pressures really dropping into the teens or you see it read 80psi (which means the switch is bad, 80 is max readout).
Ok thanks guys. Just doing a sanity check. Is it true that as long as oil pressure is good, then you have enough oil in the system? My goal isn’t to run with the least oil possible, but to monitor oil pressure and if it starts to drop, then to check oil level. Or do I just need to pull the dipstick every couple days? I don’t just blindly trust anything to work on this car.
why not just 20$ for valve seals and a day and be done?
because the next time I will have a whole day I can devote to my car may be months away. Make no mistake-I will get this done. It's just a question of how long from now that will be. I don't want to not be able to drive my car for a few months, if all I have to do is monitor the oil level!
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the engine should to be at least warm. Typically forged piston may have higher cylinder bore to piston skirt clearance. If there loose you can hear pistons scuffing. My service manual says cast pistons in a 85 vette. I have a 85 engine on my garage fl
I've done them the compression test cold and warm, it makes a different.
How much blow-by are you getting out the valve cover PCV breather
The rods are forged steel.
Last edited by Mike Holmen; Jan 29, 2018 at 05:50 PM.
A lot of people are mentioning valve seals. The common reason oil leaks past seals is because of valveguide wear. This is something that can't be repaired in your garage. I might have missed it, but how many miles does your motor have? You might head your heads freshened up.
so I got some time with my car today, fixed a few issues that had been bugging me, and checked the oil. It’s at “add” after about 1k miles. I checked it with the engine cold-dumb question but that’s the right time to check oil level, right?
I swapped per spark plugs when I did the oil last. They were a little black and gunked up. Now I’m thinking that may have been oil on them.
Ive not had any issues with the car driving-the engine pulls hard and performs just like I’d expect. I get some light colored smoke from the tailpipe when I cold start her, but she starts right up without issues and doesn’t smoke after warming up a little. There’s never any black smoke and no smells that concern me. Oil pressure is 50-60 psi usually while driving (usually around 51-52).
Coolant shows no signs of oil in it.
Thoughts? What should I check/do about this?
EDIT to say that the oil is pretty dark for 1k miles. It was pretty dark before the oil change though too, so it could be leftover impurities being cleaned out of the system. Just thought it worth mentioning. Definitely still looks like driveable oil, just darker than I’d expect.
The "old way" was to just pull the oil fill cap off, hold your hand over the hole and see if pressure built, that's called blow by. If you have no blow by add some lucas oil stabilizer and keep havin' fun.
I've never researched the subject, nor have I had an 84 or 85 Corvette engine opened up, but I would be VERY surprised to find forged pistons in a 205 0r 230 HP 9.5:1 engine.
These engines have EST, pressed pins, 2 bolt mains, and are installed in 3,200 lb vehicles with no towing capacity that can't load the engine very highly for any real duration. There's no valid engineering reason to spend the money to install "forged" pistons in these engines. So I highly doubt they did.
You would be incorrect. 84-85 have flat top forged pistons from TRW with a trough across the top. They were leftover parts from the L82/Shark engine.
Factory manuals are incorrect on this subject for 84 and 85.
A lot of people are mentioning valve seals. The common reason oil leaks past seals is because of valveguide wear. This is something that can't be repaired in your garage. I might have missed it, but how many miles does your motor have? You might head your heads freshened up.
87K miles. What does 'freshening up' the heads do? having them re-machined?
I've never researched the subject, nor have I had an 84 or 85 Corvette engine opened up, but I would be VERY surprised to find forged pistons in a 205 0r 230 HP 9.5:1 engine.
These engines have EST, pressed pins, 2 bolt mains, and are installed in 3,200 lb vehicles with no towing capacity that can't load the engine very highly for any real duration. There's no valid engineering reason to spend the money to install "forged" pistons in these engines. So I highly doubt they did.
Well i found my 85 had TRW forged pistons when i removed thr engine, was the original engine ... overkill for what it was but they did do it.
Went to a four bolt block scat forged 383 stroker crank and scat forged rods and forged pistons, still have the old engine in pieces.
There were almost 100,000 84 and 85 Corvettes produced. That is 800,000 pistons. Kind of hard to believe the "left over parts" explanation.
Can you please cite a source for this info? Thanks.
I'm guessing here but I'm betting the EQUIPMENT was leftover, not the parts. So it was easier to keep making them the way they were already making them than to design a new process.