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Yeah on my Corvette I want the job done RIGHT, so I'm willing to let the right person do the job. I don't know if I'll EVER get to the point of rebuilding heads myself-maybe someday but not soon. I need to get the leakdown test done for sure. I've not found a mechanic in my area that I'm comfortable taking the car to for anything major-it's not that they're shady it's that this car requires a little more finesse than just throwing parts at it in a specific order as defined by a shop manual.
THE REASON FOR NOT OVERFILLING THE CRANKCASE IS this. (ssorry about the caps). Sometimes a crankcase can be so overfilled, the crank actually hits the oil. it can cause foaming/sudsing which is difficult for the pump to pick up or when it does, its not enough oil. It can cause oil starvation. I don't know if this is indded the truth but was told that way back in the 60s. It kinda made sense to me so just passing it along.
THE REASON FOR NOT OVERFILLING THE CRANKCASE IS this. (ssorry about the caps). Sometimes a crankcase can be so overfilled, the crank actually hits the oil. it can cause foaming/sudsing which is difficult for the pump to pick up or when it does, its not enough oil. It can cause oil starvation. I don't know if this is indded the truth but was told that way back in the 60s. It kinda made sense to me so just passing it along.
you are 100% correct ghoast. on my oilproperties we have engine skids (one is a 350 chev, other is 5.9 cummins, other is 4.3 v6) they all have external sight glasses to see the oil level. we had a situation where an older fellow who had poor vision kept putting too much oil into both engines and then when the younger operator came back on shift he kept finding foam sitting on top of the oil in the siteglass above the full mark!
10w30 Mobil 1. Anyone have a good guide to doing valve guide seals? I can google but I tend to like having an endorsement of a guide
I am using PENRITE 15w60 synthetic oil in my 85, these engines recommend 20W50 which is a lot thicker. Next time you change the oil see if you can get 15W40, that viscosity thicker oil should reduce your oil consumption.
10w30 means 10 viscosity W = winter and 30 viscosity = hot.
Modern cars use 5w20 to reduce drag due to lower viscosity.
Went to check the oil level today and while it's above the add mark, it's much closer to 'add' than it is to 'full'. And that's with maybe 200 miles on it since I added a quart.
I'm definitely going to be trying some higher viscosity and also a high-mileage oil that should help the seals.
Thing is, it STILL isn't really showing any signs of having issues that would lead to oil loss. There really isn't any smoke from the tailpipe, and the engine runs very well. I've been watching the garage floor to see if the marks there are getting bigger and they really aren't. I simply don't see where it could be going. Oil pressure has remained 50-60 PSI constantly.
Thing is, it STILL isn't really showing any signs of having issues that would lead to oil loss. There really isn't any smoke from the tailpipe, and the engine runs very well. I've been watching the garage floor to see if the marks there are getting bigger and they really aren't. I simply don't see where it could be going. Oil pressure has remained 50-60 PSI constantly.
Hey BF, You could be burning it without noticiple smoke out the back. As mentioned, my '62 only got 500 miles to a quart with no smoke. 327/340 hp ran strong. Occasionally had a fouled plug if I remember. Switching from leaded hi-test to Amoco white (unleaded) made the plugs last much longer before fouling.