Completely dead!!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,982
Likes: 1,072
From: Lansing MI
For many years I had a "green ****" battery disconnect switch on my 85. (Mostly for NCRS purposes to comply with Fire Marshal regulations for indoor events). Id hook my meter on each side of the switch, in the milliamp position. I'd wait for the car to settle down (dome lights go out and burn off complete) then open the switch and read the meter. Never blew the fuse in my meter.
I am not condoning the use of battery disconnect switches. But for $10 bucks at vatozone for one, it's an easy way to do the milliamp test without frying your meter.
I am not condoning the use of battery disconnect switches. But for $10 bucks at vatozone for one, it's an easy way to do the milliamp test without frying your meter.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 14,523
Likes: 24
From: Washington County, South UTAH
Do not do this, when the battery is connected it dampens the voltage spikes generated by the alternator which can damage electronic devices. If you disconnect the battery you run the rick of damaging electronic equipment in your car. An easy way to see if the alternator is working is to watch the volt meter when the car is running and note the reading, then disconnect the connector on the alternator that powers the field. That will be the snap in connection on the side of the alternator. If the volt meter drops the alternator is working. You can probably hear the difference between connected and not connected on engine load.
FYI the volt readings with a functioning alternator should be around 13.5 to 14.5. If it is not functioning it will be 12 or lower.
FYI the volt readings with a functioning alternator should be around 13.5 to 14.5. If it is not functioning it will be 12 or lower.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 374
Likes: 17
From: Dubai
Updates: took the car to the electrician shop -since I still don’t have the proper tools n equipment to diy it myself-
alternator, terminals. Starter...etc all working properly according to him , he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
and where I can find a full replacement kit for that?
alternator, terminals. Starter...etc all working properly according to him , he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
and where I can find a full replacement kit for that?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 164
From: Nashville TN
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
Unfortunately, this may result in very misleading results. You'll get something in excess of 3 Amps for about 30 seconds or so. If you have an amp meter (DVM) that automatically switches between hi amp and lo amp, you might get away with this technique, but most meters can't do that. You want to see something less than 0.050 A (50 mA) for a residual current drain.
If your meter cannot automatically switch from hi amp to lo amp, and you set your meter on the lo amp scale, you'll blow the internal fuse in the meter when you use Bfenty's procedure.
There is a way to do this, but it's a bit more complex, and I haven't found a YouTube video that does it right.
If your meter cannot automatically switch from hi amp to lo amp, and you set your meter on the lo amp scale, you'll blow the internal fuse in the meter when you use Bfenty's procedure.
There is a way to do this, but it's a bit more complex, and I haven't found a YouTube video that does it right.
I suppose you're right, that's just the way I've always done it and never had an issue. Not an electrician here though
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,982
Likes: 1,072
From: Lansing MI
Updates: took the car to the electrician shop -since I still don’t have the proper tools n equipment to diy it myself-
alternator, terminals. Starter...etc all working properly according to him , he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
and where I can find a full replacement kit for that?
alternator, terminals. Starter...etc all working properly according to him , he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
and where I can find a full replacement kit for that?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,425
Likes: 603
From: Minneapolis Mn
If it's via a fused circuit, this might help: https://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp...ter-67724.html
It will even work with the circuit breakers in the fuse panel if you make some short jumpers.
I have one and it helped me track down an issue.
It will even work with the circuit breakers in the fuse panel if you make some short jumpers.
I have one and it helped me track down an issue.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 164
From: Nashville TN
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,262
From: Hartford WI
Updates: took the car to the electrician shop -since I still don’t have the proper tools n equipment to diy it myself-
alternator, terminals. Starter...etc all working properly according to him , he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
and where I can find a full replacement kit for that?
alternator, terminals. Starter...etc all working properly according to him , he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
and where I can find a full replacement kit for that?
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
he recommends to replace the wiring harness since there are many jumper wires; Which he suspects is what’s causing the drain!
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
Now I think it’s a good idea to do that since I was already thinking to do it in the near future giving the age of the car and some wires burned and dried up... Just to tidy up the bay and restore it.
what do you think guys?
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,982
Likes: 1,072
From: Lansing MI
I always interpret the word "short" by its literal meaning, which is a condition that allows current to travel in an unintended path resulting in a situation where the wiring itself becomes the load in the circuit. This will either blow a fuse, burn up a fusible link, or maybe start a fire depending on how unlucky the owner is ... lol.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,262
From: Hartford WI
Sometimes when they don't want to play with you, they quote something crazy so you can get pissed and walk without them saying that they don't want to play with you
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 164
From: Nashville TN
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
If you mean improperly wired components then I agree 100%.
I always interpret the word "short" by its literal meaning, which is a condition that allows current to travel in an unintended path resulting in a situation where the wiring itself becomes the load in the circuit. This will either blow a fuse, burn up a fusible link, or maybe start a fire depending on how unlucky the owner is ... lol.
I always interpret the word "short" by its literal meaning, which is a condition that allows current to travel in an unintended path resulting in a situation where the wiring itself becomes the load in the circuit. This will either blow a fuse, burn up a fusible link, or maybe start a fire depending on how unlucky the owner is ... lol.
Also, I agree that replacing the wiring harness is a really bad idea. find the bad connection and replace that part.
If you need some wiring harness components let me know I might have a spare around.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,262
From: Hartford WI
First things first. Find a different mechanic.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 1,639
From: Fairfax Virginia
Go to Harbor Freight and buy the circuit tester listed below. It plugs in place of the fuse and will tell you exactly how much current is going through that particular circuit. They have them in various amperage ranges, I have the 30 Amps tester. These little buggers are very inexpensive and priceless in diagnosing problems like yours.
30 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester
Cen-Tech® - Item#67724
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp...ter-67724.html
Using this device you simply go through all the fuses to see if you have a device using power when it shouldn't be.
A battery should not loose 30-50 percent of its overall capacity in the time your battery was down. It is true that you will loose capacity but not that fast unless you are using a flooded lead acid battery and the cells are dry. Low electrolyte or even Dry cells are a killer on a FLA battery and the damage is irreversible.
A frequent problem that causes the symptoms that you are describing would be a loose or dirty connection at the alternator output. The other common location for a bad connection is where the battery cable attaches to the starter motor. We have seen these get loose or corroded.
I am guessing that you have a potentially bad battery or your diode bridge has failed in the regulator of the alternator. One good test is to try measuring AC voltage coming out of the alternator, if you see AC voltage then replace the alternator. The AC voltage can harm the electronics in these cars.
Of course if one of the interior lights stays on that will kill a battery in time.
The more information you provide the more likely we can help you identify you problem.
You need to disconnect the battery and charge it COMPLETELY and then reconnect it. Record the voltage and then turn the headlights on for about ten minutes with the engine off. Turn off the headlights and check the voltage after a couple minutes. Your battery should still be up near the normal open circuit voltage after the headlights are off for a couple of minutes.
NEVER, EVER, EVER DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR OR THE BATTERY WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING. The results will not be pretty. That is a "Old School Trick" that I would not do to my lawn mower let alone my prize Corvette.
When I buy a battery for any of my cars I use the InterState Brand and find a shop that sells a lot of them, this way you get a nice fresh battery. Never buy one that has been sitting on a shelf for months. Before putting the new battery into service charge it completely.
I hope that you find the solution, you have a bunch of us rooting for you. I wish you the best but be careful playing with batteries.
30 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester
Cen-Tech® - Item#67724
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp...ter-67724.html
Using this device you simply go through all the fuses to see if you have a device using power when it shouldn't be.
A battery should not loose 30-50 percent of its overall capacity in the time your battery was down. It is true that you will loose capacity but not that fast unless you are using a flooded lead acid battery and the cells are dry. Low electrolyte or even Dry cells are a killer on a FLA battery and the damage is irreversible.
A frequent problem that causes the symptoms that you are describing would be a loose or dirty connection at the alternator output. The other common location for a bad connection is where the battery cable attaches to the starter motor. We have seen these get loose or corroded.
I am guessing that you have a potentially bad battery or your diode bridge has failed in the regulator of the alternator. One good test is to try measuring AC voltage coming out of the alternator, if you see AC voltage then replace the alternator. The AC voltage can harm the electronics in these cars.
Of course if one of the interior lights stays on that will kill a battery in time.
The more information you provide the more likely we can help you identify you problem.
You need to disconnect the battery and charge it COMPLETELY and then reconnect it. Record the voltage and then turn the headlights on for about ten minutes with the engine off. Turn off the headlights and check the voltage after a couple minutes. Your battery should still be up near the normal open circuit voltage after the headlights are off for a couple of minutes.
NEVER, EVER, EVER DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR OR THE BATTERY WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING. The results will not be pretty. That is a "Old School Trick" that I would not do to my lawn mower let alone my prize Corvette.
When I buy a battery for any of my cars I use the InterState Brand and find a shop that sells a lot of them, this way you get a nice fresh battery. Never buy one that has been sitting on a shelf for months. Before putting the new battery into service charge it completely.
I hope that you find the solution, you have a bunch of us rooting for you. I wish you the best but be careful playing with batteries.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 374
Likes: 17
From: Dubai
I really appreciate the feedback and the advise I’m getting from you guys. As mentioned up, I’m located in Dubai and it is difficult to find someone who understand and be interested enough to work on these vettes..!! I have changed 3 or 4 mechanics and auto shops because I wasn’t impressed with their approach, they just want the easy way out to get the $$$.
i love working on it myself but due to fast life pace here and family and responsibilities I can’t find enough time plus I’m not really expert in electrical and electronics stuff in the sense.
As for the harness, I was really planning on replacing that if not all in one shot ... partially part by part as the condition of the wiring in the bay is not impressive (I’ll try and post some pics) and there are many jumper wires from previous owner!
The battery is brand new (just replaced it last month) and as I mentioned above I have an amplifier which I add a kill switch to, to have it switched off when garaged.
I’ll go and buy me a voltmeter this weekend and try to test it myself. And the (30 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester Cen-Tech® - Item#67724) mentioned by “ctmccloskey” if this also helps.
Is there a step by step instructions on how to tackle this whether here in CF or other sites using the above devises?
thansk again all much appreciated
i love working on it myself but due to fast life pace here and family and responsibilities I can’t find enough time plus I’m not really expert in electrical and electronics stuff in the sense.
As for the harness, I was really planning on replacing that if not all in one shot ... partially part by part as the condition of the wiring in the bay is not impressive (I’ll try and post some pics) and there are many jumper wires from previous owner!
The battery is brand new (just replaced it last month) and as I mentioned above I have an amplifier which I add a kill switch to, to have it switched off when garaged.
I’ll go and buy me a voltmeter this weekend and try to test it myself. And the (30 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester Cen-Tech® - Item#67724) mentioned by “ctmccloskey” if this also helps.
Is there a step by step instructions on how to tackle this whether here in CF or other sites using the above devises?
thansk again all much appreciated
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 14,523
Likes: 24
From: Washington County, South UTAH