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Completely dead!!

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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 10:59 AM
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Default Completely dead!!

went on a 2 weeks trip, when I came back I tried to start my 1991 Auto it was completely dead nothing works or lights up on dash!! (I had a new battery installed last month)
i jumped started it ... it started.. turned it off and tried again it didn’t start (couldn’t keep the charge) .. did the jump start again for few minutes it started....
any idea what could be the problem .. alternator?
Appreciate the feedback
TIA
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 11:03 AM
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If the battery is completely dead, it's going to take a little while for the car to get a charge on it. How long did you let the car run after jumping it? It's going to need a good 15-20 minutes to get a charge on the battery, and that will be far from fully charged, but should be enough to start the car without a jump.
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ZEROVETTE7
went on a 2 weeks trip, when I came back I tried to start my 1991 Auto it was completely dead nothing works or lights up on dash!! (I had a new battery installed last month)
i jumped started it ... it started.. turned it off and tried again it didn’t start (couldn’t keep the charge) .. did the jump start again for few minutes it started....
any idea what could be the problem .. alternator?
Appreciate the feedback
TIA
Start with Getting out your 8mm or 5/16 wrench and give the Terminals a Snug up, if that Doesn't do it remove the Terminals make sure they are Clear of Heavy Corrosion.

When the Car is Running what does the Dash Volt Gauge Say or a Volt Meter @ Battery say. If all this are OK Pull battery and use the Warrantee.
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 11:16 AM
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Sounds like parasitic draw to me.
Get it running and verify alternator voltage before we go down the parasitic draw road ....
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 1stVetteFinally
If the battery is completely dead, it's going to take a little while for the car to get a charge on it. How long did you let the car run after jumping it? It's going to need a good 15-20 minutes to get a charge on the battery, and that will be far from fully charged, but should be enough to start the car without a jump.
not long enough though around 10 min max. Will get it running more. Thx 👍🏻
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by s carter
Start with Getting out your 8mm or 5/16 wrench and give the Terminals a Snug up, if that Doesn't do it remove the Terminals make sure they are Clear of Heavy Corrosion.

When the Car is Running what does the Dash Volt Gauge Say or a Volt Meter @ Battery say. If all this are OK Pull battery and use the Warrantee.
terminals are new along with the battery.. no corrosion there ... shines like gold

ill check the gauges. And I really need to get a voltmeter. Thx 👍🏻
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
Sounds like parasitic draw to me.
Get it running and verify alternator voltage before we go down the parasitic draw road ....
how can I check the alternator if it’s working properly or not?
and what is parasitic draw? excuse my ignorance.
Thx👍🏻
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 12:18 PM
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you can check the alternator simply by starting the car and disconnecting the battery. If the alternator is working, the car will continue to run.

parasitic draw is when you have the car completely shut down, but there is power being drawn from the battery, which causes the battery to go dead in a few days
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stVetteFinally
you can check the alternator simply by starting the car and disconnecting the battery. If the alternator is working, the car will continue to run.
Do not do this, when the battery is connected it dampens the voltage spikes generated by the alternator which can damage electronic devices. If you disconnect the battery you run the rick of damaging electronic equipment in your car. An easy way to see if the alternator is working is to watch the volt meter when the car is running and note the reading, then disconnect the connector on the alternator that powers the field. That will be the snap in connection on the side of the alternator. If the volt meter drops the alternator is working. You can probably hear the difference between connected and not connected on engine load.

FYI the volt readings with a functioning alternator should be around 13.5 to 14.5. If it is not functioning it will be 12 or lower.

Last edited by bjankuski; Feb 4, 2018 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1stVetteFinally
you can check the alternator simply by starting the car and disconnecting the battery.
Originally Posted by bjankuski
Do not do this, when the battery is connected it dampens the voltage spikes generated by the alternator which can damage electronic devices. If you disconnect the battery you run the risk of damaging electronic equipment in your car.
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
Do not EVER do this!!! You can do more damage to a C4 electrically than the car is worth. Never disconnect the battery on a running engine.


These last two quotes should be in CAPITAL LETTERS!

Is there a possibility that something was left on, which caused your battery to go dead?

Also, a dead battery should be charged by using a battery charger, not by running your engine. The alternator is designed to keep a good battery charged, not to continuously put out enough current to charge a dead battery. This practice will shorten the life of your alternator.

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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 05:31 AM
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Actually I know about not to disconnect the Battery while running, but wasn’t sure... now I am... thanks all really appreciate it... love this forum!!

actually I have a JBL amplifier system ... I was suspecting that but I installed a kill switch to switch it off when not using it.

Other than that I don’t think I had anything on when I left it for a couple of weeks. I tried this morning also it is totally dead nothing work not a single light on dash board not even the center lock ..!! And I don’t want to jump start it.. worried might damage somthing..
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 11:22 AM
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Take the battery out and charge the hell out of it overnight on a slow charger and have it tested. Take the alternator out to a rebuild shop and have them disassemble and test it. I have had places like Autozone or NAPA, etc, etc test the alternator to say it is good and the disassembly says "NOPE".
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 11:26 AM
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just charge the battery
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ZEROVETTE7
Actually I know about not to disconnect the Battery while running, but wasn’t sure... now I am... thanks all really appreciate it... love this forum!!

actually I have a JBL amplifier system ... I was suspecting that but I installed a kill switch to switch it off when not using it.

Other than that I don’t think I had anything on when I left it for a couple of weeks. I tried this morning also it is totally dead nothing work not a single light on dash board not even the center lock ..!! And I don’t want to jump start it.. worried might damage somthing..
Sounds like a bad battery or parasitic draw.
Charge the battery and have it tested, if it fails then replace it, if it passes then your going to have to investigate the parasitic draw situation, which requires an ammeter, and a draw test switch.
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
These last two quotes should be in CAPITAL LETTERS!
Like this? Do not EVER do this!!!

A DVOM is essential for work on any new car. I don't rely on the dash for voltage, even IF it means climbing in/out of the car! Reading voltage at the battery will tell you the alternator's output, which should be above 13.2vdc, even with a fully charged battery. Be careful with older chargers as >16vdc can harm electronics.

Realize that totally a dead battery has probably permanently lost some power, maybe 30-50%.

When you buy the DVOM (digital volt-ohm-meter) procure a quality charger. I have a few, but the best is my cTek 7000 series, which can, in some cases, revive dead batteries. My success with that is low, but not zero.

First things and simple things first. Tracing a possible current drain is not the start point, but if you end up on that path, any aftermarket adds are prime suspects.
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by whalepirot
A DVOM is essential for work on any new car. I don't rely on the dash for voltage, even IF it means climbing in/out of the car! Reading voltage at the battery will tell you the alternator's output, which should be above 13.2vdc, even with a fully charged battery. Be careful with older chargers as >16vdc can harm electronics.

Realize that totally a dead battery has probably permanently lost some power, maybe 30-50%.

When you buy the DVOM (digital volt-ohm-meter) procure a quality charger. I have a few, but the best is my cTek 7000 series, which can, in some cases, revive dead batteries. My success with that is low, but not zero.

First things and simple things first. Tracing a possible current drain is not the start point, but if you end up on that path, any aftermarket adds are prime suspects.
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Can you use a scanner? I thought it does give you voltage? I think I had an alternator or two that was flakey. They sometimes work or work for the most part but once in a while, it hiccups. I kinda noticed that once accidently.

I think the first thing we need to establish is whether the alternator and battery are good before we start looking for a parasitic drain since he thinks it could be the stereo.
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 06:07 PM
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Easy way to figure out if you have a parasitic draw:

1-Turn the car completely off and remove the keys. Make sure all lights etc are off-you want to get everything electrical turned off on the car.

2-disconnect the negative batter terminal

3-use a voltmeter to measure current between the negative battery terminal and the battery.

You will see SOME current there-the ECM will draw some power as well as a few other odds and ends around the car. but it should be a VERY small amount. If you see any significant current draw then you have a parasitic drain.

Of course, don't do this until you've completely charged the battery. My first guess is a dead battery, especially if it's been cold where you are (it certainly has here).
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To Completely dead!!

Old Feb 5, 2018 | 07:54 PM
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Ehh ... no, not exactly but close. Just close enough to get it wrong and think your right.
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
3-use a voltmeter to measure current between the negative battery terminal and the battery.
Unfortunately, this may result in very misleading results. You'll get something in excess of 3 Amps for about 30 seconds or so. If you have an amp meter (DVM) that automatically switches between hi amp and lo amp, you might get away with this technique, but most meters can't do that. You want to see something less than 0.050 A (50 mA) for a residual current drain.

If your meter cannot automatically switch from hi amp to lo amp, and you set your meter on the lo amp scale, you'll blow the internal fuse in the meter when you use Bfenty's procedure.

There is a way to do this, but it's a bit more complex, and I haven't found a YouTube video that does it right.

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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 09:59 PM
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Somewhere along the line I wrote a big long step by step guide on how to do this exactly. If I wasn't so bad at navigating this forum then I would find and post the link.
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