Just looking at the loose garbage around an open motor bothers me. Please vacuum that stuff before some of it enters the motor. I know it's obvious, but I asked earlier, is the 9 pin round injector harness plugged in?

 

 

Hello there, This post is interesting because of the loose wires and bolts!

When ever I rebuild a motor I generally have the block "Hot-Tanked" at the machine shop. The block comes back perfectly clean so I painted it with the standard Orange paint that Chevrolet uses.

I had similar issues with my 1988 Coupe after it sat for a couple years. The fuel pump would not run and never primed the engine when I turned the key to "Start" the engine.

On my car it was a combination of issues. I had dirty connections where the fusible links get their power from. There was a loose connection at the oil pressure sending unit. The worst problem turned out to be the fact that most of my fuses all corroded while in the main fuse block and would not allow any power through them without making lots of resistance/heat.
They must have been cheap fuses because each one of them "looked" okay but the surface of the contact area had a fine layer of whitish powder on them. They just did not allow current to pass through them.
I cleaned the fuse block and installed new fuses and all the sudden the interior accessories started working again. The fuse pump relay was probably not getting any juice until I cleaned the fuse panel.

Check your voltages at the fuse block, they should be almost exactly what your battery voltage is. If not you are likely to have dirty connections on both the Positive connections and possibly on the grounds. My radio had less than 9 volts when I started working on the connections, when done it was full battery voltage (~12.6) everywhere in the car.

One test I did was to run 12 Vdc directly to the fuel pump near the tank opening. That was okay, so I checked the fuel pump relay and that is where I found another (Non-Factory) crimped wire that caused the relay not to properly energize. I was using a gadget called a "Power Probe" which helped me test each circuit by applying either Full battery voltage or ground at the tip using a rocker switch on the handle. I heartily recommend this tool to other Corvette Owners as it can be a lifesaver.

By the way, when testing your injectors be aware that they should have 12 Volts on one terminal of the injector's plug. The other side is floating until it is "Pulled Down" to ground by the Engine controls systems. When the ground signal is sent then you get an energized injector which should squirt the gas into the cylinder. Be careful when applying 12 Vdc power directly to the injectors. Like mentioned earlier, the injectors fire in "batches" of four.

Good Luck and I hope that you find the mysterious open circuit or whatever is keeping your car from running!