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Only happens on first start of day, then fine afterwards.
Insert Key
Turn key to run until pump primes
Turn key to start - Nothing
Release back to run
Turn key to start- solenoid clicking
Release key to run
Turn key to start - car starts immediately.
At first turn on Digital volts read 12.2
After first 2 attempts voltage read 11.9 (car then started).
Also, When it starts it feels like I am at the physical limit of the lock cylinder.
Thoughts?
Last edited by belairbrian; Apr 25, 2018 at 04:03 PM.
Ignition switch is 'slotted' and although what you're experiencing is considered ODD you could adjust the switch maybe. There's no doubt it's an unusual behavior but if you actually noticed the 'physical limit' feel as being other than what you're accustomed to then maybe. Just switch age? Maybe.
Rack and maybe plastic pinion wear might contribute. You were in the column recently so maybe you just check the rod from rack to switch for some slop on top of the column.
Switch adjustment isn't an easy reach but not that difficult either.
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by belairbrian
Little bit of an odd problem starting the car.
Only happens on first start of day, then fine afterwards.
Insert Key Turn key to run until pump primes
Turn key to start - Nothing
Release back to run
Turn key to start- solenoid clicking
Release key to run
Turn key to start - car starts immediately.
At first turn on Digital volts read 12.2
After first 2 attempts voltage read 11.9 (car then started).
Also, When it starts it feels like I am at the physical limit of the lock cylinder.
Thoughts?
There a special reason why some think they need to do this?
A 'worn out switch' makes maybe best rational thought. The column mount switch is essentially a 'brush type' device and age would certainly take a toll on the internal contacts. 1st start of the day maybe makes sense also, once the switch starts a conductive state there's certainly a certain amount of heat generated internally. Were it mine I'd maybe do a switch because it's inexpensive and if i were going to attempt any adjustment a same/similar task.
I thinking the starter mainly the solenoid. A problem I had also intermittent as heck with a click of the solenoid but would not turn over. Pretty common on the corvette starters and other cars.
There a special reason why some think they need to do this?
I can only speak for myself. pretty much any car including cars as old as ours, have a fair amount of electronics. Some of these modules go through self tests on start up. I've found that by the time the fuel pump finishes the prime cycle the self tests are done as well.
So I use it as a wait timer before starting any car I own. probably comes form my background in electronics.
well I had a chance yesterday to look at this further. Pulled the hush panel and looked at the switch. The screw was tight but the nut towards the firewall was loose.
Made a slight adjustment and I'm not at the physical limit anymore. High beam switch is working easier too.
Someone had used the nut for a ground when they installed the aftermarket stereo.
This morning I went out and turned the key. It did not start for 2 or 3 seconds.
So here is the malfunction. On first start the key must be held in start for 2-3 seconds before the car starts. The solenoid clicks immediately. But it takes the 2-3 seconds to turn the motor. After that it starts immediately. Best guess is bad contacts in the solenoid so looks like I'll be pulling a starter.
Best guess is bad contacts in the solenoid so looks like I'll be pulling a starter.
Contacts and plunger in a 'denso is frequently considered 'maintenance'. If there's a local re-builder in the area the 'denso parts should be on the shelf. There's also a couple or so very reliable Internet sources. Do you know that your starter is original or maybe already a rebuild?
Contacts and plunger in a 'denso is frequently considered 'maintenance'. If there's a local re-builder in the area the 'denso parts should be on the shelf. There's also a couple or so very reliable Internet sources. Do you know that your starter is original or maybe already a rebuild?
Only know that it was in the car when I bought it. Luckily we still have an old school radiator starter generator shop. Of course they are the old school type that works M-F so I'll have to stop by after I get it out and confirm it's a denso.
Wanted to close this out. I pulled the starter and the contacts were pretty bad. Most likely
this was the original starter. The casting had Delco-Remy in raised letters, the motor had the nippondenso sticker intact. So either it was the original or a GM replacement. I got the contact kit for $13 and the rebuild took about 20 minutes. for those that are interested here's what the contacts looked like.
Last edited by belairbrian; Apr 25, 2018 at 04:01 PM.
Wanted to close this out. I pulled the starter and the contacts were pretty bad. Most likely
this was the original starter. The casting had Delco-Remy in raised letters, the motor had the nippondenso sticker intact. So either it was the original or a GM replacement. I got the contact kit for $13 and the rebuild took about 20 minutes. for those that are interested here's what the contacts looked like.
Did you happen to make a note on the plunger length? I get asked that frequently and I don't have an L98, LT1/4 that's apart.
Did you happen to make a note on the plunger length? I get asked that frequently and I don't have an L98, LT1/4 that's apart.
It was 96.7mm
I ran the part number and found it's essentially the same price on Amazon as it was locally. In case someone can't find the kit locally.
This has the same part number as what I bought but mine was in a box not vacuum packed on a card. Also had 6 contacts, guessing so it can be used on different starters.
Both of my o-rings were shot but I used two 011s from my metric oring box and the fit just right.
Starter not spinning
