When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Actually, what I said was as this started to happen, the car would stall out while going down the road. At first, I could get it to restart (this is when I was still getting a reaction from the tach when I would turn the car over trying to start it). After the car restarted, I would try to drive the car, but couldn't make it far enough down the road to get the car past third gear without it stalling again. A couple times during this, while trying to restart the car, the car backfired though the exhaust and blew a black cloud of smoke (very similar to the smoke my last car blew when it had bad O2 sensors). The car eventually stopped restarting, and this is when the tach stopped reacting to me trying to start the car.
So Tom, does this sound like a bad opti to you, now that I explained what happen a little better?
During the phase that you described above, where it re-started, ran but poorly and couldn't get above 3rd gear, the backfiring etc...the tach should have been going "crazy" if the opti was the cause. As the engine missed, backfired, etc. that would be a result of the "now - now - now..." signal coming and going...and would manifest itself in driving like you described, plus the tach needle bouncing all over the place.
Originally Posted by 1stVetteFinally
About what you were saying about tach not moving much because of a slow turing starter. My current starter is pretty strong, and before this, when I would turn the car over to start it, my tach would read between 300-400 rpms, so that wouldn't be an issue with this particular car. I do value your opinion Tom as I feel you're one of the more knowledgeable people on these forums.
It sounds like it. If you are confident that you could read a few hundred RPM on the starter, and now you aren't....that is pretty clear indicator, in my mind. Still...I'd just CONFIRM that you have no spark when the symptom is occurring, since it's such an easy test.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 26, 2018 at 10:57 AM.
So I changed out the Opti. Went surprisingly easy, so easy it was scaring me. Get it all back together, and wouldn’t you know it, it still doesn’t start. Before the change, I was getting no fire and no reaction from the tach when trying to start the car. Now when I try to start the car, my tach reacts, but it goes down, like negative rpms, instead of going up to the +300 rpms range like it did before this problem started. Ideas please
I think you need to look at some basics. Does it have spark? I also think that you need to beg/borrow/steal a scan tool so that you can see what the opti is doing
It did not have fire before changing the Opti, I will confirm tomorrow if it still does not have fire. What scanner would you recommend?
one thing, the Opti I removed did have the vent added to it, but it’s intake hose was cut off and only 2 inches long. Lots of grease, oil, and grime right there.
Last edited by 1stVetteFinally; May 4, 2018 at 07:51 PM.
After being bent over the engine bay for 6 hours Friday, my back couldn't handle working on it Saturday, and rain kept me doing anything with it yesterday. Going to try to work on it some more today, if I can find some help. It's kinda hard to turn the car over to check for spark while inside the car. I miss the remote start my last Vette had, but then again, remote start isn't very smart for a manual IMHO. Will post back when I have more info.
Originally Posted by Whaleman
Did you find where the oil was coming from and fix?
I didn't see any fresh oil when I had it apart, and the car hasn't left any oil drops in any driveways. I'm thinking the oil on the opti was from an old leak that was previously fixed.
Last edited by 1stVetteFinally; May 7, 2018 at 07:58 AM.
Don't you think he should check to see if he has spark, before chucking more parts?
When did I say "chucking more parts"? If there's fuel pressure, a new distributor, and no spark, the next logical things to test would be the ICM and/or coil. Stop being a forum troll.
I think there was an honest misunderstanding here. I think pacoW meant to check the ICM and coil and Tom thought pacoW was suggesting just replacing without testing.
It running again. Checked for fire off coil, no fire. Checked fuses, blown fuse. Replaced fuse, and started getting fire. So I guess the Opti took a fuse with it (that’s what I’m telling myself at least).
pulled code P300 this am , placed order with optidoctor 2 hours later. last week had an MSD box full of water rewired and replaced. hope this BS ends soon.
I think there was an honest misunderstanding here. I think pacoW meant to check the ICM and coil and Tom thought pacoW was suggesting just replacing without testing.
Yes, that is exactly how I perceived it. That is certainly how Paco's post read to me. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Thanks Whaleman.
Troll? I don't think so.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; May 7, 2018 at 10:29 PM.
It running again. Checked for fire off coil, no fire. Checked fuses, blown fuse. Replaced fuse, and started getting fire. So I guess the Opti took a fuse with it (that’s what I’m telling myself at least).
DAMN IT, it's not fixed. And I have no idea what's wrong with it. I tried to go racing with it last night. No issues driving to the track. Comes my turn to make my time trial laps, and as I'm coming around the track to take the green flag, going into turn 3, my engine just died (again). Seems that anytime I actually turn high RPMs (5k or more), I lose fire. Car won't restart by letting out the clutch either, but it will restart with the key. It did it 3 times on the way home last night and it's still not throwing any trouble codes (SYS needs to be linking for it have a trouble code correct?)