Dead Opti?
Cruising
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
That's a new one for me. I don't know if you can salvage the connector. It's possible...depending on condition, I suppose.
To test the opti, simply plug the 4 pin "opti harness" into the distributor, take your coil wire (connected to the coil) and position the opti end of the wire near ground -like I had done in my video. Turn the ignition ON, then spin the distributor...it should throw a good spark(s).
To test the opti, simply plug the 4 pin "opti harness" into the distributor, take your coil wire (connected to the coil) and position the opti end of the wire near ground -like I had done in my video. Turn the ignition ON, then spin the distributor...it should throw a good spark(s).
turns out connector not issue, although I will add a dab of epoxy to better secure it, once I pulled opti apart....as you would expect, full of rust. Cap and rotor good, tin plate completely rusted, drive plate had all kinds of rust in 360 slots and rust everywhere. Also plate “wavey”. Was able to “re-flatten” plate after a few tries by pressing between to pieces of flat metal w visegrips and heating to 300*. Soaked tin plate in cider overnight. Going back together after I soak in baking soda and water and spray light coat of WD40. Will rtv any suspect areas so NO MOISTURE will get in. Thanks for help. I am having a hard time finding part numbers/parts for h20 and opti drive seals?
thanks again for your help
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
update:
turns out connector not issue, although I will add a dab of epoxy to better secure it, once I pulled opti apart....as you would expect, full of rust. Cap and rotor good, tin plate completely rusted, drive plate had all kinds of rust in 360 slots and rust everywhere. Also plate “wavey”. Was able to “re-flatten” plate after a few tries by pressing between to pieces of flat metal w visegrips and heating to 300*. Soaked tin plate in cider overnight. Going back together after I soak in baking soda and water and spray light coat of WD40. Will rtv any suspect areas so NO MOISTURE will get in. Thanks for help. I am having a hard time finding part numbers/parts for h20 and opti drive seals?
thanks again for your help
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
update:
turns out connector not issue, although I will add a dab of epoxy to better secure it, once I pulled opti apart....as you would expect, full of rust. Cap and rotor good, tin plate completely rusted, drive plate had all kinds of rust in 360 slots and rust everywhere. Also plate “wavey”. Was able to “re-flatten” plate after a few tries by pressing between to pieces of flat metal w visegrips and heating to 300*. Soaked tin plate in cider overnight. Going back together after I soak in baking soda and water and spray light coat of WD40. Will rtv any suspect areas so NO MOISTURE will get in. Thanks for help. I am having a hard time finding part numbers/parts for h20 and opti drive seals?
thanks again for your help
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Cruising
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
H16
Are there supposed to be seals for plastic cover and cap? It had a silicone grease on it for a seal.
mine is unvented, thoughts?
special tool for drive seal in timing cover?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
I can't help you much on this post;
I can't remember,
I don't recall any seals
Venting is better, but mine's not vented either.
There is a special tool. I've not changed my seal yet. It doesn't leak, so...
I can't remember,
I don't recall any seals
Venting is better, but mine's not vented either.
There is a special tool. I've not changed my seal yet. It doesn't leak, so...
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Good luck!
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Cruising
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
H16
The rotor only goes on one way...there are two screws and a dowel on the rotor. There is suppose to be a ruber o-ring seal on the cap, not the plastic cover. I would not use grease on any parts in the Opti, it can make its way to the sensor. You can look up what the "special tool" for the drive seal looks like (a screw and vice grips). Please for the love of all that is Corvette, locktite the rotor screws.
Good luck!
Good luck!
what should I see? Shouldn’t low res be 1.2 ish while turning. Does this test indicate bad sensor?
i was very careful inside.
Last edited by Macvipersd; Jun 1, 2018 at 10:20 AM.
Cruising
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
H16
what should I see? Shouldn’t low res be 1.2v ish while turning. Does this test indicate bad sensor?
i was very careful inside.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
I had a number of no-start/stall conditions on my 94 and it seemed like it would change...I would fix one and it would die again. I changed a ton of stuff, but these were the problems that I verified were plaguing me:
1. The opti was installed wrong and would periodically die, this was because one of the rotor screws was flying around inside with the washer causing trouble AND there was oil on the sensor.
2. The coil was after market (red but not MSD) and it was cracked. When it heated up, it would stop working.
3. The fuel pressure regulator had a ruptured diaphragm (failed to hold vacuum), it would sometimes cut fuel pressure, then reset and work fine.
Again, this was not everything I changed, but these were the things I verified were bad. Its hard to diagnose a stall or no start on these cars because so many things can cause it...in fact multiple things can cause it at once. Don't give up!
1. The opti was installed wrong and would periodically die, this was because one of the rotor screws was flying around inside with the washer causing trouble AND there was oil on the sensor.
2. The coil was after market (red but not MSD) and it was cracked. When it heated up, it would stop working.
3. The fuel pressure regulator had a ruptured diaphragm (failed to hold vacuum), it would sometimes cut fuel pressure, then reset and work fine.
Again, this was not everything I changed, but these were the things I verified were bad. Its hard to diagnose a stall or no start on these cars because so many things can cause it...in fact multiple things can cause it at once. Don't give up!
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
The point to my post was there is no silver bullet for a no start or stall condition, there can be many causes, you need to do some troubleshooting and provide that information to these forums. People here can help you pin it down, but often it will not be easy. My problems happened to include an opti, but it could just as easily been a fuel filter...or coil...or ignition module...or a broken fuel gauge (as in tank it empty). What symptoms are you seeing and what troubleshooting have you done?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 823
Likes: 106
From: Somewhere near Fort Wayne, Indiana
This is why I would have liked to read about the fix, so I can look at the different things and figure it out without a lot of forum posting. Reading posts by others who have fixed the issues gives also me something to do at work while I don't have anything to do.
I've got a thread here already, but the nuts and bolts of it involves wide open throttle, a 1-2 shift (a4) and engine shutdown. Fuses checked out ok. (The ones on the passenger side dash) no new codes. Fuel pressure about 43psi. I haven't been able to have someone turn the key while I check for spark, but I shot some ether in the TB and nothing. Tach reads zero during cranking, Torque app shows no data for rpm. Fuel pump runs for 10-15 seconds rather than the 2-3 its supposed to. Car is a 96 lt1.
Right now I'm in the middle of moving and don't have any time to diagnose it further.
I've got a thread here already, but the nuts and bolts of it involves wide open throttle, a 1-2 shift (a4) and engine shutdown. Fuses checked out ok. (The ones on the passenger side dash) no new codes. Fuel pressure about 43psi. I haven't been able to have someone turn the key while I check for spark, but I shot some ether in the TB and nothing. Tach reads zero during cranking, Torque app shows no data for rpm. Fuel pump runs for 10-15 seconds rather than the 2-3 its supposed to. Car is a 96 lt1.
Right now I'm in the middle of moving and don't have any time to diagnose it further.
Last edited by 64Scout; Jun 5, 2018 at 01:51 PM.
