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Old 07-10-2018, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Cruisinfanatic View Post
a couple hrs
Well, i've had bad dizzyness since my surgery last August, so I will have to wait until my son can help me...thx!
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by krackenvette View Post
And stock fans temperatures are usually above 220 for them to turn on. For c4's with 2 fans, turning ac forces both on.
But, cleaning may be in order ..
Yah, I can't stand how my fans turn on at 230ish! I really think my Vette loves to run just under 200. Lol. Think cleaning will help!
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:59 PM
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also possible your t stat isnt opening fully. never seen it or experienced it but I've read about that on this forum.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r View Post
also possible your t stat isnt opening fully. never seen it or experienced it but I've read about that on this forum.
Thought of that. This is my third stat. Tried 190, 185, and now 160.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by unforgivener View Post
Yah, I can't stand how my fans turn on at 230ish! I really think my Vette loves to run just under 200. Lol. Think cleaning will help!
Cleaning will help , yes. But, My single ro radiator worked fine in SC and Hawaii. My 396 with high stall, 3.76 gears etc etc can run 185 in 100 degree weather with single row OEM radiator and fans set to turn on at 185 to 190.
The one thing that doesnt cool easily is oil, hence the LT1 went Mobil 1 to help combat effects of heat on oil. Oil runs 230 to 250 sometimes hot ******* it around with factory settings. Imagine how dot your transmission, auto, is running too.
I went OCD and bought a BeCool radiator and a external B&M stacked transmission cooler later in my Vettes lifes. Its overkill, but tranny never gets above 180.
So, back to OP.
Clean it, see how it runs. If it is still too hot for you, get fans reprogrammed to come on at lower temperature. OEM is 235 I believe fro second fan , correct me if I am wrong. Cant remember what the first fans temp comes on at , but its probably close to 220

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Old 07-11-2018, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by unforgivener View Post
Thought of that. This is my third stat. Tried 190, 185, and now 160.
All a stat does is open up early, and while cruising maintain a lower temperature. The Fans cool it while below 25mph. Reset fans for stop n go traffic cooling.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by krackenvette View Post
Cleaning will help , yes. But, My single ro radiator worked fine in SC and Hawaii. My 396 with high stall, 3.76 gears etc etc can run 185 in 100 degree weather with single row OEM radiator and fans set to turn on at 185 to 190.
The one thing that doesnt cool easily is oil, hence the LT1 went Mobil 1 to help combat effects of heat on oil. Oil runs 230 to 250 sometimes hot ******* it around with factory settings. Imagine how dot your transmission, auto, is running too.
I went OCD and bought a BeCool radiator and a external B&M stacked transmission cooler later in my Vettes lifes. Its overkill, but tranny never gets above 180.
So, back to OP.
Clean it, see how it runs. If it is still too hot for you, get fans reprogrammed to come on at lower temperature. OEM is 235 I believe fro second fan , correct me if I am wrong. Cant remember what the first fans temp comes on at , but its probably close to 220
My primary is kicking on at 220. If and when it can't cool it down, the secondary fan will kick on at 235ish. I'm leaning toward pulling n cleaning the radiator of debris.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by krackenvette View Post
All a stat does is open up early, and while cruising maintain a lower temperature. The Fans cool it while below 25mph. Reset fans for stop n go traffic cooling.
How do u reset fans? I'm thinking reprogram computer, or a low temp fan switch?
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by unforgivener View Post
How do u reset fans? I'm thinking reprogram computer, or a low temp fan switch?
My 93 I reburn my chips( am not a programmer, I just have a laptop, burner and chips I can reprogram to my specific vehicle), 94 and newer reflash PCM.. Some companies will send you one done, with a core charge, and you send yours back after putting it in.
Not sure of the fan switch, or what years can make those work.

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Old 07-11-2018, 08:42 PM
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Today t was 94 degrees in SC. In traffic I was at 209, with AC on. On Highway I was at 176 at 75 mph after couple miles(non fisherman, about 5 miles)
Fans are programmed 185 fan 1 and 190 fan 2.

Last edited by krackenvette; 07-11-2018 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:45 PM
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Also, DO Not Run fan manually after 25 mph. It will not allow air to flow through radiator effectively,
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:20 PM
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So I wanted to post this video with my other pictures from my post 7 in the previous page but could not get it to work and load at that time. This will just give you an idea of the dirt that comes out with my air gun.

It shows the dirt coming out of the condenser but its the same for the radiator. You should be doing this even if you have an upgraded radiator because they all can get dirty regardless.

In addition cleaning the condenser gives the radiator better air and also increases the efficiency of the A/C system cooling the Freon better insuring it leaves as a liquid and not a gas.


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Old 07-12-2018, 05:18 AM
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One time driving to Atlanta the Vette started getting hotter and hotter. I pulled over, and discovered a ciggarette carton was jammed up in the radiator. We are bottom feeder cooling cars. So, leaves, bags etc are easy to get up in there. Leaves, with water pack dirt... Over time, massive dirt, as video above shows.
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Old 07-14-2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by krackenvette View Post
Today t was 94 degrees in SC. In traffic I was at 209, with AC on. On Highway I was at 176 at 75 mph after couple miles(non fisherman, about 5 miles)
Fans are programmed 185 fan 1 and 190 fan 2.
Thanks, that's awesome! I finally got my ac working good, and not i'm cooking again. I will give that a try as soon as I am able...
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94 View Post
So I wanted to post this video with my other pictures from my post 7 in the previous page but could not get it to work and load at that time. This will just give you an idea of the dirt that comes out with my air gun.

It shows the dirt coming out of the condenser but its the same for the radiator. You should be doing this even if you have an upgraded radiator because they all can get dirty regardless.

In addition cleaning the condenser gives the radiator better air and also increases the efficiency of the A/C system cooling the Freon better insuring it leaves as a liquid and not a gas.

https://youtu.be/9nCve6juNXc
I may have already responded but thanks for the video. I've had my '89 for about 8yrs now and have never attempted to clean exterior of radiator. I will give this a try!
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by unforgivener View Post
My primary is kicking on at 220. If and when it can't cool it down, the secondary fan will kick on at 235ish. I'm leaning toward pulling n cleaning the radiator of debris.
^^ your fan is coming on at the correct temp. my 86 comes on just a bit higher. as said by others, over 25mph, fans are mot commanded to come on because a correctly installed air dam forces plenty of air through the condensor and the rad. your rad is plugged OR you water pump is toast/seized. id probably go with the rad being plugged.

Also it could be the inside of the rad, requiring a vinegar douche or a prestone flush, when i buy new c4's every one gets two prestone bottles and i drive it for a week. then i flush it allllll out. refill with 50/50 that i mix myself.

And as stated it can be the outside of the rad that is plugged. removing the top half of the shroud is easy, lift it up as much as you can if not off, and then you can lift the condensor up out of the way on the driverside and you can get your hose and brush in there.

This stuff is actually enjoyable as long as you dont have a gun to your head being a daily driver that needs to be fixed by a certain time. two days on the weekend would be enough time if it is your fist time.

Originally Posted by unforgivener View Post
Wow...was your performance being affected at all? Any error codes being generated? So you removed the converter...did you install a new one?
sry i never replied to this about my ultra hot cat. i gutted it. left the cannister on the car, dropped the rear y, a hammer and a piece of long metal and broke it up. used a shop vac to suck it out. wore a mask. there was performance defredation when it started to get really bad yeah. And when i removed the blockage wow it was a new car.

anyway, your issue is almost assuredly a plugged up rad inside or out. outside is easy u just look.
there are ways to test inside if you dont want to throw an expensive rad at it:

for the cost of 4 gallons of vinegar, you can drain the coolant, fill the rad up with vinegar, leave it for 30 minutes, and drain again into a clean bucket that will let you see the crud.

if lots of crud, repeat repeat and u will likely clear it.

then put in a bottle of prestone and fill with water and drive around.

your overheat will probably have been fixed from the vinegar in the rad, and the prestone is just a measure to give the passages in the block a chance to descale.

then drain, by draining the knock sensor on the passenger side of the block, and either the kc4 oil cooler or its metal plug if u dont have the kc4.

fill with 50/50 and i bet u would be able to take your car to the road track without overheating.

i know i can!
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r View Post


^^ your fan is coming on at the correct temp. my 86 comes on just a bit higher. as said by others, over 25mph, fans are mot commanded to come on because a correctly installed air dam forces plenty of air through the condensor and the rad. your rad is plugged OR you water pump is toast/seized. id probably go with the rad being plugged.

Also it could be the inside of the rad, requiring a vinegar douche or a prestone flush, when i buy new c4's every one gets two prestone bottles and i drive it for a week. then i flush it allllll out. refill with 50/50 that i mix myself.

And as stated it can be the outside of the rad that is plugged. removing the top half of the shroud is easy, lift it up as much as you can if not off, and then you can lift the condensor up out of the way on the driverside and you can get your hose and brush in there.

This stuff is actually enjoyable as long as you dont have a gun to your head being a daily driver that needs to be fixed by a certain time. two days on the weekend would be enough time if it is your fist time.



sry i never replied to this about my ultra hot cat. i gutted it. left the cannister on the car, dropped the rear y, a hammer and a piece of long metal and broke it up. used a shop vac to suck it out. wore a mask. there was performance defredation when it started to get really bad yeah. And when i removed the blockage wow it was a new car.

anyway, your issue is almost assuredly a plugged up rad inside or out. outside is easy u just look.
there are ways to test inside if you dont want to throw an expensive rad at it:

for the cost of 4 gallons of vinegar, you can drain the coolant, fill the rad up with vinegar, leave it for 30 minutes, and drain again into a clean bucket that will let you see the crud.

if lots of crud, repeat repeat and u will likely clear it.

then put in a bottle of prestone and fill with water and drive around.

your overheat will probably have been fixed from the vinegar in the rad, and the prestone is just a measure to give the passages in the block a chance to descale.

then drain, by draining the knock sensor on the passenger side of the block, and either the kc4 oil cooler or its metal plug if u dont have the kc4.

fill with 50/50 and i bet u would be able to take your car to the road track without overheating.

i know i can!
Hi am going to try your suggestion but I have a question. When you say fill the rad with vinegar are you saying to empty all the coolant first before filling it up with vinegar and when you say to leave it for 30 minutes, do you have to run the engine during that time?
thanks.
George
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ghr4news View Post
When you say fill the rad with vinegar are you saying to empty all the coolant first before filling it up with vinegar and when you say to leave it for 30 minutes, do you have to run the engine during that time?
Grab a catch pan and drain the rad from the petcock. its on the rearward edge of the rad, on the passenger side. This will drain the rad and partially drain the block and coolant hoses.

Then, fill the entire think with vinegar.

Let it sit. Even more than 30 min if tou have time. You are in a situation where the more you let the vinegar (mild acetic acid) sit, the more it will de-scale.

that said, i would not let it sit for more than 12hrs.

Dont run the car with the vinegar. The purpose of the vinegar is to descale just the rad. if u run the car its going to mix with the glycol in the block and get diluted. keep pouring in vinegar until the rad is filled right up. let soak.

(the final prestone flush that u drive around with will get the block. )

remember that when u start this u need to have the time to properly finish because you shouldnt let the vinegar sit in there for days and days.
The vinegar is going to dissolve the rust and other scale. So far this has worked very well for me and the crud that has come out of the petcock after a good vinegar soak has been amazing.
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