i used Mr. Gasket 7401G Header Gaskets and Stage 8 Locking Header Bolt Set

 

only had to modify the oil tube ...

 

Thanks that’s how I want the phab headers to fit. I’m hoping they fit exactly like that since they’re another eBay header and look almost just like obx except a flange on the end of the headers.

 

I'm using OBX long tube stainless headers on my 800+ hp Firebird. Been on for several years now. No issues, no banging. Very nice welds, no oxidation. Lot better than the over priced crap made by rednecks here in the US.

-- Joe

 

 

That makes me think these phab brand ones will be better then. I’m hoping they’re a copy just like the obx’s. Do you have any pictures of how yours are after you’ve had them on? Are they still shiny or did you not keep up at polishing them when they start turning goldish colored?

 

In what way "Lot better"? How is the ease of install? Will the brackets fit (The picture doesn't seem to show it) Can you get to the plugs easier? Can you get it without the emissions crap? How much more to get ceramic coating?

 

Rednecks in the u.s.? Salem witch hunts/trials. Where are you from ? 85 crvet why did you bother to ask if your mind was made up?

 

Validation that you can get $100 of product from a $20 one?

 

I started this thread to see if anyone has tried the eBay headers and ask people who have tried them with their experience. Out of the people on here that has actually tried them most of the people had good experiences with them. So that makes me want to try these headers over the hedmans because I won’t be afraid of them rusting and they are cheaper than them too. I’m not saying that these headers will be as good as anyone’s who has paid for the $1,000 headers, I just wanted to find out if they will be a good hood header worth trying with just a few fabrications needed done for them to fit. I will be posting here in 2 or three months when they show up after I buy them with some pictures and to tell how it went after I take them to the exhaust shop. I was asking for some pictures so i can see how they stay shiny just so I know whether they will stay that way because I like the looks of stainless when it is new.

 

That was a different Salem.

Yes. You've got a few options from headers. You can buy headers from a small company which will charge you a fortune because they have no buying power so they pay a premium for steel. You can buy from a large company that hires meth heads and toothless rednecks (I've toured these facilities), or you can buy from the Chinese which employs 12 year old girls.

I don't really care who gets my money, I just care about the value. The Chinese OBX headers are outstanding. I compared them side by side to the stainless works headers and they were very close in quality, except the Chinese obviously had robotic tig welding.

There is also the "Dyno Don" headers out of California that look like they were welded with a car battery and a coat hanger. Those are not stainless though.

-- Joe

 

Good quality welds, thick gauge stainless. The ports were opened up to a felpro 1405 with a nice entry. The flanges were thick and flat, no warpage. I don't see why the brackets would be an issue, they are mounted the header bolts using spacers. I find plug access to be very easy. I've also run the hooker long tubes on a C4 and also found plug access to be easy, but I see people complaining about them.

I don't know about the AIR tubes, so I can agree that could be a problem. The ones I have bought for other platforms (fbody) had no AIR tubes. I have a set of the shorty version (in stainless) that might go in my C4, or I might buy a set of the long tubes. Have not decided yet on that as it's just a street car.

I wouldn't ceramic coat anything. Go stainless. Ceramic coating dulls, turns to crap, scratches, etc. Stainless headers last forever. I have some SLP headers from the 90s in my shop that still polish up.


-- Joe

 

Let see....we can support a small company (American)....I'm sure us vette owners could afford a few more bucks
We can support child labor in China and the money that goes to the gov't, you know the gov't that is catching up to the U.S. in military technology

Who gets your money? Value + OUTSTANDING chinese headers = ???

Don't worry about Melrose headers, they don't have little girls fabricating their headers....save a couple of hundred

I hope you factor in the "cost of aggravation"

 

It's a global economy. Small companies need to be competitive to survive. I have to be, why shouldn't they be?

What cost of aggravation?

It's 2019. Chinese products are good. In many cases the manufacturing processes are far superior to stuff made here. The equipment is new, robotic controls, etc. US companies cannot compete because union thugs demanding outrageous wages and outdated equipment / manufacturing processes.

Between trade tariffs, investments in Chinese corporations, and the fact that we are paying American companies to import the goods I have no issues where the money is going.

Again, I'm running these on my Firebird. I have another few sets in my shop for other applications. I've used them, including their turbo headers in lots of other vehicles. Good quality.

-- Joe

 

Cost of Aggravation(I've seen some OBX owners experience it).....if you have to fabricate or go to an exhaust shop to get them installed....manufacturing process is spotty, sound like you got a set made on a Wednesday

Union Thugs or preteens/children working in a factory....I'll take the Union guys, the money they make they spend here. I'm confused here because you talk about superior manufacturing facilities (ie: robotics) and mention 12 year old kids working in Chinese factories

 

Yes. The 12 year old puts the tubes in a jig, the robot welds them, the 12 year old removes them and puts them in a box. Vs hooker, hedman, and others that old burly guys put them in jigs and then weld them with a mig.

Have you seen videos of over seas manufacturing ? Interesting stuff. Sometimes it's a disaster, but many times it works out. We just bought a company in India that came with 35 skilled workers. They are very cheap, and work hard. Meanwhile, the lazy kid who can't get my order right in the drive thru window wants $18 an hour.


Have you installed OBX headers on anything?


I'll pay more for something if it's proven much better. Lay a set of stainless OBX headers next to a pair of Hooker and you'll quickly realize the "chinese crap" is much better.

-- Joe

 

Mine had all the appropriate spacers as part of the system. I didn't have to make any. My TPIS ones were relatively simple. In fact, getting to #6 and especially #8 were so easy, I could stand on the side and get at them with a regular plug socket. I have had another one in a friend's car where we had to take the starter off so we could get a wrench on it and make small turns from the underside.

When I bought headers, I can't remember the other brand but the builder suggested that in spite of the fact that TPIS was very proud of their headers, I should pony up and get them because of the size that would be best for my setup. Something about the ceramic coating would help heat control better so the parts don't bake as much, especially wires.

IDK about you but my hood is closed unless I am working on it so I really don't see anything until then. Also, I am not an aesthetics person so looks make no difference to me especially if it is under the hood. Assuming they have the 1.75 in primaries that I have (for performance) and assuming they are going to last (corrosion since I drive in winter when there is no ice), the only other things I need is to be able to install it and get to things with the least amount of effort. At that point, price wins.

 

My TPIS went in nicely although, I have heard of one guy who had a hard time so, if for the most part it is easy, it's good.

OK. So you are into subsidy then? I'm not. If all things are equal, I'd buy US made. If they are not, I'm not into subsidizing them just because I can afford to. I could care less if the Chinese grind their kids up into the headers. Not my circus, not my monkeys.

 

OBX headers are just fine for 85, and from a power level the 1-5/8" primaries are sized well for a stock engine. (I know some people that used them).
All said and done, You'll probably come out ahead saving a few more dollars going the OBX route, if that is your goal.
But it will be more hassle installing with OBX, because its not just plug and play.
You or your muffler shop are gonna have to do some welding, and make the connecting ends, to get them installed.
You are also gonna have to make spacers for the bolt holes.(not a big deal.) But all that will cost additional labor dollars.

I took the easy route, and went with TPIS for my 85, which is about double the price for parts.
The TPIS are as plug and play as you can get, but my installer still bitched and moaned about the hassle.
With the TPIS, there is one plug port that's a little hard to get to, so I use accel shorty plugs for it. There is one pipe that is super close to the plug wire, and to prevent it from burning, you'll need to wrap it with something like those fiberglass matt wire shields, or use a ceramic boot wires (accell makes them).
You also have to dimple in a little bit one or two of the pipes with a screw driver, if you want to use stock bolts.
But the TPIS has 5 huge advantages.
-Its 1-3/4" instead of just 1-5/8". More flow.
-its got a matching front Ypipe to make the transition to the stock CAT a breeze. And yes that s a tight fit around the trans and starter.
- Its ceramic coated.
- And it fits perfectly, around other accessories. (for ex, you can remove the starter without loosening headers. and no problem getting access to the slave cylinder.)
- 3" diam from collector back.
I highly recommend the TPIS, as the first choice, if your budget will allow.

Id get the OBX over the headman, any day. On a stock engine, Headers really don't add that much power. So its barely worth it.,
But to get any power benefit at all, you really need to go long tube.
Don't worry about tuned (equal length), because it will be impossible to get a good fit.
But if you are doing headers for the purpose of power, you need to consider what your engine build will eventually be.
A smaller diameter header like 1-5/8" is just fine for stock or mildly improved engine. Going larger can actually reduce torque, because it reduces velocity.
However, if you plan to improve the flow of your intake (mini ram / stealth ram) and/or heads, and run hotter cam, stroke, or maybe Super charger, etc, that's really when you need headers, and the larger 1-3/4" pipes are the perfect size and can compliment the build and add significantly more power, and will be an essential part of the plan to reach intended power levels. I wanted, the 1-3/4" tubes, so that my header would handle the growth and evolution of my future engine builds, and they aren't excessively to big for stock either.. .
So if you plan to build your engine bigger down the road, don't waste your time with small 1-5/8" primaries.
.

 

So I save $20 here and spend it somewhere else? Doesn't sound like saving to me especially if you end up with spending $50 to get it right and save $20.

What exactly wasn't fitting right? If I had to replace mine, I'd like to know. They have some scrape marks and I think a dent or two

I don't know which one it is but I have MSD wires and while some are a little close, none have burned but I am using AFR heads so not sure.

Interesting. I didn't dimple anything but IDK if they were different for the non AIR ones.