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Ok, thanks for the comments about how to get to close spark plugs and if they will be close. So I guess they shouldn’t be too hard to get to then just maybe #8 being close to where I either get it underneath or with a special socket. I don’t think I’ll use the spark plug shields just because I don’t like the looks at first but if I see any of them starting to get burnt or melt from the heat I’ll buy new wires and put the sleeves on them.
It’s at the exhaust shop now for them to install the headers tomorrow. I cleaned up the welds some and got new gaskets because I’ve heard the ones that come with them are bad. I also got header bolts for them to use. The welds are pretty smooth now and the gaskets match right up so they should be good, still have to see about plug clearance later.
I read a few of the postings in this thread. You guys are smart to stay away from Exotic Muscle.
his business practice is to sell low quality, I’ll fitting or incorrect products. When you tell him it’s not correct or the wrong product, he act like your car has been wrecked or says he’ll take it back for a restocking fee.
my headers had collectors that exited into the footwell on each side. I had to weld in as “S” to get it to
clear the floors. When I contacted him about this, he said send one side back so he could check it. After a month, he said it fit his welding jigs perfectly and the problem is with my car. I’ve known this car since new as it came off the trailer from BG. it HAS NOT BEEN WRECKED. He then said I could send them back for a restocking fee.
since I refused to be insulted with the fee, and I don’t have the cost for SW headers, I made these work. I needed headers like these for the AFR heads on my car, and most others would not completely uncover the exhaust ports in my heads.
I read a few of the postings in this thread. You guys are smart to stay away from Exotic Muscle.
his business practice is to sell low quality, I’ll fitting or incorrect products. When you tell him it’s not correct or the wrong product, he act like your car has been wrecked or says he’ll take it back for a restocking fee.
my headers had collectors that exited into the footwell on each side. I had to weld in as “S” to get it to
clear the floors. When I contacted him about this, he said send one side back so he could check it. After a month, he said it fit his welding jigs perfectly and the problem is with my car. I’ve known this car since new as it came off the trailer from BG. it HAS NOT BEEN WRECKED. He then said I could send them back for a restocking fee.
since I refused to be insulted with the fee, and I don’t have the cost for SW headers, I made these work. I needed headers like these for the AFR heads on my car, and most others would not completely uncover the exhaust ports in my heads.
I’m thinking mine will be ready for pickup tomorrow. They started Wednesday but they don’t line up perfectly they said so they’re getting a small oil filter so that’s out of the way, the one on it was one of those giant ones that look like it’d be on a truck. Hey said they will be able to make them work though, I’ll let you know whatever they needed to change if they do modify them in some way.
I read a few of the postings in this thread. You guys are smart to stay away from Exotic Muscle.
his business practice is to sell low quality, I’ll fitting or incorrect products. When you tell him it’s not correct or the wrong product, he act like your car has been wrecked or says he’ll take it back for a restocking fee.
my headers had collectors that exited into the footwell on each side. I had to weld in as “S” to get it to
clear the floors. When I contacted him about this, he said send one side back so he could check it. After a month, he said it fit his welding jigs perfectly and the problem is with my car. I’ve known this car since new as it came off the trailer from BG. it HAS NOT BEEN WRECKED. He then said I could send them back for a restocking fee.
since I refused to be insulted with the fee, and I don’t have the cost for SW headers, I made these work. I needed headers like these for the AFR heads on my car, and most others would not completely uncover the exhaust ports in my heads.
Thank you for posting this, I am considering a few manufactures and this made it easy to cross EM off the list
Thank you for posting this, I am considering a few manufactures and this made it easy to cross EM off the list
I will be sure to post some pictures of mine and let you know if anything needed modified when the shop is done installing so you can see if you want the kind that I got. I think everyone likes TPIS the best but they are so expensive and I like having stainless ones so you don’t have to worry about scratching the ceramic coating and making a spot easy to rust away. And you can always keep the stainless really shiny by polishing them up if they get dull or brown colored.
Well some of you were right and I wouldn’t recommend the eBay phab headers to anyone. They didn’t fit at all and I didn’t think I could return them so I told the exhaust shop to see if there was any way they could make them fit even if they had to cut them. So they had to pretty much replace two whole primary tubes on the driver side. It didn’t fit between the frame while lining up to the cylinder head. Now one pipe hangs down really low and I’m going to have to get new ones soon. The passenger wide wasn’t horrible, just the number 8 tube needed dented pretty far to clear the condenser I think it’s called. But the seller did at least make it right when i complained to them and they gave a full refund back. So I can’t complain that much about them.
That looks really bad. One mini speed bump and your #4 exhaust will be closed. Cut your losses (what you paid the shop) and get a set of ARH headers. Is that primary the one the shop spliced?
Yeah, it didn’t fit the way it was before so they bent it around them and added some more tubing. I’m hoping they last just a while til maybe next year sometime because I’m saving up for a FIRST intake, edelbrock e street or afr 190 heads, and a cam and I will just get some hedmans then to put on. I will delete the air pump then too.
They make a bunch of them at a cheap price, sell them cheap and like additives, they are cheap enough most will just expect little, get little and cut their losses of time and money trying to make it work. For the few that squawk, they return the money and call it "cost of doing business". I'd pass on that exhaust shop seeing as they are stupid and/or greedy enough to do the job. First time that happened, I'd have called the owner and show him the mess and advice him, assuming he is smart enough to listen, return the thing. NFW would I tag my name to that pile of whatever it is. Calling it a POS is an insult to ****.
I always say, good stuff won't be cheap because it can't be nor does it have to be. Cheap stuff isn't good because it can't be.
That looks really bad. One mini speed bump and your #4 exhaust will be closed. Cut your losses (what you paid the shop) and get a set of ARH headers. Is that primary the one the shop spliced?
From the pic, all it will take is some unevenness in the road. I guess the old joke of "How's it hanging there?" applies? Answer would be "About an inch above the ground.".
Yeah, it didn’t fit the way it was before so they bent it around them and added some more tubing. I’m hoping they last just a while til maybe next year sometime because I’m saving up for a FIRST intake, edelbrock e street or afr 190 heads, and a cam and I will just get some hedmans then to put on. I will delete the air pump then too.
They make a bunch of them at a cheap price, sell them cheap and like additives, they are cheap enough most will just expect little, get little and cut their losses of time and money trying to make it work. For the few that squawk, they return the money and call it "cost of doing business". I'd pass on that exhaust shop seeing as they are stupid and/or greedy enough to do the job. First time that happened, I'd have called the owner and show him the mess and advice him, assuming he is smart enough to listen, return the thing. NFW would I tag my name to that pile of whatever it is. Calling it a POS is an insult to ****.
I always say, good stuff won't be cheap because it can't be nor does it have to be. Cheap stuff isn't good because it can't be.
I'm running stainless OBX headers on my Formula (800+hp) and they are fantastic.
I think the incompetent exhaust shop screwed the pooch on this one.
I'm running stainless OBX headers on my Formula (800+hp) and they are fantastic.
I think the incompetent exhaust shop screwed the pooch on this one.
-- Joe
Shouldn't headers be just drop in? Does your OBX need to be cut? I can see removing the starter or a couple of things but cutting it apart? I might as well build my own from header parts. I don't know what you think but a good shop would probably tell you to take them back and forget the deal when you get to the cutting point.
I have melrose headers on my 84 with edlebrock heads.
Not sure if it makes a difference with the plug access, but it's a pita!
I have 3 exhaust gaskets to give me enough space for the plug wires, and i still run the MSD "race" plug boots to give me more clearance.
I have not had a melted plug yet...
I also have to loosen the driver side header in order to change one of the plugs since it sits right under a tube.
And i choose the melrose setup since it came with the entire system, bolted to my existing mufflers (once i had a muffler shop expand them successfully from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 in).
Now i run a set of flow master 40 mufflers using the full 3in pipes.
I now run it with a second x-pipe ordered from melrose, i love the sound!
Shouldn't headers be just drop in? Does your OBX need to be cut? I can see removing the starter or a couple of things but cutting it apart? I might as well build my own from header parts. I don't know what you think but a good shop would probably tell you to take them back and forget the deal when you get to the cutting point.
The OBX just dropped in and fit everything in the chassis. I'm not sure why his muffler shop cut the headers, but I'm willing to bet incompetence. I can't even begin to guess what that primary would have hit..
Looking at the pictures of an un-modified header and the headers on his car, it looks like they relocated the #7 primary.
The OBX just dropped in and fit everything in the chassis. I'm not sure why his muffler shop cut the headers, but I'm willing to bet incompetence. I can't even begin to guess what that primary would have hit..
Looking at the pictures of an un-modified header and the headers on his car, it looks like they relocated the #7 primary.
Again, I ask, what did it hit??
-- Joe
What size is it? I may have to replace my TPIS and I don't know if they are going to be making it at that time.
How does it work with AFR 190cc heads for plug removal? Mine come out without me going under the car and I have no emissions crap. I can remove all plugs easily without wobble sockets
Well they called me and they just said they aren’t going to work at first. They said they went to put them in from the bottom and where they come all together around the collector it’s too far outward and hits the frame. I told them I think it’s past the time of retuning them so if they could make them work any way, even if they could cut them and make it longer or something to just go ahead and do that. So then they cut them and ended up bending that pipe around so it wouldn’t hit the body under there and now it hangs real low.
