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headman. look how tube run accross plug blocking clearance, two plugs blocked. plug 4 and 6 are the difficult access on the driver side. similar situation on pass side
on a side note, regarding cheap header hiting engine mount... its not uncomment to have to lift the enginer (undo the mount) to make room to slide the header in. But once installed, no longer hits the mount. But I guess the problem with the aftermarket ebay stuff is quality control. plenty of people have installed them successfuly. But sometimes get a bad one. also got to have an installer commited to dealing with the extra hassle, and who has the skill set. typically an hourly rate not flat rate. So many shops are just basic parts replacers, sorry the situation happened. but good decission to stick with long tube for your replacement. as there is barely any gain without long. although im concerned your repeating the problem. I found that my car with the hedman header, im able to get all the plugs out after learning which exact tool I needed for each cylinder. so they work. but it still takes me twice as long to swap the plugs than on my car with the tips. headers. and then there is the issue of getting other gauges on the spark plug holes, like doing compression tests or leakdown tests, where the hole wont make the bend radius. its just an ongoing head ache maintaining my car with the headman. I heard the stainlesswork headers also worked ok, except for needing to remove the starter. the hedman long tube are inexpensive, probly under 600 for the ceramic coated ones. But If I ever have to do it again, I'll be doing with the tpis or arh. if I can afford it, I wont do it at all. to me one of the biggest factors is ease of maintenance after the headers are on.
Say I have the skills to make it work. I'd charge by the hour. At the end of the day, you may have spent more than you save going cheap and it is less accessible. The other guy paid more upfront but less for installing and easier to access. Which one got it cheaper, especially when you have a "do over" and factor in aggravation? Is it cheaper when spending less today but over the years, more?
I just ordered the hedman elite headers and I went ahead and the air pump eliminator bracket too. I wasn’t planning on it but we changed the valve covers yesterday and it sounds like the air pump is going bad when you spin it and there’s a little whine you can hear when the car is running. I’m hoping the hedman headers aren’t on backorder at jegs, it said they’d ship tomorrow but then said something about backorder after I placed the order. We decided we needed them because the headers started rattling against the floor and heated up the floor around the gas pedal area because they were touching the floor there. Plus they scrape the road over certain bumps.
I removed all the air pumps pipes and divereter valves, one thing I wondered is what anyone does with this pipe that was attached to one of them here.
It’s right by the water pump and I don’t think it can be removed. Is it fine to just leave it there or should I block it off with something or what? I will plug those vaccum lines that attached to the air pump diverter valves with something but I don’t know what I should do with that pipe. Thanks for any help.
I removed all the air pumps pipes and divereter valves, one thing I wondered is what anyone does with this pipe that was attached to one of them here.
It’s right by the water pump and I don’t think it can be removed. Is it fine to just leave it there or should I block it off with something or what? I will plug those vaccum lines that attached to the air pump diverter valves with something but I don’t know what I should do with that pipe. Thanks for any help.
Iirc that's the one that goes down to the cat. I'd just cap it.
No the one that goes to the car runs by the passenger exhaust manifold and I already removed that one. Do you think I should just put a rubber hose over it and screw a bolt into that to cap it?
I’ll look at it more tomorrow but I think it’s the valve corvette_bob was saying to connect the hose to if you were to keep the air pump. I think it’s the one that the air pump pushes air to when it’s not calling for it to be pumped through the manifolds and cat so it just pumps the air down and away from everything.
That looks like the pipe that goes from each header to the pump. You either have to remove some stuff or cut it to get it off.
Hope the Headmans work out for you. I have TPIS and if I ever have to do headers again due to something happening to mine I'll go TPIS again. Fit is perfect and everything is easy to work on.
That looks like the pipe that goes from each header to the pump. You either have to remove some stuff or cut it to get it off.
Hope the Headmans work out for you. I have TPIS and if I ever have to do headers again due to something happening to mine I'll go TPIS again. Fit is perfect and everything is easy to work on.
IIRC, those go from the exhaust outlets and into a log which has a check valve. From there it goes to the rubber tube but take it with a grain of salt since it was an eternity ago I had it.
I removed all the air pumps pipes and divereter valves, one thing I wondered is what anyone does with this pipe that was attached to one of them here.
It’s right by the water pump and I don’t think it can be removed. Is it fine to just leave it there or should I block it off with something or what? I will plug those vaccum lines that attached to the air pump diverter valves with something but I don’t know what I should do with that pipe. Thanks for any help.
I recently removed the air pump stuff from my 85. That looks like the intake pipe for the pump. It had some filter looking thing on the bottom. I managed to remove mine.
I recently removed the air pump stuff from my 85. That looks like the intake pipe for the pump. It had some filter looking thing on the bottom. I managed to remove mine.
Do you know how you removed it? I thought it might be just those two nuts holding it on but then I thought I remembered others saying to just leave that one their because it can’t be removed so I didn’t mess with it. I’ll be looking at it more tomorrow, and the headers should be here tomorrow too. Then the air pump delete will be here Thursday.
Last edited by 85 CRVET; May 28, 2019 at 07:15 PM.
Do you know how you removed it? I thought it might be just those two nuts holding it on but then I thought I remembered others saying to just leave that one their because it can’t be removed so I didn’t mess with it. I’ll be looking at it more tomorrow, and the headers should be here tomorrow too. Then the air pump delete will be here Thursday.
I thought it just had a tab or 2 with bolts in it. There's no harm leaving it there though.
I’ll look at it more tomorrow but I think it’s the valve corvette_bob was saying to connect the hose to if you were to keep the air pump. I think it’s the one that the air pump pushes air to when it’s not calling for it to be pumped through the manifolds and cat so it just pumps the air down and away from everything.
That is the one I was talking about for venting the air from the pump. I’m pretty sure you can take it off with no consequences.
I recently removed the air pump stuff from my 85. That looks like the intake pipe for the pump. It had some filter looking thing on the bottom. I managed to remove mine.
Thanks I took that other air pump pipe off, it was just the two nuts holding it on and it was that filter looking thing at the bottom of it. I also got the headers on today. They fit good, it’s kind of hard to get to spark plugs like you guys said but there’s plenty of clearance for everything else unlike the other headers that are hitting the floor board. I had to start it just a second to hear it with open headers. I took a small video of the sound but it won’t upload for some reason. I didn’t get a picture of the passenger side but even that side was pretty easy to put on, I didn’t even have to remove the starter. I just took the two main bolts out and left the bracket holding it up there so that it could move a little. The drivers side just slid right in from the top and didn’t even need pushed in or anything because it fit good.
Thanks I took that other air pump pipe off, it was just the two nuts holding it on and it was that filter looking thing at the bottom of it.
They fit good, it’s kind of hard to get to spark plugs like you guys said but there’s plenty of clearance for everything else unlike the other headers that are hitting the floor board.
Did you plug up the cat when you took off the AIR pipe going to it?
I thought you said the headers had plenty of clearance so how is it hard to get to the spark plugs? I thought the issue was that the headers phabulous headers was that it was a little close to the ground?
Did you plug up the cat when you took off the AIR pipe going to it?
I thought you said the headers had plenty of clearance so how is it hard to get to the spark plugs? I thought the issue was that the headers phabulous headers was that it was a little close to the ground?
No I haven’t messed with the rest of the exhaust yet. I’m going to take it somewhere to have them weld the air tube that would go to the cat, it was just into exhaust pipes on mine since I don’t have any cats. I will measure to see where the header adapters need welded on too and have the place put in an o2 sensor bung. The other headers were too low to the ground plus we found out when driving it home from over an hour away that they were touching the floorboard near the gas pedal. It got so hot you could feel it easily and they were starting to rattle against the floor so yeah these fit a lot better and we knew they needed change as soon as possible after that. I think you could still change the plugs without loosening the header but I just put them in while they were loose.
Can you get a picture from the bottom with the car jacked up?
I'm assuming the problem was the #7 primary was hitting the motor mount clamshell.
-- Joe
Here’s some pictures I took. I couldn’t really get any good with the headers installed still. I’ll get a picture of how they dented the header to try to make it work and still wasn’t far enough away too. The header was against the floor and almost melted a hole through it. And those were the pipes they didn’t even mess with so I wouldn’t recommend you to try some of these. One thing I wanted to ask is what any of you do when you have dual pipes and headers. When I took the exhaust off the only thing holding up the pipes was the hangers on the tailpipes and the connection at the headers. I don’t have any cats so that keeps it lighter but is this ok because the hedman headers said they could crack with weight on the headers like that?
Then the air pump delete will be here Thursday.
I took a small video of the sound but it won’t upload for some reason. I didn’t get a picture of the passenger side but even that side was pretty easy to put on, I didn’t even have to remove the starter. I just took the two main bolts out and left the bracket holding it up there so that it could move a little. The drivers side just slid right in from the top and didn’t even need pushed in or anything because it fit good.
