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6speed gear shift nob removal

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Old 11-04-2002, 07:41 PM
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sal.b
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Default 6speed gear shift *** removal

how do you remove the rivet pin on the stock 6-speed **** to put on a new ****?
Old 11-04-2002, 08:09 PM
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kspurr
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Default Re: 6speed gear shift *** removal (sal.b)

If you just want to take the **** off, just wedge a flathead under the edge of the pin, push towards your dash, and it will lift up. It won't come out all the way. You should then notice that you can unscrew the ****.

:smash:
Old 11-04-2002, 08:36 PM
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Mr Mojo
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Default Re: 6speed gear shift *** removal (sal.b)

Clamp a small pair of vise grips onto the wedge. Tap lightly with a hammer in an upward motion, the "T" wedge will come out and then you can unscrew the ****. Don't try to wiggle it out.
Old 11-04-2002, 09:07 PM
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Default Re: 6speed gear shift *** removal (sal.b)

Iv'e tried all the tricks (using the search function on the forum to find all of them), and I still can't get mine off... Iv'e used so much force that i have sheared the corner off of the pin (hammering upward on 2 sets of vise grips to make an "L" shape). Any new ideas that will not risk injury to myself, shift ****, or interior? :cheers:
EDIT: Well I just went out to the garage with renewed vigor and with the 3lb mini sledge hammer, was able to get it off. Now I will have to think about what kind I want to put on. My old momo shadow seems too tall, some of their new ones are nice. :smash: :smash: :smash:


[Modified by C4DC, 2:44 AM 11/5/2002]
Old 05-19-2011, 05:42 PM
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Silvr.Bullet
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I have used a 3 lb mini sledge and still can't get that @#&*! cotter key out! I've chewed up the end of the cotter key so bad I can't get a good grip on it with the vise grips any more. I don't see the point of hammering the SOB in during manufacture in the first place!

Does anyone have any additional ideas? If I cut off the old shift **** will that give me better access to the cotter key? Can I drill it out? What if I cut off and remove the old ****, then cut the cotter key off flush....will I then be able to screw on the new ****? My '96 CE has 189,000 miles on it and some of the leather has worn of the shift ****, so leaving the old **** on is not a very good option.
Old 05-19-2011, 06:33 PM
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RollaMo-LT4
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Originally Posted by Silvr.Bullet
I have used a 3 lb mini sledge and still can't get that @#&*! cotter key out! I've chewed up the end of the cotter key so bad I can't get a good grip on it with the vise grips any more. I don't see the point of hammering the SOB in during manufacture in the first place!

Does anyone have any additional ideas? If I cut off the old shift **** will that give me better access to the cotter key? Can I drill it out? What if I cut off and remove the old ****, then cut the cotter key off flush....will I then be able to screw on the new ****? My '96 CE has 189,000 miles on it and some of the leather has worn of the shift ****, so leaving the old **** on is not a very good option.
Another old thread from the grave.
Anyway, there are hundreds of threads on how to get the **** off.
Here is a post with pictures that should help.
Shows exactly what that "wedge" looks like, and how one member removed it.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575704783-post10.html
Old 05-19-2011, 10:54 PM
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Silvr.Bullet
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4
Another old thread from the grave.
Anyway, there are hundreds of threads on how to get the **** off.
Here is a post with pictures that should help.
Shows exactly what that "wedge" looks like, and how one member removed it.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575704783-post10.html
Alright Mr. smart-a**, did you even bother to read my full post? I said that the top of the key is so chewed up from trying to remove it that I can't grip it with a vise grip or get a pry bar under it any more. What I need is is an ORIGINAL idea. Got any?...I doubt it.
Old 05-20-2011, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Silvr.Bullet
Alright Mr. smart-a**, did you even bother to read my full post? I said that the top of the key is so chewed up from trying to remove it that I can't grip it with a vise grip or get a pry bar under it any more. What I need is is an ORIGINAL idea. Got any?...I doubt it.
Hey, I'm not the one having trouble. I can get my shift **** off any time I need too.
You asked for advice, and I gave you a post with pictures.

Take a cutting torch to it for all I care. That will get the **** off.
Better yet, bring your car over and I'll take it off for you.

With your attitude, you'll get lots of help here.
Old 05-20-2011, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Silvr.Bullet
Alright Mr. smart-a**, did you even bother to read my full post? I said that the top of the key is so chewed up from trying to remove it that I can't grip it with a vise grip or get a pry bar under it any more. What I need is is an ORIGINAL idea. Got any?...I doubt it.
Wow, you really know how to make friends!

Drill a d@mn hole, tap it, put a screw in it, and use a slide hammer. That's my original idea for someone who may have buggered the wedge up more than I remember described in 8yrs here.

If that doesn't work, remove the whole mess and put a short-throw shifter in it!

Last edited by GREGGPENN; 05-20-2011 at 12:35 AM.
Old 05-20-2011, 10:19 AM
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Thanks...that's an ORIGINAL idea, I'll try it! I also thought about drilling and tapping the key and screwing on a small metal plate to pry against. Finally, if it absolutely won't come out....and I'm beginning to think that it won't....would it be feasable to cut away the old ****, cut the key off flush with the top of the shift lever; then drill out the new shift **** so that it slides onto the shift lever fillied with silicone sealant to hold it in place.
Old 05-20-2011, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Silvr.Bullet
...would it be feasable to cut away the old ****, cut the key off flush with the top of the shift lever;
then drill out the new shift **** so that it slides onto the shift lever fillied with silicone sealant to hold it in place.
Alrighty then.
Old 05-20-2011, 02:19 PM
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I would get a C4 shifter wedge puller myself. Call Mid Am and ask them for one.

If that doesn't work there's always the easy thingy slide silicone. And for those really hard to get out wedges there's the never fail; hold your nose and run around the car yelling momma. It doesn't actually help in the removal but I thought you could take pictures and send them to us.

The lesson learned here is take assistance from those who offer without being a dick!
Old 05-20-2011, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RetiredSFC 97


The lesson learned here is take assistance from those who offer without being a dick!

Old 05-20-2011, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RetiredSFC 97



The lesson learned here is take assistance from those who offer without being a dick!



Don't come on the forum and start talking crap to every day users, you will get no where.
Old 05-22-2011, 06:01 PM
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Well...I finally got it off. First I tried drilling and inserting a bolt with a washer and using a pry bar....the bolt snapped off! Running around the car hollerin mommy didn't help a bit. Having a beer and a shot help a little...me, not the car. I finally got a hack saw and cut the damn **** off; and while I was trying to pull the tattered plastic **** off, the key popped out of the back off the slot. I AM INVINCIBLE!! As my wife said "Is there nothing you can't do?" The slot in the shift lever to recieve the key was machined a tad too narrow. I had to grind down and grease the new key to get it in. The new knb sure looks good!

Last edited by Silvr.Bullet; 05-22-2011 at 06:04 PM.
Old 05-22-2011, 07:01 PM
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easily impressed?
Old 06-05-2011, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Silvr.Bullet
I don't see the point of hammering the SOB in during manufacture in the first place!
With lift-ring setups (for reverse lock-out), it kinda blocks the ability to use a jam nut under the ****. So, they needed an alternative to stop rotation to prevent the **** from backing off. But, not just that. If you put the wedge in lightly, the **** will buzz/vibrate. (I've tried it.)

The wedge has to "lock" the **** as if it were one piece with the linkage shaft.

Probably because of complaints, broken lock-rings, buzzing, etc..., GM finally smartened up. Somewhere around 1995, the convert the ZF's to a crash-thru setup. That eliminated the lock-ring, but I'm not sure they were smart enough to eliminate the wedge.

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