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Purchased 96 Corvette about a month ago with clutch slipping 15700 miles on it. Just removed clutch. Clutch is GM original . LUK dual mass fly wheel. Valeo pressure plate. Bell housing full of black jell like gunk. First thought was rear main seal leak. But it doesn't appear to have been leaking that much. Next thought input shaft seal in transmission. I have no way of knowing if a lot of engine oil or transmission lube was added before I got the car. I do know he clutch salve cylinder and clutch master cylinder was replaced just before I bought it
Could the Black jell like gung be brake fluid and clutch dust?
The clutch was worn but not gone. Fly wheel, pressure plate and clutch surface were slick and greasy. Not much evidence of heat on flywheel or pressure plate from clutch slipping. Clutch was not glazed over like I would expect from slipping
My theory previous owners run a lot of brake fluid through leaking slave cylinder causing the gunk I see and the clutch slip. Degreaser didn't seem to phase the gunk in the bell housing either.
Only engine oil leak I found appears to be a minor leak around oil filter housing. I say minor because bottom of car was mostly clean and dry. All the gunk was in bell housing.
Replacing rear engine seal and oil filter housing seals anyway. Also replacing input and output shaft seal in transmission. Installing new LUK clutch kit. GM fluted pilot bushing. And new Moog U joints. ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR ME BEFORE I PUT HER BACK TOGETHER?
Mostly I'd agree with your approach. Do yourself a favor: if that's an original Valeo pressure plate and INA throwout bearing, do not throw them away! They will be of vastly better quality than any new replacement you can buy now. If they look to be in good condition, they could be reused later with a new disk if your Luk replacement ever fails. The PP can be resurfaced if necessary, provided the machinist knows how to properly do that (make sure the pedestals get machined an equal amount). Make sure the bearing isn't leaking grease. Then put them on a shelf in a box for safe keeping.
Mostly I'd agree with your approach. Do yourself a favor: if that's an original Valeo pressure plate and INA throwout bearing, do not throw them away! They will be of vastly better quality than any new replacement you can buy now. If they look to be in good condition, they could be reused later with a new disk if your Luk replacement ever fails. The PP can be resurfaced if necessary, provided the machinist knows how to properly do that (make sure the pedestals get machined an equal amount). Make sure the bearing isn't leaking grease. Then put them on a shelf in a box for safe keeping.
Pressure Plate looks good. Throw out bearing seems a little stiff but it was quiet and working well. I don't think I would have had to do anything to it if not for the greasy gunk that got on the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. I never saw a pressure plate, flywheel or clutch with a greasy residue on that you could wipe off with your finger before. I thought about using the original Valeo pressure plate instead of the LUK. Use to be a common practiceto replace the clutch disc only. Doesn't look like the pressure plate or flywheel ever got hot.
Pressure Plate looks good. Throw out bearing seems a little stiff but it was quiet and working well. I don't think I would have had to do anything to it if not for the greasy gunk that got on the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. I never saw a pressure plate, flywheel or clutch with a greasy residue on that you could wipe off with your finger before. I thought about using the original Valeo pressure plate instead of the LUK. Use to be a common practiceto replace the clutch disc only. Doesn't look like the pressure plate or flywheel ever got hot.
BTW, I agree about the gunk causing your problems, for sure. If it were me, I'd be really tempted to replace just the disk. If the engine is still stock and not being drag raced, I'd stick with an organic disk to maintain good manners on the street.