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Hey guys, I'm trying to plan out my LS swap and one thing I am having trouble figuring out it how to mount an A/C compressor?
I currently have a brand new Corvette accessory drive from GM performance (without A/C). My car is an 88 so the original compressor is the denso version (not R4). I think my original compressor is shot anyway...
Is there bracket kit avaliable bolt on a Saden compressor that will clear the UCA/mount? I have not seen much info on this.
I know its not much help cause my accessory drive is so different, but it came with the Sanden SD7 compressor and that thing is small. Could squeeze it in somewhere i'm sure
I know its not much help cause my accessory drive is so different, but it came with the Sanden SD7 compressor and that thing is small. Could squeeze it in somewhere i'm sure
Yes, the accessory drive you used is very nice and seems to work well in our cars. I just didn't have the $ in my budget for it, so I'm hoping to find another way to make it work with the GMPP corvette accessory drive.
My swap is done like this one. >>>>> https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...-c4-corvettes/
My K member was hacked to allow the stock c5 A/C compressor location. This obviously isn't my car in the photos but it looks practically identical.
I removed all the A/C stuff for weight savings as the car is a nighttime or good weather cruiser. I was able to remove the compressor fairly easily but I did have to remove the T-Stat housing to get it past the rack and front support.
If money is of concern, this is probably the cheapest way to do it.
Thank you for taking the time to weigh in Krusty84.
Money is of some concern of course, although I have allowed a bit in my budget to deal with the A/C.
I'm not sure if the weather is getting hotter or i'm just getting older but having A/C in the car again is of increasing importance to me.
I removed the A/C when I did my build to clean up the engine bay and for years I had not used the working A/C in the car. I used to just drive the car in theevening and did a number of races a year. Now with a young family I have only occasional time for evening drives so most of the time I drive the corvette its during warm sunny days that I take it to work so it would be nice to have when its hot out during the day.
The LS swap for me is all about maintaing the current performace but getting much better manners and A/C will be part of that. I'm still hopping there is a bolt on bracket kit that may work but we will see...
How hard was it to make the LS style compressor work with the rest of the C4 A/C stuff on your car?
Also my only concern with notching the K member is that it will reduce the structural rigidity. Were you able to fit enough re-enforcements in to the notched area to make it as strong as stock?
Thank you for taking the time to weigh in Krusty84.
Money is of some concern of course, although I have allowed a bit in my budget to deal with the A/C.
I'm not sure if the weather is getting hotter or i'm just getting older but having A/C in the car again is of increasing importance to me.
I removed the A/C when I did my build to clean up the engine bay and for years I had not used the working A/C in the car. I used to just drive the car in theevening and did a number of races a year. Now with a young family I have only occasional time for evening drives so most of the time I drive the corvette its during warm sunny days that I take it to work so it would be nice to have when its hot out during the day.
The LS swap for me is all about maintaing the current performace but getting much better manners and A/C will be part of that. I'm still hopping there is a bolt on bracket kit that may work but we will see...
How hard was it to make the LS style compressor work with the rest of the C4 A/C stuff on your car?
Also my only concern with notching the K member is that it will reduce the structural rigidity. Were you able to fit enough re-enforcements in to the notched area to make it as strong as stock?
The swap was done by the previous owner and the A/C was never fully hooked up when I bought it. I had no real interest in it so I just pulled it all out. The previous owner did reinforce the opposite side like the photos in the link I provided but since I wasn't the one that did it, I just don't know what it was like before to answer any questions on rigidity. I was a little concerned when I noticed it but after seeing photos of how the C4 K member is constructed, I figure the rigidity issue is minimal.
I figure 90+% of C4 owners would most likely figure out some other way to get the compressor in there than notching the K member but figured I would share what is most likely the cheapest option.
I have the C5 accessory kit on my car. You could trim out the k member and reforced by welding brace in other ways to get lower AC unit to fit. I have also tried the Holley AC passenger R4 bracket, but the R4 unit hits my hood slightly. You could trim the hood slightly and it would fit. The standen unit is a quite abit smaller (but the AC lines stick out on the side and may cause issues). I guess that it would fit up above if you wanted to try. I plan to install mine down low, as I want to use the upper area for a turbo or supercharger. Honestly you have lots of options these days for AC
Running the LS engine you will get a whole bunch more easy daily driving HP. David, even that stock LS2 engine you have will alot of fun as is.
In this swap on a 1991, they used the dirty dingo high mount A/C bracket with a saden SD7 compressor. They said it might have fit if they had not moved the engine as far forward as thier adjustable mounts allowed. Even then it was just that the tensioner was to close to the UCA mount. So they just slightly trimed the bracket and drilled a new hole for the tensioner a little farther upwards and everything was able to fit.
I also looked on the Saden website and you can get the SD7 compressor with hoses that come out the back instead of the top.
This maybe the route I go... just not sure how hard it is to adapt the rest of the A/C system to use a SD7 compressor?
In this swap on a 1991, they used the dirty dingo high mount A/C bracket with a saden SD7 compressor. They said it might have fit if they had not moved the engine as far forward as thier adjustable mounts allowed. Even then it was just that the tensioner was to close to the UCA mount. So they just slightly trimed the bracket and drilled a new hole for the tensioner a little farther upwards and everything was able to fit.
I also looked on the Saden website and you can get the SD7 compressor with hoses that come out the back instead of the top.
This maybe the route I go... just not sure how hard it is to adapt the rest of the A/C system to use a SD7 compressor?
I am about to figure this out for myself. My hoses come out the back. I am going to go to Napa because they make hoses for hydraulics and other ****. I bet you can buy the fittings and flexible hoses on summit
I am about to figure this out for myself. My hoses come out the back. I am going to go to Napa because they make hoses for hydraulics and other ****. I bet you can buy the fittings and flexible hoses on summit
I will be very interested to see what it takes for you to get your A/C working. Thanks for the tip about NAPA. My house is just a couple min from thier western canadian regional head quarters and distribution hub. I will see what they can make when the time comes.
So the A/C hose/line plumbing is one issue, how about the electrical? Does anyone know if it all just hooks up (maybe with different pig tails) or does the a saden or newer GM compressor require some sort of rewiring of the HVAC controls?
I will be very interested to see what it takes for you to get your A/C working. Thanks for the tip about NAPA. My house is just a couple min from thier western canadian regional head quarters and distribution hub. I will see what they can make when the time comes.
So the A/C hose/line plumbing is one issue, how about the electrical? Does anyone know if it all just hooks up (maybe with different pig tails) or does the a saden or newer GM compressor require some sort of rewiring of the HVAC controls?
As far as I know under the dash of my 85 there is a 3-pin connector. It comes from the climate control head unit. two of the wires go to the compressor and one of the wires goes to the computer indicating that the AC is on and to start the cooling fan and raise the idle. with the r4 compressor you can ground one of the terminals and jump the other one to 12 volts and the clutch will pop in and out. I am assuming the sanden is the same way, so I'm going to flip the AC to "on" and verify which terminal is 12 volts and feed it accordingly
What about this? I do think you'll need a rear exit compressor for hood clearance though.
For the wiring, the compressor clutch will be controlled by the output side of a pressure cycling switch. When both pressure switches close, (there are two in-line) 12v flows to the clutch to engage, pressure builds, the switch opens and clutch disengages. You should be able to just tap into the original 12v feed to compressor (after the switches of course) and all the control head unit wiring you don't mess with. You may need to run an alternate ground from the compressor clutch, plenty of places to ground under the hood.
I just got my AC working yesterday on my LS swap using my original R4 compressor and Holley installation kit. I made the lines using parts from Nostalgic AC, but yeah, a local hose shop should have what you need too.
You can check out my thread, I'm about to update it tonight..
Hey Capt, you have any pictures of the set-up installed in a C4? Awesome build C4 and a LS3. I could only dream on running a 6.2L engine. I can't wait to see someone put a Lt1 or LT2 or LT4 into one of these cars.
This LS3 with Nelson Racing twin mirror image Turbos are in my '37 Chevy Build, not my old C4,, it's next. But the '37 does have all C4 suspension, except the Diffy (on a new custom frame w roll cage), C6 Steering column, C6 instrument panel, C5 wheels and C6 seats. and an Carbon Fiber body. If I could have found a decent C2 body I would have gone that way instantly.
However, I do have my C4 on the rack, just replaced the clutch master and slave, gads what a pita to bleed. I'm going to replace the whinnying P steer pump, and I would like to delete the AIR pump,, move the AC compressor and alternator. But until I get them removed (hope to start next week) I don't know it the tight tuck kit will fit. I've ever liked that ugly AIR pump and the Alt up high.
I can get some measurements for you if you need. But on the LS3 the frame rail are 24 (23.75) inches wide on the inside at the engine accessories area. Should give you a good idea. The alt is a full size C6 LS 145 amp I think.
Here's some pics, let me know what you else you'd like to see.
Holy crap those NRE mirror image turbo motors are epic.
Originally Posted by Capt Mike
Mike,
This LS3 with Nelson Racing twin mirror image Turbos are in my '37 Chevy Build, not my old C4,, it's next. But the '37 does have all C4 suspension, except the Diffy (on a new custom frame w roll cage), C6 Steering column, C6 instrument panel, C5 wheels and C6 seats. and an Carbon Fiber body. If I could have found a decent C2 body I would have gone that way instantly.
However, I do have my C4 on the rack, just replaced the clutch master and slave, gads what a pita to bleed. I'm going to replace the whinnying P steer pump, and I would like to delete the AIR pump,, move the AC compressor and alternator. But until I get them removed (hope to start next week) I don't know it the tight tuck kit will fit. I've ever liked that ugly AIR pump and the Alt up high.
I can get some measurements for you if you need. But on the LS3 the frame rail are 24 (23.75) inches wide on the inside at the engine accessories area. Should give you a good idea. The alt is a full size C6 LS 145 amp I think.
Here's some pics, let me know what you else you'd like to see.
My swap is done like this one. >>>>> https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...-c4-corvettes/
My K member was hacked to allow the stock c5 A/C compressor location. This obviously isn't my car in the photos but it looks practically identical.
I removed all the A/C stuff for weight savings as the car is a nighttime or good weather cruiser. I was able to remove the compressor fairly easily but I did have to remove the T-Stat housing to get it past the rack and front support.
If money is of concern, this is probably the cheapest way to do it.
That guide shows a backa$$wArds switch to a returnless fuel system - inferior to the c4’s system which has both feed and return lines !! -especially if you wanna add big HP boost later.
the first thing boosted c5 guys do (well 99+) is find the 97-98 systems with return lines and add that!
LS swap A/C options
