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The typical downfall of most cheaper coilover kits is the poor quality of the dampers. However, these say they use a monotube design, which at least offers the possibility that they don't completely suck. You can bet that they aren't using their own design of damper. It would be very interesting to find out what company and model those dampers actually are.
BC coilovers aren't a no-name type coilover. They've been around for a long time and do great work.
As for a direct comparison vs other brands of C4 specific coilovers? I can't give a direct comparison.
After-all, I use a $140 set of motorcycle coilovers on my car haha.
BC coilovers aren't a no-name type coilover. They've been around for a long time and do great work.
As for a direct comparison vs other brands of C4 specific coilovers? I can't give a direct comparison.
Longevity is something to consider, sure. However, KYBs and Monroe have also been around forever, and they are awful shocks. But they are awful at a super-low price point, and so they may suit some people's needs. About the BCs, I'd really like to know about the damper internals. Whose parts are they using? What valving is being used? Can they do custom valving? If these are actually good dampers, then that's a good price. If they aren't, then it's a terrible price. An example of the former is Ridetech, which use Fox internals and are a steal at their price. BTW, they told me they are working on a C4 application for coilovers, so it may be worth waiting for that.
The other thing to consider with coilovers is the actual perch and attachment design. Some are a lot better than others. And I would be super-careful about how the rears mount to the knuckle - that mounting ear is prone to breakage, and without any bracket then the spring can get in the way of trailing arms. With a bracket, you also increase the leverage arm on the mounting ear. Probably Van Steel is the best commercial option going right now, but I'm not sure any of them are truly satisfactory.
Check with Van Steel for C4 Coilovers. They have QA1's with single and double adjustable Coilovers. The application you are going to run will determine the spring rates you will want to use. Also, important to corner balance and set ride height once you choose rates. If just running on the street you could run whatever height you wanted.
I know this is an old thread but does anyone have the setup for rear coil overs.
I have installed new Bilsteins all the way around on my 96, that was a pretty penny, and a new composite rear spring and the ride is ok but it seems alot more "bouncy" than it should be. I am exploring coil overs for the rear as an option. And of course I need a project...
I know this is an old thread but does anyone have the setup for rear coil overs.
I have installed new Bilsteins all the way around on my 96, that was a pretty penny, and a new composite rear spring and the ride is ok but it seems alot more "bouncy" than it should be. I am exploring coil overs for the rear as an option. And of course I need a project...
Not sure what "bouncy" actually means. If the ride is too harsh, then you need shocks with less damping rate. I would suggest Koni yellows or Ridetech HQs, both set at the lower end of the rebound rates. If your ride is oscillating too much after a suspension displacement, then you need more damping rate to control that. If you're hitting bumpstops, then something is wrong with your ride height or spring rate and you need to look at those things. Just switching from one form factor of spring to another isn't going to change anything. A spring is just a spring: it only has one job, and a monoleaf or coil do that job equally well. Coilovers can make sense in some applications: for example if you want stiffer springs than stock. But they aren't magic.
Not sure what "bouncy" actually means. If the ride is too harsh, then you need shocks with less damping rate. I would suggest Koni yellows or Ridetech HQs, both set at the lower end of the rebound rates. If your ride is oscillating too much after a suspension displacement, then you need more damping rate to control that. If you're hitting bumpstops, then something is wrong with your ride height or spring rate and you need to look at those things. Just switching from one form factor of spring to another isn't going to change anything. A spring is just a spring: it only has one job, and a monoleaf or coil do that job equally well. Coilovers can make sense in some applications: for example if you want stiffer springs than stock. But they aren't magic.
When I first got my car back on the street the ride was harsh. It would bang really hard on any bump. It wasnt hitting the bump stops. The original rear spring had a split in it. I ordered and replaced it with a new one with stock ride. It is 1000 times smoother. But from time to time around my area on a road I have to drive on alot the back in feels like its bouncing, like it would with worn out shocks. I had a 68 mustang once and the rear shock mount broke and the back of the car bounced along and it wouldnt stop. It was awful and funny at the same time. I was 16 at the time and my buddies were giving me hard time for a week while I located the part. Damn I just realized that was 35 years ago. The corvette is NOT nearly like that but it seems it should be a little stiffer back there.
I installed Bilstein B6 and the new composite spring is rated at 228 pounds. I do have 1" longer rear bolts to drop the rear end a 1". I was thinking maybe I need to tighten the bolts to the stock length and see if that helps "tune" that back end a little bit?
Last edited by Furias15x; May 21, 2021 at 10:11 AM.
When I first got my car back on the street the ride was harsh. It would bang really hard on any bump. It wasnt hitting the bump stops. The original rear spring had a split in it. I ordered and replaced it with a new one with stock ride. It is 1000 times smoother. But from time to time around my area on a road I have to drive on alot the back in feels like its bouncing, like it would with worn out shocks...I installed Bilstein B6 and the new composite spring is rated at 228 pounds. I do have 1" longer rear bolts to drop the rear end a 1". I was thinking maybe I need to tighten the bolts to the stock length and see if that helps "tune" that back end a little bit?
It's an easy enough thing to try, so there's no reason not to see if it changes anything. However, the only way that ride height should be an issue for ride quality is if it's actually hitting the bumpstops. 228 isn't a super stiff spring: it's 39.9 N/mm, which is the stock rear spring from a base 85-95 C4. I would expect those Bilsteins to be able to control that pretty well, but it's possible you'd benefit from more rebound damping. It's also possible you'd prefer less compression damping: it always feels to me like Bilsteins tend to have more compression damping than a lot of other shocks.