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If thats OEM working fine, youd be dumb to replace it with anything other than OEM NOS (which isnt easy to find)
id say leave it alone if its fine inside.
inspect the seals make sure they arent cracked. put dielectric greAse on them.
test the vacuum system (it doesnt pull a lot of vacuum just a tiny amount due to the reducer).
may also put rtv silicone around the connector harness entry point and the 2 halves as a fail safe in case the oem seAl cracks.
lastly
do the water pump weep hole mod to direct leaks from a leaky water pump away from the optispark
If thats OEM working fine, youd be dumb to replace it with anything other than OEM NOS (which isnt easy to find)
id say leave it alone if its fine inside.
inspect the seals make sure they arent cracked. put dielectric greAse on them.
test the vacuum system (it doesnt pull a lot of vacuum just a tiny amount due to the reducer).
may also put rtv silicone around the connector harness entry point and the 2 halves as a fail safe in case the oem seAl cracks.
lastly
do the water pump weep hole mod to direct leaks from a leaky water pump away from the optispark
good luck
Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a whack... I took a look in Home Depot for something to drain the water from the water pump, but all the fittings looked a bit big...
At 54k and 23 years I had the optidoctor rebuild mine on my 96.
Interesting, I wasn't sure what the expected lifespan would be on these and whether many would need rebuilding at this kind of mileage. Did you get any indication that there was any problem with yours during the rebuilding process?
Interesting, I wasn't sure what the expected lifespan would be on these and whether many would need rebuilding at this kind of mileage. Did you get any indication that there was any problem with yours during the rebuilding process?
I did not open it up before I sent it in. I did see where the coil wire connected to the opti the connection was solid yellowish thick corrosion. Both in the opti pin and the wire. Back in the day nobody would ever say," My distributer cap and rotor only have 54,000 miles so it should be good." I am 68 so when I got to the opti I wanted it done right. I am not in a giant hurry and have another car to drive. Price out a MSD cap and rotor and you
will see the optidoctor does not charge much to clean up, bead blast, install new bearing and seal the unit up with some real good sealant and TEST. Too much work for me to not have it done right.
Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a whack... I took a look in Home Depot for something to drain the water from the water pump, but all the fittings looked a bit big...
I didn’t have to tap the weep hole since it is aluminum and I used a hardened elbow. I did however use a drill bit the same size as the weep hole to essentially clean it out and de-burr any casting inaccuracies.
I used a 90* grease fitting for the elbow since that was all Lowe’s had. Turned out to be better since it is a hardened part and always in stock. I drilled out the end and removed the inner spring and ball.
I applied a little thread sealant to the elbow threads
Took a pair of vice grips and screwed the elbow into the water pump until it stopped in the position I needed. I ran the drain hose out the passenger side as it was less obstructed and there were other hoses to attach it to.
Nice simple fix. Could this be done with the water pump in the car? I know this might be an ignorant question, but I am not familiar with the layout in there ...
Nice simple fix. Could this be done with the water pump in the car? I know this might be an ignorant question, but I am not familiar with the layout in there ...
I did my weep hole mod with the water pump in the car. I got one of those double-pointed brass barbs (3/16 I think), cut one end down to 2 barbs and carefully filed that end small enough to tightly fit inside the weephole. Took a bit of arm contortion to reach under there with enough force to push it in. But it's snug in the hole and the hose is routed down to the underside of the car.