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If you are handy: I would strongly recommend taking this on as a winter project.
...to this end: based on those pictures: my FIRST course of action would be to get a pressurizing pump/tool to see if the leak could be easily identified from anywhere near the fill area (the expansion/surge tank looks quite suspect to me).
Regarding THIS problem and your Vette: that is an absolutely beautiful example of the last C4 year: If nothing else, someone looks to have kept it very clean and sorted in the body/paint department. If it is a worst case scenario - I would take on the repair to keep it on the road. Then again, my appearance is nowhere near as nice as yours, and I dumped a king's ransom into making it awesome (at least I think...)
Of course, I also have had the engine out of mine, and I can say with some certainty that this is a job (be it "find the leak" or "replace head gaskets") that is pretty easy to tackle so long as you work slow, methodically and take lots of pics. If you end up having to replace the head gasket(s): get the heads re-worked - and angle grind, and machined flat (find a shop that performs these services that you can trust). Only "out of the ordinary" tools that you may need is a nice torque wrench if THAT is the way you end up going.
Late update gents. I ended up taking the car to another mechanic who I have used in the past. Turns out there was NOTHING wrong with the head gasket. The problem was the surge tank which needed to be replaced. Much less repair cost obviously. Heck of a different diagnosis and pretty scary to think what other plans I may have made for the car had I not had a second mechanic inspect the vehicle.
Late update gents. I ended up taking the car to another mechanic who I have used in the past. Turns out there was NOTHING wrong with the head gasket. The problem was the surge tank which needed to be replaced. Much less repair cost obviously. Heck of a different diagnosis and pretty scary to think what other plans I may have made for the car had I not had a second mechanic inspect the vehicle.
Late update gents. I ended up taking the car to another mechanic who I have used in the past. Turns out there was NOTHING wrong with the head gasket. The problem was the surge tank which needed to be replaced. Much less repair cost obviously. Heck of a different diagnosis and pretty scary to think what other plans I may have made for the car had I not had a second mechanic inspect the vehicle.
I've been that second mechanic, and "mysterious coolant loss" (with or without obvious puddles and drips) is often misdiagnosed.
Check your pressure cap, too. Or just replace it if it's over 5 years old. That's the most common cause of coolant lost, and it's commonly overlooked. I've had many cars and trucks through my shops over the years that have taken heavy hits from the parts cannons at other shops before they were brought to me (new thermostats, new water pumps, and sometimes even head gaskets), and the real issue was an old/weak pressure cap.
The mechanic did not go into details on the exact cause of the surge tank failure. He said it was defective and leaking. I was so happy it wasn’t the head gasket I didn’t ask for more details.
I will definitely look into any issues with the pressure cap. Appreciate everything guys.
For about a year, I had been getting the Low Coolant light. Recently, I have done checks to see if I had a leak or a blown head gasket. Today, August 15, 2024, I did two things that told me what I have. I started the car, ran fine, just a little white smoke came out of both tail pipes. I had a full water tank because I topped it off a week ago. I did a radiator pressure test, using 15PSI as my standard. I noticed immediately that the gauge showed the needle moving downward. I re-pressurized it and the same thing happened.
I checked the water and it's level was at the bottom of the black bottle. I pulled the dip stick out and saw a chocolate milk substance where oil would usually be on the dip stick. Only days ago, I checked the oil and it was fine, nice and new from a recent oil change. I started pulling the spark plugs out to see which one was wet from water from the radiator. Plugs 1, 3, 5 came out and were dry. Plug 7 will not come out. Instead of forcing it, I will deal with it when I take the head off. I confirmed that I have a blown head gasket.
My question. Is there a member in the Houston/Sugar Land/Missouri City Texas area who is familiar with replacing a head gasket and willing to lend me a hand?
Normally when ir is a head or gasket problem you wont see a leak, it will usually just leak into the cyliner and either get brt or end up in the oil pan. if your oil is gray it is prob a head cracked or just a gasket. Ot could be from the water pump and draing down the hose before it drops. The hose to the water pump could be the culprit also. It could also be the radiator, I would check all these before yanking the heads off. A cracked head or gasket usually causes rough running issues and a loss of power. While the car is running you can hear bubling in the radiator. Could also be leaking from a freeze plug.
Normally when ir is a head or gasket problem you wont see a leak, it will usually just leak into the cyliner and either get brt or end up in the oil pan. if your oil is gray it is prob a head cracked or just a gasket. Ot could be from the water pump and draing down the hose before it drops. The hose to the water pump could be the culprit also. It could also be the radiator, I would check all these before yanking the heads off. A cracked head or gasket usually causes rough running issues and a loss of power. While the car is running you can hear bubling in the radiator. Could also be leaking from a freeze plug.
Today, Friday, August 16, 2024, I pulled the dip stick and got a milky dip stick. I drained the oil, the milky oil. The drain began with about a quart of water, and the milky oil began.
Two days ago, I started the car and it was idling a little rough. I checked the oil and the oil did not show signs of contamination. I did not start the car again until today, Friday, and I checked the oil afterwards today and found the milky oil on the dip stick. See photos of milky oil.
Today, Friday, August 16, 2024, I pulled the dip stick and got a milky dip stick. I drained the oil, the milky oil. The drain began with about a quart of water, and the milky oil began.
Two days ago, I started the car and it was idling a little rough. I checked the oil and the oil did not show signs of contamination. I did not start the car again until today, Friday, and I checked the oil afterwards today and found the milky oil on the dip stick. See photos of milky oil.
Comments please
I'm not in your area to lend you a hand or I would. But changing head gaskets isn't hard. You need a service manual like an actual FSM or similar. That will walk you through the process. If the thing hasn't over heated you probably don't need any machine work done. If everything went well this is a Saturday afternoon project.
Anytime I see milky oil I'm more concerned about crank bearings than anything on the top end. But if it wasn't run long you should be ok.
I'm not in your area to lend you a hand or I would. But changing head gaskets isn't hard. You need a service manual like an actual FSM or similar. That will walk you through the process. If the thing hasn't over heated you probably don't need any machine work done. If everything went well this is a Saturday afternoon project.
Anytime I see milky oil I'm more concerned about crank bearings than anything on the top end. But if it wasn't run long you should be ok.
Thanks for your response.
A few days ago, I ran the engine, just to keep the fluids flowing. I checked the oil and it was fine. I did not drive the car after that. The very next time that I started the car, a couple of days ago, I did my usual checks and found the water in the tank level at the bottom. No smoke out of the tail pipes, but noticed a little rough engine idle. I did a compression test, 15PSI, and I noticed that the gauge has fallen to about 12PSI. I checked the oil and it was milky. I started pulling plugs to see what cylinder had been affected. I was unable to easily remove number 7 (driver side), so I did not force it to unscrew. I presumed that it was affected from the head gasket failure.
I drained the oil, and the fluid that came out first was about a quart of water, then the milky oil.
I plan to put two quarts of oil in with some diesel and let the engine run for a couple of minutes to wash the milky oil out, when the fluid coming out of the drain is milky oil free, I will remove the heads and replace the gaskets.
The engine did not run long enough to get up to temperature, sure did not over heat.
I purchased an electronic FSM from a nice guy on the forum. I don't remember who it was. I have changed computers and do not have the data from the old computer. I am hoping that he reads this and circle back to me. I need to get the bolt loosening and bolt tightening pattern for the heads. if anyone else has an electronic version, please share, or at least share the bolt loosening and tightening pattern with me - thanks
Last edited by altownsend; Sep 10, 2024 at 07:02 PM.
Reason: more information
I purchased an electronic FSM from a nice guy on the forum. I don't remember who it was. I have changed computers and do not have the data from the old computer. I am hoping that he reads this and circle back to me. I need to get the bolt loosening and bolt tightening pattern for the heads. if anyone else has an electronic version, please share, or at least share the bolt loosening and tightening pattern with me - thanks
Its just a small block chevy pattern. Its not Corvette specific. You don't need an FSM for that.
I want to also confirm that removal is reversal from Number 17 to number 1 - thanks
I'll be honest I never remove head bolts in order. I know you're supposed to but I've never done it. I just use an impact and pull the bolts in any order. I only use the order when bolting them back on. I'm not saying this is how you should do it. Just how I do it.
I'll be honest I never remove head bolts in order. I know you're supposed to but I've never done it. I just use an impact and pull the bolts in any order. I only use the order when bolting them back on. I'm not saying this is how you should do it. Just how I do it.
Thanks for the response. One more question. Since I have read that new bolts should be used, should I get new head bolts? Thanks
Anytime I see milky oil I'm more concerned about crank bearings than anything on the top end. But if it wasn't run long you should be ok.
I would like to expand on this comment by Phobos...antifreeze is extremely harmful to bearings. It will wipe out the bearing's soft metals if run long enough, hence Phobos' comment. I have seen some used oil analyses with a lot of copper/lead wear due to antifreeze contamination. Worst case, you'll have a spun bearing if driven this way.
My advice to you...once the issue is resolved, run conventional oil at idle for 15-20 minutes or until all post-repair diagnoses have been completed, whichever is longest. I would then drain and refill with your favorite oil. This applies to the filter as well. I would not drive the car until that flush is completed.
