Melrose headers impressions
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 165
From: Utah
That's really sad, seems like they could say for offroad use only or something.
I love my melrose headers.
The super shine has dulled a bit, but they are holding up great.
And for your dipstick, lokar makes a nice option that is working great with my headers.
the stock dipstick did not do well long term, it ended up splitting at the bolt "slit" mount.
the lokar looks awesome, but it gets hot.
I love my melrose headers.
The super shine has dulled a bit, but they are holding up great.
And for your dipstick, lokar makes a nice option that is working great with my headers.
the stock dipstick did not do well long term, it ended up splitting at the bolt "slit" mount.
the lokar looks awesome, but it gets hot.
Last edited by Gibbles; Jan 18, 2020 at 05:04 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 165
From: Utah
Also 84 4+3, i see you still have the early steering shaft.
it's a ticking time bomb...
i have a thread where i adapted the later 94 style steering shaft.
much better design!
that or you just drill a hole and pin the shaft, me i was not willing to fk around with a safety feature...
it's a ticking time bomb...
i have a thread where i adapted the later 94 style steering shaft.
much better design!
that or you just drill a hole and pin the shaft, me i was not willing to fk around with a safety feature...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 6,939
Likes: 1,488
From: New Jersey
Also 84 4+3, i see you still have the early steering shaft.
it's a ticking time bomb...
i have a thread where i adapted the later 94 style steering shaft.
much better design!
that or you just drill a hole and pin the shaft, me i was not willing to fk around with a safety feature...
it's a ticking time bomb...
i have a thread where i adapted the later 94 style steering shaft.
much better design!
that or you just drill a hole and pin the shaft, me i was not willing to fk around with a safety feature...
As far as their site, they said offroad use only for the cat free air free system... weird.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,090
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
I have no complaints with my plain (uncoated) Hooker 2151 headers on my 96. I have no AIR hookups to worry about, and I padded a bung in each collector for 02 sensors. They fit just fine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Maybe the cost of two sets of headers(about $500) , 2nd set would be plug and play IF the 1st set rots out. This idea might work as the labor to remove and replace the manifolds with headers(after break in) is costly and that is with $800 - $850 headers. I don't plan on using too much in the rain (rot out) and I understand that condensation is a cause of rot out
The money plays into this, but having to wait to have the oem manifolds removed after break in will cost me in aggravation and delay in using the car.
Just another thought in my header saga.....
Your thoughts??
Last edited by vette196; Jan 20, 2020 at 11:47 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,090
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
I've always heard get "coated" (rust, etc..), but Hooker has a disclaimer saying if you did any motor work you should use old manifolds to break in the motor or you'll ruin the coating which I find ridiculous. Once that baby is done, I'm done I want to drive the damn project, not remove and replace oem manifolds with coated headers.
Maybe the cost of two sets of headers(about $500) , 2nd set would be plug and play IF the 1st set rots out. This idea might work as the labor to remove and replace the manifolds with headers(after break in) is costly and that is with $800 - $850 headers. I don't plan on using too much in the rain (rot out) and I understand that condensation is a cause of rot out
The money plays into this, but having to wait to have the oem manifolds removed after break in will cost me in aggravation and delay in using the car.
Just another thought in my header saga.....
Your thoughts??
Maybe the cost of two sets of headers(about $500) , 2nd set would be plug and play IF the 1st set rots out. This idea might work as the labor to remove and replace the manifolds with headers(after break in) is costly and that is with $800 - $850 headers. I don't plan on using too much in the rain (rot out) and I understand that condensation is a cause of rot out
The money plays into this, but having to wait to have the oem manifolds removed after break in will cost me in aggravation and delay in using the car.
Just another thought in my header saga.....
Your thoughts??
I'm just not sure about whether or not breaking in an engine really harms the coating. I'm also not sure what kind of break-in they have in mind. As noted above by someone else, if you aren't running a flat-tappet cam, then maybe the proper break-in is mostly just driving around and varying the load for a while, without hammering on it. In that case, I can't see how it could possibly harm the coating.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
I don't know about all that. I mean, really, I have no idea. My headers were just the basic painted ones. They definitely acquire a patina of surface rust after a while. But ~15 years in they hadn't worn out or rusted through. I finally had to replace them due to my own failure to maintain (tighten the header bolts), but not because they corroded away. The question then becomes whether or not the appearance of coatings is a bid deal to you, and how much it's worth. If it's important, then it may even be better to buy a set of plain headers, run in the engine, then take them off and have them coated later (I'm not sure if that's possible after they've been used, though).
I'm just not sure about whether or not breaking in an engine really harms the coating. I'm also not sure what kind of break-in they have in mind. As noted above by someone else, if you aren't running a flat-tappet cam, then maybe the proper break-in is mostly just driving around and varying the load for a while, without hammering on it. In that case, I can't see how it could possibly harm the coating.
I'm just not sure about whether or not breaking in an engine really harms the coating. I'm also not sure what kind of break-in they have in mind. As noted above by someone else, if you aren't running a flat-tappet cam, then maybe the proper break-in is mostly just driving around and varying the load for a while, without hammering on it. In that case, I can't see how it could possibly harm the coating.
Here is the warning from Hooker:
Breaking in an engine with ceramic coated headers WILL result in damage to the coating and will VOID all warranties. Hooker recommends using cast iron exhaust manifolds or old headers during your engine break-in period to avoid damaging your coated damage. Please call Hooker tech service at 270-781-9741 for additional information regarding ceramic coated exhaust products. The use of header wraps can cause the header tubes to crack or rust due to excessive heat and moisture build-up. Hooker does not recommend the use of header wraps as this will void the warranty. Hooker long tube headers do not come with header reducers.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,090
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
I'd call and discuss the whole thing with them first, actually. But in addition to all this, there is a $300 premium (or more, maybe) for coated headers. So there's a budget consideration to keep in mind, too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,383
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,090
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 6,939
Likes: 1,488
From: New Jersey
Figured I would update even though it doesn't really matter much at this point... but with the angled plug heads changing the plugs is a joke. It is 100x easier than it was stock and my hands don't look like a cat attacked them when I'm done... probably the easiest vehicle to change plugs on I own lol. Just figured I would share. Also, the heads have a .25 (.025?) Raised exhaust port but it would appear that the bolt holes are in the stock location... clearance would arguably be even better if the holes were also raised.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,383
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Ok I see that. I have one on the 87. Gotcha, located in the # 7 primary tube. Wonder how accurate the O2 sensor will read? Are spark plugs easy to remove?
Last edited by TommyFox; Feb 11, 2020 at 11:36 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,090
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
It'll be super-accurate for that one primary. If the other primaries or the other bank is doing something different, then it won't capture that info. If your car only used on sensor to begin with, I guess it's neither more or less accurate, just different. I've never had stock manifolds on my C4 since I've owned it, but I hear they are a royal pain to change plugs on. It's not too hard with the Hookers installed. You have to contort a bit on a couple, and it helps to have an offset wrench for one or two of them. But I think headers make it easier overall.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 165
From: Utah
Figured I would update even though it doesn't really matter much at this point... but with the angled plug heads changing the plugs is a joke. It is 100x easier than it was stock and my hands don't look like a cat attacked them when I'm done... probably the easiest vehicle to change plugs on I own lol. Just figured I would share. Also, the heads have a .25 (.025?) Raised exhaust port but it would appear that the bolt holes are in the stock location... clearance would arguably be even better if the holes were also raised.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 287
From: Brisbane Australia
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I'm pretty sure they are referring to the flat tappet breakin period of 2500 rpms for half an hour. I can see that baking off the ceramic coating. When I did the cam swap in mine the exhaust got so hot it actually melted the rear bumper where the knock outs are and the manifolds and down pipes were cherry red to the cat... I believe that would be the problem.
My headers during cam burn in.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 287
From: Brisbane Australia
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
