Just what the title says. So far I have only looked at them but they're pretty sweet looking. The ceramic coating is done both inside and out and seems really thick. Flanges are nice and straight. The welds are probably my only gripe, they're not perfect. But they're way better than I could do lol.

My plan is to update this thread with fitment and other information as I go through. Taking a quick look though, it shouldn't be too bad. yes I could have done stainless works or tpis or others but I couldn't 100% justify the cost on a 36 year old car... got the whole thing at a fair price and adjusted my own labor fitting them as the reflective difference between more expensive ones. I have an install time written down, if I exceed that time it would have been worth it to step up. If I come in at or under it I made out. Cost of aggravation. Honestly though, not expecting to have to fight with anything except the dinosaur starter. And the only reason I'm not going to a peanut is because the previous owner had rebuilt it before I got it so it has roughly 7k miles on it... when it does go out I'll swap a peanut in. Will keep you updated and get some pictures.

-Paul

 

I have been pretty happy with my melrose headers and exhaust.
the ceramic coating has held up well.

one tip: coat the exhaust system (not headers) with header paint.
i used silver, and it looks great.
before i did that i had some orange rusty coating starting in a few places.

Once it baked on, the exhaust system looks awesome.

 

That's a good idea. I don't really drive it in the rain much at all so even the system that's on it now has little to no rust but geing the ceramic coating will heat up the tubes some further downstream it may not be a horrible idea.

 

This is related and from the hooker headers site and it really concerns me

Breaking in an engine with ceramic coated headers WILL result in damage to the coating and will VOID all warranties. Hooker recommends using cast iron exhaust manifolds or old headers during your engine break-in period to avoid damaging your coated damage.

after putting together and installing the engine who wants to put back oem manifolds, drive it around and then put in headers. I'm doing H/C, intake and every time I turn around its something else added to the project. i would assume I'm going to be "breaking in" the engine, but that step above is just painful considering all the work and time it's taking...

 

I'm pretty sure they are referring to the flat tappet breakin period of 2500 rpms for half an hour. I can see that baking off the ceramic coating. When I did the cam swap in mine the exhaust got so hot it actually melted the rear bumper where the knock outs are and the manifolds and down pipes were cherry red to the cat... I believe that would be the problem.

 

Or those who adjust the valves to tight from ignorance and the headers glow red .

 

If you're referring to me, that was not the case. But good try. I relashed them after like I always do and every single one had exactly 1/4 turn preload on the plunger before clatter. If I remember correctly my problem was it was about 110 outside, zero air movement and my base timing was at zero instead of 6 degrees so my advance was only 30 instead of 36. The big issue was that the coolant sensor for the ecm had failed and I didn't catch it so it was stuck in open loop 0 degrees enrichment... took a few days to figure that out. I didn't think the cam was that choppy.

All that being said, the stock radiator was able to maintain 230 degrees with me only pulsing the interior heat on every once and a while. It was a stock replacement cam I put in equal to the 89 tpi cam....

 

No. But it's a very common mistake and reduces the life of the ceramic coating. Seen it many times, hence the disclaimer from the company.

 

just wanted to make sure. I was really careful doing that lol. And yes. Seen it often. Especially with solids.

 

When I watch you tube installs of headers in LT1s all I can say is Id pay PREMIUM for one that actually fits.. I mean what these poor guys go through to get all the bolts and air connections to line up is just disheartening. One young gentleman has a video of the entire thing where stainless works sent him two sets and they still were not right. He ended up rigging it and it looked horrible. If I ever go that route Id spend whatever it takes. Id also have phone conversation with them and let them know I would not put up with ill fitting crap and let them know so they can tell me to go shop elsewhere. Id also let them know I will post what I find on forums.. ie dont d@ck around with me. My guess is jigs wear out and are not maintained. Id probably ask when the jig was last replaced or rebuilt.

The other issue is spark plug access.. not sure if that is something that can be done with headers. It would not be my biggest concern because Id put new ones in at the time and they would likely outlast me considering the miles I put on my c4.

Ive seen posts on here where shops were hired and the results were horrifying. You just cant cheap out on headers or the install. Really cant cheap out on anything.

 

Test mock up on heads in the garage was a success. Easy plug access with a 5/8 socket with room to spare. The only thing I discovered is that I will have to run 2 exhaust gaskets or get different hardware as the bolts bottom out in the head before the flange really compresses the gasket... not that big of a deal and I'm sure the problem is probably with the heads...

 

Photos are always nice.

Not sure why you think your heads are at fault. You think gm screwed up your heads? Or are they not gm heads.. sorry didnt read the whole thing. ARP bolts are not cheap.

 

they are aftermarket heads. The bottom of the hole is drilled to a tapered end, if it were flat the bolts would be fine. They are flat finished. I'm talking like a finger nail thickness is needed to be correct, the ones with standoffs work fine too so it's just the shortys are a little long. Photos below, the one with the plug boot on it is the closet to a tube but still has almost a quarter inch of air space around it. Those boots touch my stock manifolds so I'm not overly worried. I think if I use low profile cap head lock washers or nordlocks that will solve my problem.

 

I like how the support between the tubes is so thin. Ive seen issues where they use a huge piece and it causes problems. are you sure all the holes line up perfectly. In the photo it looks questionable on one side. If you started them all great.. looks like a winner winner chicken dinner!

I cant tell if the msd is touching the tube. If it is are they designed for direct contact?

 

the wire has 1/4 inch of air all around it. No contact at all. I did pre thread all bolts but left only two in, the shadowing from the lights makes it look that way.

 

Figured as such... well this is a +1 for Melrose then. Sounds like a perfect fit on top anyway. Im an LT1 but Melrose would be on my list if I go that route.. Differential first though.

 

Not sure if you have a cut off tool but if you do you could just take off one or two threads.. run a nut up on it first.. file a champher and then run the nut off to clean up the threads. Ive done that 13,000 times.

 

I used to have a threaded cutoff tool but lost it. I could knock off two threads and be fine as well. I'll see what I end up doing. IIRC they don't offer the headers with emissions anymore so that is something to consider. But talking with others that had LT cars, they suck to get in but once in they fit. There just isn't much room under the hood on those to fanangle them in.

 

Yeah Ive done an angle grinder on them as well.. just make sure you take off enough, Not sure how far the gasket will sink..

Im in SC so Id likely delete air stuff.. though I hate modifying. Seems like there is always a repercussion.

Anyway.. this looks great.. and if that coating holds up its going to look nice for some time.

 

looking at melrose site.. I had no idea headers were same for l98 and lt1. am I reading that right?