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Thanks for the input, I do know for sure that #8 is not firing. I also know for sure that I have spark to all. When I run the engine every pipe gets hot but #8. Pulling the fuel rail is next. I have never presure tested a cylinder so I am learning as I go. I am doing lots of reading, watching videos and looking for info in my shop manual. More to follow. Appreciate the support.
Thanks for the input, I do know for sure that #8 is not firing. I also know for sure that I have spark to all. When I run the engine every pipe gets hot but #8. Pulling the fuel rail is next. I have never presure tested a cylinder so I am learning as I go. I am doing lots of reading, watching videos and looking for info in my shop manual. More to follow. Appreciate the support.
o8
Thanks for the input, I do know for sure that #8 is not firing. I also know for sure that I have spark to all. When I run the engine every pipe gets hot but #8. Pulling the fuel rail is next. I have never presure tested a cylinder so I am learning as I go. I am doing lots of reading, watching videos and looking for info in my shop manual. More to follow. Appreciate the support.
o8
You have spark, you have fuel but #8 is not firing. You need adequate compression for this to happen. Why would you want to pull the fuel rail? You already know fuel is entering the chamber because the plug is wet with fuel.
Well, mainly because I really dont know what I am doing. I have experience with many cars but this is my first fuel injected V8. You ate not the first to say so, feeling pretty dumb actually. My distributor had some plastic parts inside explode. I am thinking maybe I should focus on that. New internal parts are not expensive. I am here looking for advice. Thanks for the help.
Ok,
not sure what to do next. I have never done a compression check on a fuel injected V8. Like I said before the #8 cylinder is cold. Can issues in the distributor cause this. I am getting spark but distributor rebuild.makes sense due to loss of plastic insulators between components inside. Any advice on the best way to compression check the motor would be great. There are lots of suggestions on line. Thanks again for the insights.
I have lost my plastic insulators under the rotor, and have not had any issues. I used electrical tape to cover as best I could.
Just rent the tool and you should be able to screw it in where the plug goes and turn the engine over. It is weird that you have a cold cylinder but you have
fuel and spark.
Any advice on the best way to compression check the motor would be great.
Buy or rent a compression gauge.
Screw it into the spark plug hole for number 8.
Pull the two "INJ" fuses in the fuse box (so it doesn't start)
Hold the throttle wide open and crank the starter.
Report the number on the gauge to this here, forums.
Good news I think. The passenger side cylinders had the following compression:
2: 162
4: 160
6: 158
8: 156
I ran out of time so the driver's side will have to wait. I have a date tonight with my lovely wife. The engine was not hot and it took 3 turns to get the compression readings.
Thoughts?
Thanks, I will let you know what happens. I have been through about the firing order but maybe I have been wrong. I have attached the firing order that I used for the L98.
Good news is I found a faulty spark plug and replaced it. All cylinders are hot now but the engine misfires and backfires and no power. My firing order is by the book. I have not done a thing to change the timing. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
Mark
I find whenever I am fiddling with a bunch of stuff, unplugging the negative battery cable(30sec) helps the computer be reset.
Check your plug wires once again and make sure they are not crossing each other and are down all the way. Not touching metal and are not damaged.
Checking the plug wires is a good move. When I got my 86 I had some issues and turned out one of them was the one plug wire had been touching the exhaust manifold and burnt through the insulation. I replaced the wires and added boots to them to reduce the chance of it ever happening again.
I am going to insure that all of those issues are looked at. My wires are brand new bit tje way the engine is acting I think is a result of something simple like what you suggest. More to follow.
Hello all,
I am back to square one. Still running terribly. I have spark, fuel and air. Plugs, wires and distributor test good. I cranked the motor to number 1 TDC and verified my firing order is good to go. Spark plug wires are very carefully routed as well. Could a bad O2 sensor create a situation where the engine misses? I think I may have to cry uncle and take it to a mechanic. Hate to say it. Thoughts?
