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The O2 shouldn't have any impact on the way it runs when cold/cool (in open loop). It's also unlikely that an O2 would cause a single, hard miss on one cylinder. Especially on a batchfire system.
So it seems that you're back to post number 2 at this point. If you have a hard miss still....which cylinder is missing? It should be easy to determine. You could determine which cylinder one of several ways:
*You can unplug one injector at a time. The one that makes no diff, is your offending cylinder.
*You can start it cold, then shoot the exhaust tubes with a temp gun. The "cold" one is the your offending cylinder.
*You can lube the tip of a test light, connect the clip to ground, the back probe the spark plug boots to ground out a cylinder (and not get shocked). The one that makes no diff, is your offending cylinder.
^There^ are three easy ways to isolate and confirm the problem that you think you have.
Yes, the diagnosis process is a long one sometimes. Could the MAF sensor cause this as well, I seem to have all 8 cylinders firing but it's like some just don't have power even though they fire. The compression test for each cylinder was good. I will take your guidance and go from there. Thanks
I am getting spark and fuel to each cylinder however the passenger side had weak spark to each cylinder. The coil is brand new. I pulled the entire distributor and the gear is in great shape and there is no play in it. I messed up and did not mark where the rotor was positioned before I pulled it so I will have to put the #1 cylinder at TDC and go from there. The MAF is clean so not sure what to do next. Baffling situation. I have School coming up at Fort Knox so I will be off the net got a few weeks. Thanks for the help and any advice would be appreciated. 😀
I would disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and make sure the check engine light works, then you should get a code. I got a code for misfire and I found my wires falling off under the rotor. In the meantime make sure your connections are clean and not wore down and wire touching metal. Need the fresh codes.
Good Luck
Also on my car many electrical features don't function. The screen that shows check engine is not working. I found the battery was not grounded correctly and fixed that. The main ground coming off of the block on the rear driver's side was just hanging down from the block. I did not see an obvious place to reattach so I grounded it to the frame. After that the security system started working in the car and locked me out. Kinda funny. Anyway the distributor mechanically is sound and has a new module and wiring. Another thing I plan to go over carefully is the harness for the injectors incase it is shorting somewhere. This will take time. The car was running great so I am confident that mechanically is is sound. The issues seem to be electrical.
I had a code 42 for EST(electronic spark timing) when I retraced all my connectors for poor engine performance to find my misfiring.
Note. those grounds attach above the oil temp sensor, so you may want to make sure a few are not still up above the filter/sensor.
Thanks for the insight, the main ground on the block is connected correctly, the other end that grounds to the frame is what was dangling. I think that they key to my car's issue is electrical.
It did, I have all of the cylinders firing now. The bottom line is that the fuel pressure regulator had a damaged vacuum line. Replaced the lines for the preasure regulator. Set timing and now when I hit the throttle there is no power. Looking into timing verification and also the TPI for possible issues. Any advice would be great.
It did, I have all of the cylinders firing now. The bottom line is that the fuel pressure regulator had a damaged vacuum line. Replaced the lines for the preasure regulator. Set timing and now when I hit the throttle there is no power. Looking into timing verification and also the TPI for possible issues. Any advice would be great.
if it was running well before, why did you mess with the timing ?
When I had two cylinders that were cold, I rebuilt the distributor and I pulled it to make sure the gear was in good shape. Getting that back in and set to #1 TDC was simple. The broken vacuum to my fuel preasure regulator fouled my plugs bad. Now I am in a better place, just not sure what the next step should be since there appear to be many issues that can cause power loss when you open up the throttle.
