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Ok so I need some help! My dilemma is after I drive my car for a while and it gets warm the idle will raise, sometimes giving in the 2k range... now sometimes at a light after a while at a light it will drop slowly. Now I have the EGR deleted and have (2) o2 sensors turned off/deleted (the rears) Ii believe it’s a vacuum leak of some sort but where should I start looking? And why is it happening only after car is warm. I just swapped a new 383 that chad Golen built and broke in himself so I don’t think it is from the manifold etc but I’m up for all tips tricks and suggestions as I want to install my oil catch can and fix this before I dyno it! Any and all help is highly appreciated
I don’t... but no check engine light is on. I’m curious if I can find it quick if my tuner plugs in... seeing how it’s a new build and the car had 0 issues before I’m thinking it should be something quick and simple
No O2 sensors? IDK how tune works, with no feedback. You need a scanner or data logger to check TPS and IAC. You could retorque intake possibly a few thermo cycles may have loosen things up.
Not sure why but soon as I found out about scanners, I had to have one. Now I have several. People seem resistant to getting one because they think it is a tool owned by professionals.
No O2 sensors? IDK how tune works, with no feedback. You need a scanner or data logger to check TPS and IAC. You could retorque intake possibly a few thermo cycles may have loosen things up.
the o2 sensors by the cats is deleted/turned off because I’m not running any.. I was thinking of trying to torque everything down but was thinking if it was the intake manifold it would do it constantly.. but I’ll check
Not sure why but soon as I found out about scanners, I had to have one. Now I have several. People seem resistant to getting one because they think it is a tool owned by professionals.
my my dad has one I might go by and grab it and give it a try... I had one for my car but now have the torqhead system so my obd1 is obsolete lol
Not sure why but soon as I found out about scanners, I had to have one. Now I have several. People seem resistant to getting one because they think it is a tool owned by professionals.
Purchased this scanner which is a wintech2 knock off. It works for engine diagnostics, AC, and some other things. I cannot get ccm or body systems to read but its worth it for the rest. It gives you windows based tech2 scanner. No check engine light doesnt mean no PID.. some PID's do not report a CEL until they happen a certain # of times or a certain duration of time or both. I have currently an O2 sensor that the heater is questionable but no CEL.
Pretty invaluable tool to maintain an LT1. Mine is a 96 with true obdii but im pretty sure it works on all LT1s. You need to download the GM mdi driver to make this work.. through me for awhile until I figured that part out. Since you are now frankensteined Im not sure how much it will help but Id suspect it will You can see your short and long term fuel injector trims which in your case you might need to reset yours to make it work quicker. I think you can do it with this tool. A really good obdii reader will read most of the same PID's but in my experience not all of them and I have 2 obdii readers. I bought the wifi version which is nice for live monitoring while you drive. Ive even worked on my car from in the house.
No O2 sensors? IDK how tune works, with no feedback. You need a scanner or data logger to check TPS and IAC. You could retorque intake possibly a few thermo cycles may have loosen things up.
He's obviously in open loop running some sort of injector/ingnition schedule probably based on the map sensor (if this is an lt1).. If you unplog your o2's the car will run a preprogrammed limp schedule. Assume he has a "tune".
One other thought.. You can graph your temp sensors, map, mas, and desired idle speed and you should be able to determine which sensor is making the ECU lower and raise the idle Im guessing there is a PD that is going to tell you why the idle is changing, The tech2 will show you a history along with snapshotted data of each PID
EDIT: sorry I meant PID this whole time lol.. I'll go back and fix. .
EDIT: I now see you ave a torqhead which mean you are running a Gen III PCM.. should still work on your car but even better,, more stuff to monkey with.
Last edited by barchetta1; Jan 9, 2020 at 07:14 PM.
my my dad has one I might go by and grab it and give it a try... I had one for my car but now have the torqhead system so my obd1 is obsolete lol
A scanner or a code reader? One is good and the other, not so much. Does torquehead have some sort of feedback? Or did you mean the O2 sensors AFTER the cat? Upstream ones adjust fuel air ratio and the post cat ones USUALLY just report on the cat. Once in a while, it can cause false alarms on the pre cat ones.
A scanner or a code reader? One is good and the other, not so much. Does torquehead have some sort of feedback? Or did you mean the O2 sensors AFTER the cat? Upstream ones adjust fuel air ratio and the post cat ones USUALLY just report on the cat. Once in a while, it can cause false alarms on the pre cat ones.
Right the LT1 uses post cat o2's to determine condition of cats only. they are not used to run the engine.. but he has now a Gen III pcm.. not sure how that one handles the post cat o2's. Its a real frankenstein. He's now 24x high and 1x low for ignition vs the optispark 4x/1x. Has to have the coil per cyl modification as well..so its from a computer stand point a gen III engine.
The good news he has tons of scanning options.. I wouldnt mess with the tech2 now that I know this.
He's obviously in open loop running some sort of injector/ingnition schedule probably based on the map sensor (if this is an lt1).. If you unplog your o2's the car will run a preprogrammed limp schedule. Assume he has a "tune".
yes it is still a LT1 and has a tune but just a mail order from pcm for less... I had a tuner take a look at it and I’m going back for a retune he said the spark tables seem similar tonones he’s tuned before but said my fuel was a little funky.. the car wasn’t idling high at the time so he wasn’t able to pick anything up
A scanner or a code reader? One is good and the other, not so much. Does torquehead have some sort of feedback? Or did you mean the O2 sensors AFTER the cat? Upstream ones adjust fuel air ratio and the post cat ones USUALLY just report on the cat. Once in a while, it can cause false alarms on the pre cat ones.
its a code reader... and yes the form stream o2 sensors. Had them turned off in pcm and plugged them on the car
One other thought.. You can graph your temp sensors, map, mas, and desired idle speed and you should be able to determine which sensor is making the ECU lower and raise the idle Im guessing there is a PD that is going to tell you why the idle is changing, The tech2 will show you a history along with snapshotted data of each PID
EDIT: sorry I meant PID this whole time lol.. I'll go back and fix. .
EDIT: I now see you ave a torqhead which mean you are running a Gen III PCM.. should still work on your car but even better,, more stuff to monkey with.
thanks for all the replies.. I’m going to check torque specs on manifold check that Chang all the vacuum lines just Incase since they are old and hopefully if it’s still acting up my tuner can see what’s going on.. again it happens after about 20min of driving.