Performance
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
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Well I agree, your post is kinda all over the place. I need to know if theres an end goal other than a 4.x 0-60 time and what you can do yourself.
An 88 35th anniversary edition will probably never be worth a whole lot, they made too many. I'd go to the regular corvette suppliers like Ecklers/MidAmerica/CorvetteAmerica/etc. for the specific stuff for the lumbar controls and seat refurbishment. I did try a local shop once for the seats and wasn't really happy, so you'd have to find someone who can do it local, or just buy all the foam and leather yourself and take it to them.
At 70K, its reasonably low mileage, so I'd at least think about taking that motor out and saving it. Otherwise, I'd bore to a 383 or 396, a set of AFR 195 heads, and then a series of choices must be made for the intake and cam that will affect the choices you make for the transmission and rear axle, but are themselves affected by whether you go with FI. Choices must also be made for the pistons and the Compression ratio you want to run, that won't be the same for the two routes.
I don't go for forced induction myself, but it is doable. I would not pay someone to put a turbo or TT on it and redo that exhaust though. If you cannot do it all yourself, don't bother there. A S/C is a little easier and you can keep the TPI intake system if you choose.
But cannot recommend the same parts for an NA vs FI build, so that choice must be made. NA build would warrant a new intake system like Miniram, HSR, or a used Superram. Camshaft choice can work for either FI or NA, but I would pick a cam set up for one or the other. I think your entire 5K budget will go to the engine either way and may need to be increased.
Transmission I assume is a 700r4? So that will need rebuilding to handle the torque, and a higher stall TC than what came in 88, which was a dinky 15-1600rpm. You'll want 2000-2200 minimum for a street car, I run 2400, and any higher will not feel right just tooling around. If you're going to race it, then higher may be warranted.
And at these power levels, if you race, you will destroy the D36 axle. So that must be changed to a D44 with 3.07s for a torque monster and you can go lower for a high RPM winder.
An 88 35th anniversary edition will probably never be worth a whole lot, they made too many. I'd go to the regular corvette suppliers like Ecklers/MidAmerica/CorvetteAmerica/etc. for the specific stuff for the lumbar controls and seat refurbishment. I did try a local shop once for the seats and wasn't really happy, so you'd have to find someone who can do it local, or just buy all the foam and leather yourself and take it to them.
At 70K, its reasonably low mileage, so I'd at least think about taking that motor out and saving it. Otherwise, I'd bore to a 383 or 396, a set of AFR 195 heads, and then a series of choices must be made for the intake and cam that will affect the choices you make for the transmission and rear axle, but are themselves affected by whether you go with FI. Choices must also be made for the pistons and the Compression ratio you want to run, that won't be the same for the two routes.
I don't go for forced induction myself, but it is doable. I would not pay someone to put a turbo or TT on it and redo that exhaust though. If you cannot do it all yourself, don't bother there. A S/C is a little easier and you can keep the TPI intake system if you choose.
But cannot recommend the same parts for an NA vs FI build, so that choice must be made. NA build would warrant a new intake system like Miniram, HSR, or a used Superram. Camshaft choice can work for either FI or NA, but I would pick a cam set up for one or the other. I think your entire 5K budget will go to the engine either way and may need to be increased.
Transmission I assume is a 700r4? So that will need rebuilding to handle the torque, and a higher stall TC than what came in 88, which was a dinky 15-1600rpm. You'll want 2000-2200 minimum for a street car, I run 2400, and any higher will not feel right just tooling around. If you're going to race it, then higher may be warranted.
And at these power levels, if you race, you will destroy the D36 axle. So that must be changed to a D44 with 3.07s for a torque monster and you can go lower for a high RPM winder.
Well my plan is restore but since I am wanting to restore I would like a little more umph in it. The vette is fast now and puts me in a sit as it is. I saw a video of a 88 Callaway which i am looking to be right in the middle of . Here is the video
88 vette callaway first video click on
I am not looking to race it. I would maybe like to take it the the track and do a quarter mile when I am done but I want this build to be a nice CruiserCruisif I wanna punch it here and there power is there . I hope this makes sense to you and clarifies what I'm looking to do
Last edited by Vettefreak2383; Jan 22, 2020 at 03:20 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 319
From: Ohio
Get a cheap billet 7875 turbo, some feed/return fittings and lines, a T4 flange, some 2 1/4" piping, and whatever manifolds you plan to use. Use 3" piping for the downpipe. Get a cheap wastegate blow off valve. Make you up a turbo hotside. They typically take me about 2 hours.
Find out what intercooler fits, buy a cheap one and a generic piping kit. You're looking at about $1,000 in parts and that is a PROVEN 1000 HP recipe. At 6-8 PSI on that turbo on a bone stock L98, itll make more power and torque than $5k worth of N/A mods and drive like stock.
You're left with 4k for other upgrades. You'll need $500 for fuel injectors, fuel pump, MAP sensor. Lots of options for tuning,
$3500 still gets you a whole lot of upgrades...
Find out what intercooler fits, buy a cheap one and a generic piping kit. You're looking at about $1,000 in parts and that is a PROVEN 1000 HP recipe. At 6-8 PSI on that turbo on a bone stock L98, itll make more power and torque than $5k worth of N/A mods and drive like stock.
You're left with 4k for other upgrades. You'll need $500 for fuel injectors, fuel pump, MAP sensor. Lots of options for tuning,
$3500 still gets you a whole lot of upgrades...
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
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Get a cheap billet 7875 turbo, some feed/return fittings and lines, a T4 flange, some 2 1/4" piping, and whatever manifolds you plan to use. Use 3" piping for the downpipe. Get a cheap wastegate blow off valve. Make you up a turbo hotside. They typically take me about 2 hours.
Find out what intercooler fits, buy a cheap one and a generic piping kit. You're looking at about $1,000 in parts and that is a PROVEN 1000 HP recipe. At 6-8 PSI on that turbo on a bone stock L98, itll make more power and torque than $5k worth of N/A mods and drive like stock.
You're left with 4k for other upgrades. You'll need $500 for fuel injectors, fuel pump, MAP sensor. Lots of options for tuning,
$3500 still gets you a whole lot of upgrades...
Find out what intercooler fits, buy a cheap one and a generic piping kit. You're looking at about $1,000 in parts and that is a PROVEN 1000 HP recipe. At 6-8 PSI on that turbo on a bone stock L98, itll make more power and torque than $5k worth of N/A mods and drive like stock.
You're left with 4k for other upgrades. You'll need $500 for fuel injectors, fuel pump, MAP sensor. Lots of options for tuning,
$3500 still gets you a whole lot of upgrades...
Thank you!!!
Pro
Joined: Jun 2018
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I love turbos, I spent my formative years wrenching on turbo buicks and I have have a twin-turbo Mercedes V12 in my garage right now. That said, I thought about doing a turbo on my 89 and the more I looked at it the more difficult it looked. It would either require a lot of money or a lot of personal time and effort and I decided it was too much.
One complicating factor I ran into is the radiator placement on a C4 is not great to start with so I think an air-to-air intercooler will not be very efficient. If I went that route I would use an air to water intercooler, not an air-to-air. One other thing I thought about doing was getting one larger custom-built radiator with a separate tap for the intercooler. Both the intercooler and the engine drawing from the same radiator. The problem with that is the engine and turbos would be sharing the same coolant, however I think in terms of heatr transfer it would do better than a separate unit..
If you are just after power, have you thought about Nitrous oxide? That is going to give you more more hp for less money.
One complicating factor I ran into is the radiator placement on a C4 is not great to start with so I think an air-to-air intercooler will not be very efficient. If I went that route I would use an air to water intercooler, not an air-to-air. One other thing I thought about doing was getting one larger custom-built radiator with a separate tap for the intercooler. Both the intercooler and the engine drawing from the same radiator. The problem with that is the engine and turbos would be sharing the same coolant, however I think in terms of heatr transfer it would do better than a separate unit..
If you are just after power, have you thought about Nitrous oxide? That is going to give you more more hp for less money.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
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I love turbos, I spent my formative years wrenching on turbo buicks and I have have a twin-turbo Mercedes V12 in my garage right now. That said, I thought about doing a turbo on my 89 and the more I looked at it the more difficult it looked. It would either require a lot of money or a lot of personal time and effort and I decided it was too much.
One complicating factor I ran into is the radiator placement on a C4 is not great to start with so I think an air-to-air intercooler will not be very efficient. If I went that route I would use an air to water intercooler, not an air-to-air. One other thing I thought about doing was getting one larger custom-built radiator with a separate tap for the intercooler. Both the intercooler and the engine drawing from the same radiator. The problem with that is the engine and turbos would be sharing the same coolant, however I think in terms of heatr transfer it would do better than a separate unit..
If you are just after power, have you thought about Nitrous oxide? That is going to give you more more hp for less money.
One complicating factor I ran into is the radiator placement on a C4 is not great to start with so I think an air-to-air intercooler will not be very efficient. If I went that route I would use an air to water intercooler, not an air-to-air. One other thing I thought about doing was getting one larger custom-built radiator with a separate tap for the intercooler. Both the intercooler and the engine drawing from the same radiator. The problem with that is the engine and turbos would be sharing the same coolant, however I think in terms of heatr transfer it would do better than a separate unit..
If you are just after power, have you thought about Nitrous oxide? That is going to give you more more hp for less money.
I want to keep it more stock looking then performance racing. I want a combo of both where I have the driver Cruiser ability and then I have the power right there if I wanna open it up. Hope that make sense.
There is a video I posted about a 88 calloway vette twin turbo. Take a look at that
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Wouldnt be hard to do a NA TPI 383 without going nuts....on $. Just smart choices.
There are bolt on superchargers made for this, you have a cast crank 2 bolt main which will hold some power but cant throw a lot of boost at it.
4-6 lbs will impress you and be reliable.
Do you have smog? Visual inspections? Want to keep TPI?
What rear end gear do you have? I think a nice NA engine can be done for 5 just be resrouceful. Make well over 400lbs of torque that will smoke the tires all day and not spin high enoguh to hurt itself. Otherwise stuff gets real costly real fast its never ending.
A cast crank 383 or even 406 with a converted LT1 intake would haul azz. No need for all forged $$ stuff.
There are bolt on superchargers made for this, you have a cast crank 2 bolt main which will hold some power but cant throw a lot of boost at it.
4-6 lbs will impress you and be reliable.
Do you have smog? Visual inspections? Want to keep TPI?
What rear end gear do you have? I think a nice NA engine can be done for 5 just be resrouceful. Make well over 400lbs of torque that will smoke the tires all day and not spin high enoguh to hurt itself. Otherwise stuff gets real costly real fast its never ending.
A cast crank 383 or even 406 with a converted LT1 intake would haul azz. No need for all forged $$ stuff.
Last edited by cv67; Jan 23, 2020 at 09:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
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Wouldnt be hard to do a NA TPI 383 without going nuts....on $. Just smart choices.
There are bolt on superchargers made for this, you have a cast crank 2 bolt main which will hold some power but cant throw a lot of boost at it.
4-6 lbs will impress you and be reliable.
Do you have smog? Visual inspections? Want to keep TPI?
What rear end gear do you have? I think a nice NA engine can be done for 5 just be resrouceful. Make well over 400lbs of torque that will smoke the tires all day and not spin high enoguh to hurt itself. Otherwise stuff gets real costly real fast its never ending.
A cast crank 383 or even 406 with a converted LT1 intake would haul azz. No need for all forged $$ stuff.
There are bolt on superchargers made for this, you have a cast crank 2 bolt main which will hold some power but cant throw a lot of boost at it.
4-6 lbs will impress you and be reliable.
Do you have smog? Visual inspections? Want to keep TPI?
What rear end gear do you have? I think a nice NA engine can be done for 5 just be resrouceful. Make well over 400lbs of torque that will smoke the tires all day and not spin high enoguh to hurt itself. Otherwise stuff gets real costly real fast its never ending.
A cast crank 383 or even 406 with a converted LT1 intake would haul azz. No need for all forged $$ stuff.
I am not sure what rear end I have. . I got a message in the mail a year or so ago saying I do not need to take the car to inspection anymore.
As I have been saying im not looking to go all crazy. Im looking to freshing it up. While having to pull heads off to change gaskets. I thought why not see If I can get the most for my money to get a little more umph out of it. I would be there anyways. Hope this makes sense.
There is a lot of thinking to do. A few have already said boring out the engine will not get me much and I would be spending a lot for nothing.. the turbo I will def be doing. And for me that might just give enough umph where I won't do anything else.
I do have a anti freeze leak on the engine which if it's by the head and block i might just overhaul the engine since it has to be halfway torn down anyways and if it's not to much more expensive I might flip heads and cam out if I do cam I will do new pistons and might bore it . I am not going to bore or overhaul unless I have to change a head gasket or something like that. Hope I am making sense.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Wisconsin
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C4 of the Year Winner - Modified
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Keep in mind that if you're planning on turbocharging, there simply isn't much room in these cars. It will have to be custom made as there isn't a turbocharger kit made for C4s. You can put a single one on the passenger side if you remove the AC, rear mount but you may have to remove the spare, or cram it on the driver's side like I'm currently doing but that has required a ton of fabrication. If you want forced induction I'd look at a Blowerworks centrifugal supercharger.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Hartford WI
Did I miss something or did we ask the all important questions? What is the goal and how much money to spend? In quantifiable numbers, please and not "I want to go fast and I have some money to spend.".
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2020
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Keep in mind that if you're planning on turbocharging, there simply isn't much room in these cars. It will have to be custom made as there isn't a turbocharger kit made for C4s. You can put a single one on the passenger side if you remove the AC, rear mount but you may have to remove the spare, or cram it on the driver's side like I'm currently doing but that has required a ton of fabrication. If you want forced induction I'd look at a Blowerworks centrifugal supercharger.
Thank you your reply. some have done just that put it in the place of AC. Mine does not work at the time. This car also has a air pump. Wouldn't you be able to put the turbo in it's place? You might have to fabricate it a little bit to fit it but wouldn't that work?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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My budget is about 5k-8k for just under hood work. I would like to keep it stock for the most part. The engine has 72k on it. I have a antifreeze leak and some oil leaks.
My goal is restore in terms of restore I would like to get the most out of my money if not save a little money. I am just looking to get a little more umph out of it in the process.
I am not looking to race it. Maybe out of pleasure take it on the track a few times. But I want that driveable feel for Cruising as well as having the power there if i want to open it up a bit. At least the power will all be there on the demand.
If you look at a few post back I posted about a 88 Callaway which has twin turbo on it. But the way it is build it is best of both worlds.
as I said looking to see what I can do to get a little more umph out of it since I am going to restore it clean up leaks and all.
Hope this makes sense. Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 319
From: Ohio
A $250 billet 7875 is a small frame T4 turbo. It has a much better chance of fitting under the hood than most turbos.
Turbo placement isn't critical. You can put it in the spare tire well or behind the front bumper.
Turbo placement isn't critical. You can put it in the spare tire well or behind the front bumper.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 728
Likes: 420
From: Wisconsin
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C4 of the Year Winner - Modified
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
If I were to do this again, I'd strongly consider doing a rear mount, possibly twins. I didn't want to lose the spare for a rear mount setup and like my AC too much to ditch it to go on the passenger side.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,331
Likes: 3,245
From: Hartford WI
My budget is about 5k-8k for just under hood work. I would like to keep it stock for the most part. The engine has 72k on it. I have a antifreeze leak and some oil leaks.
My goal is restore in terms of restore I would like to get the most out of my money if not save a little money. I am just looking to get a little more umph out of it in the process.
I am not looking to race it. Maybe out of pleasure take it on the track a few times. But I want that driveable feel for Cruising as well as having the power there if i want to open it up a bit. At least the power will all be there on the demand.
If you look at a few post back I posted about a 88 Callaway which has twin turbo on it. But the way it is build it is best of both worlds.
as I said looking to see what I can do to get a little more umph out of it since I am going to restore it clean up leaks and all.
Hope this makes sense. Thanks
My goal is restore in terms of restore I would like to get the most out of my money if not save a little money. I am just looking to get a little more umph out of it in the process.
I am not looking to race it. Maybe out of pleasure take it on the track a few times. But I want that driveable feel for Cruising as well as having the power there if i want to open it up a bit. At least the power will all be there on the demand.
If you look at a few post back I posted about a 88 Callaway which has twin turbo on it. But the way it is build it is best of both worlds.
as I said looking to see what I can do to get a little more umph out of it since I am going to restore it clean up leaks and all.
Hope this makes sense. Thanks
"A little more umph" is very difficult to quantify. I make 420 at the wheels with a 383. It is a daily driver with all the creature comforts it came with. Other than it makes more noise than I like, it is OK. If I were planning to be driving a C4 forever, I'd buy a Corsa to quieten it down.
Why do people always say that they are not planning to race it? Budget dictates how much goal you can achieve, not the other way around.
I would suggest cleaning it up first before stressing it out. I'd prefer a supercharged vehicle to turbo personally but that is me. At least find out what is leaking and what shape it is in with a leak down test before modification. Oil analysis is a good idea to find abnormal wear.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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That's not much to work with. Custom turbo, piping and intercooler, hoses and water pump replacement and sealing the intake and other misc stuff, tuning and probably injectors. You mentioned under hood. Don't forget to budget for a rebuild on the trans, several thousand, rear end and other things like the exhaust.
"A little more umph" is very difficult to quantify. I make 420 at the wheels with a 383. It is a daily driver with all the creature comforts it came with. Other than it makes more noise than I like, it is OK. If I were planning to be driving a C4 forever, I'd buy a Corsa to quieten it down.
Why do people always say that they are not planning to race it? Budget dictates how much goal you can achieve, not the other way around.
I would suggest cleaning it up first before stressing it out. I'd prefer a supercharged vehicle to turbo personally but that is me. At least find out what is leaking and what shape it is in with a leak down test before modification. Oil analysis is a good idea to find abnormal wear.
"A little more umph" is very difficult to quantify. I make 420 at the wheels with a 383. It is a daily driver with all the creature comforts it came with. Other than it makes more noise than I like, it is OK. If I were planning to be driving a C4 forever, I'd buy a Corsa to quieten it down.
Why do people always say that they are not planning to race it? Budget dictates how much goal you can achieve, not the other way around.
I would suggest cleaning it up first before stressing it out. I'd prefer a supercharged vehicle to turbo personally but that is me. At least find out what is leaking and what shape it is in with a leak down test before modification. Oil analysis is a good idea to find abnormal wear.
Thank you for you message. Well I already know that it needs a new head gasket. So I was thinking if it goes to be torn down to get to the head gasket I'm already there so if there are any modifications I can do know why not do it. So if I was going to put new head on it that would be the time to do that. As I said before I was thinking of overhauling the block since I am there with the head gasket. Why tear it apart just to put the new gasket on and then later find out pistons are leaking oil so it's got to be torn down again.
I am also aware of the tranny which will get overhauled as well. I do get a hard shift going from 1st gear in to second. I baby it in to second then 3rd and 4rd is very smooth. But I am not sure if it's a link problem or there is something going on with the transmission itself. There is a lot to do even before I decide to work on any upgrades
May I ask what is the difference between a turbo and supercharger?
I also said I don't plan to race it because that's not really my style. I will Take it to the track when I am down with mods to see what it can do but that will be all. I'm not one whom has ton of money for mods to race it and wear it our. Once mods are done I am hoping it will be forever
Once again thanks
Last edited by Vettefreak2383; Jan 24, 2020 at 09:37 AM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 728
Likes: 420
From: Wisconsin
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
For this application, going with a supercharger system as opposed to a turbocharger will be much easier if you cannot fabricate your own manifolds and exhaust piping.
There are two manufacturers of supercharger systems: Blowerworks and Vortech. Blowerworks offers a complete bolt on system, everything you need is in his kit.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,331
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From: Hartford WI
Thank you for you message. Well I already know that it needs a new head gasket. So I was thinking if it goes to be torn down to get to the head gasket I'm already there so if there are any modifications I can do know why not do it. So if I was going to put new head on it that would be the time to do that. As I said before I was thinking of overhauling the block since I am there with the head gasket. Why test it apart just to put the new gasket on and then later find out pistons are leaking oil so it's got to be torn down again.
I am also aware of the tranny which will get overhauled as well. I do get a hard shift going from 1st gear in to second. I baby it in to second then 3rd and 4rd is very smooth. But I am not sure if it's a link problem or there is something going on with the transmission itself. There is a lot to do even before I decide to work on any upgrades
May I ask what is the difference between a turbo and supercharger?
Once again thanks
I am also aware of the tranny which will get overhauled as well. I do get a hard shift going from 1st gear in to second. I baby it in to second then 3rd and 4rd is very smooth. But I am not sure if it's a link problem or there is something going on with the transmission itself. There is a lot to do even before I decide to work on any upgrades
May I ask what is the difference between a turbo and supercharger?
Once again thanks
https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...er-definition/
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 319
From: Ohio
Supercharger is belt driven, can only be mounted as an accessory, is louder, and much more expensive.
Superchargers are usually a little easier to package, so a lot more 'kits' are available for them.
Team Owner
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From: Hartford WI
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Glenbeulah Wi
Supercharger is belt driven, can only be mounted as an accessory, is louder, and much more expensive.
Turbo's being cheaper is all relative to the skill of the person making the kit. Turbochargers will be all custom built and as I mentioned before if you have to pay someone to do the build it will get expensive.
Superchargers drive like a typical NA car where turbo's have some amount of turbo lag and will not have as smooth of a power delivery as a supercharger.
Each one has it pro's and cons but based on what I see in this post I believe the supercharger kit is the better option. Bolt and power vs custum build.
A procharger kit complete is in the $5000 range for a reference.
Turbo's being cheaper is all relative to the skill of the person making the kit. Turbochargers will be all custom built and as I mentioned before if you have to pay someone to do the build it will get expensive.
Superchargers drive like a typical NA car where turbo's have some amount of turbo lag and will not have as smooth of a power delivery as a supercharger.
Each one has it pro's and cons but based on what I see in this post I believe the supercharger kit is the better option. Bolt and power vs custum build.
A procharger kit complete is in the $5000 range for a reference.
Last edited by bjankuski; Jan 24, 2020 at 10:12 AM.