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Someone suggested starting a sticky for 3D printing c4 parts. If there are any moderators still roaming this sub forum please feel free to use this post.
Edit: Here is the thingiverse link to download the *.stl file
My hood prop rod end broke from user stupidity. Modeled it in fusion360 and printed on an Ender 3 in PLA @ 200deg C nozzle and 60deg C bed temps. It's very strong. I uploaded the files to Thingiverse, but it takes 24hrs to publish so I'll reply with the link later.
Last edited by jayjones; Feb 13, 2020 at 03:59 PM.
Reason: added link
I had the convertible top on my 1996 CE replaced a couple years ago and the top edge of the rear window sat too low and was constantly sliding down off the plastic support piece. I designed a couple of slightly thicker support spacers on Autodesk TinkerCAD. I didn't take any pictures of the actual part but here's a screenshot of the design image. It's not even remotely as complicated as your hood prop end but there was a sense of satisfaction nonetheless.
3D modeling is a very natural and somewhat addictive process for the mechanically inclined. For that hood prop end, I just measured the dimensions of each feature as i went. The process is literally just adding and subtracting fundamental shapes like spheres cubes and cylinders. Then you can add things like chamfers and fillets to save material or add support. I use fusion360 which is basically an evolution of autocad. It's free for hobbyists, I encourage you to try it. There are thousands of tutorial vids for beginners.
If someone wants to build a plastic model of mine I can take more pics or measurements.
I bet if you printed of a couple sets you could charge $30 easy on Ebay etc. for them.
Good material to print out of isn't that cheap.
I have access to a 3D Scanner, 3D Printer, and Inventor. However, while it is not a primary business function it is still part of my business. I would unfortunately at least have to cover my cost of materials. If anyone wants to try creating something, you can PM me.
Its times like these where I wish my high school cad project wasn't making a soap dish... I mean I still have it but at the same time the tech wasn't like it is now 8 years ago... and I wish I remember how to use CAD... I have the full inventor suite on my personal computer but my degree of engineering is more concerned with... other things...
My High School engineering project was hand written BASIC code on an Apple IIe so I feel you.
I kind of want to start a company called "The good one" where we just troll forums for popular vehicles (vettes, jeeps, motorcycles, etc.) and ask them about "The good one" piece that used to be available but no longer is. Every hobbyist forum has a few of these. For C4's no one likes the new style rear hatch lift bracket and talks about how much better the old one was.
In most cases there was one guy who used to be on the forum that made them for a couple of years but has moved on so now they are holy grail items.
The company would just make batches of these holy grails at 100 per batch.
Seems like the hard work would be just recreating them in CAD then modifying them enough not to step on any patents.
You're not going to be the next Amazon but I think you could charge a real premium for them and make some money with pretty low overhead.
My High School engineering project was hand written BASIC code on an Apple IIe so I feel you.
I kind of want to start a company called "The good one" where we just troll forums for popular vehicles (vettes, jeeps, motorcycles, etc.) and ask them about "The good one" piece that used to be available but no longer is. Every hobbyist forum has a few of these. For C4's no one likes the new style rear hatch lift bracket and talks about how much better the old one was.
In most cases there was one guy who used to be on the forum that made them for a couple of years but has moved on so now they are holy grail items.
The company would just make batches of these holy grails at 100 per batch.
Seems like the hard work would be just recreating them in CAD then modifying them enough not to step on any patents.
You're not going to be the next Amazon but I think you could charge a real premium for them and make some money with pretty low overhead.
The problem with this is you are competing with folks who stock pile old wrecks of these cars that have these parts as well. Then you have to consider the reason nobody else is already making them, they are low demand. I know the material cost to 3D print, I know the cost of the printer, software and etc. You would definitely be playing the long game to come out ahead. I doubt you would be able to quit your day job, but may be a profitable side venture. Probably why those folks have "moved on". They would keep making them if it was still worth their time.
I am not a naysayer though, I would be more than happy to see you prove me wrong and be successful at it. I have all the resources to do the small parts as my printer is not very big, but I don't have the time to troll for what should be made. Happy to work with someone to make the parts if someone has a need.
I think the way gdl2165 posted is a good format. A picture of the part and a link to one of the 3d model sights.
I have a couple pieces I've made. I'm working on a washer nozzle since it can't be purchased separately from the arm.
We probably need to get input from the mods on replicated parts as they may be patent infringement. Also copyright on logos. Accessories should be fine
Hosting the files on thingiverse with the personal use license deals with people taking your file and selling prints on ebay.
If you haven't ever modeled anything watch this. Its using a program that is free to hobbyist but if you start selling designs it has a pretty hefty licensing fee.
It's all very cool and part of the "democratization" of knowledge. We used to have to go to the library -- now we look it up and get access within minutes.
Typical patents are good for 20 years from the filing date and there are maintenance fees. I'm not a lawyer and don't play one on TV, but I'm guessing the plastic bits on our C4s are no longer protected.
I don't know how big the printer beds are, but the first piece that comes to mind is the FRIGGIN BREAD BOX. How about a glove box? Don't know about a whole piece but what about pieces that can be assembled? I'd pay for that.
what about a “trim piece” where the owner cuts a hole/increases the hole size for double din, then press fits a trim/border piece to clean it up, and that trim piece also has mounting tabs for the stereo.
last time i looked into 3d printing for a business i owned at the time, the way that these 3d printer prts come out, they leave a stepped surface. like pyramids.
A person can sand or mist coat acetone on them to smooth them out. but thats a pita.
i could see an insert working for double din applications in early and late c4’s
last time i looked into 3d printing for a business i owned at the time, the way that these 3d printer prts come out, they leave a stepped surface. like pyramids.
Not an issue with my printer. However, there is a change in texture between an exposed surface and the surfaces that sit on the support material. The hardest thing to replicate is surface textures if there is one.
Also, the plastic can be sanded smooth and painted fairly easily if you wish to achieve a truly smooth finish.
Not an issue with my printer. However, there is a change in texture between an exposed surface and the surfaces that sit on the support material. The hardest thing to replicate is surface textures if there is one.
Also, the plastic can be sanded smooth and painted fairly easily if you wish to achieve a truly smooth finish.
Curious which one you have, we have a few at work that are the old style... Basically a multi axis controlled hot glue gun. The other lab has the one that uses a liquid bath and a laser and light to print. That one prints excellent pieces but you're very size limited... Are there others that I've never seen?
Curious which one you have, we have a few at work that are the old style... Basically a multi axis controlled hot glue gun. The other lab has the one that uses a liquid bath and a laser and light to print. That one prints excellent pieces but you're very size limited... Are there others that I've never seen?
Well, you can even get one now that laser sinters different metals. Heck, last time I was in Germany, DMG/Mori had a machining center that both did additive and subtractive manufacturing (Could sinter the metal then machine it).
I have a Objet30 from Stratasys. BUILD SIZE
294 x 192 x 148.6 mm (11.57 x 7.55 x 5.85 in.)
LAYER THICKNESS
28 microns (0.0011 in.); 16 microns for VeroClear material (.0006 in.)
ACCURACY
Typical deviation from STL dimensions, for models printed with rigid materials, based on size: under 100 mm – ±100μ; above100 mm – ±200μ or ± 0.06% of part length, whichever is greater.
Well, you can even get one now that laser sinters different metals. Heck, last time I was in Germany, DMG/Mori had a machining center that both did additive and subtractive manufacturing (Could sinter the metal then machine it).
I have a Objet30 from Stratasys. BUILD SIZE
294 x 192 x 148.6 mm (11.57 x 7.55 x 5.85 in.)
LAYER THICKNESS
28 microns (0.0011 in.); 16 microns for VeroClear material (.0006 in.)
ACCURACY
Typical deviation from STL dimensions, for models printed with rigid materials, based on size: under 100 mm – ±100μ; above100 mm – ±200μ or ± 0.06% of part length, whichever is greater.
BUILD RESOLUTION
X-axis: 600 dpi; Y-axis: 600 dpi; Z-axis: 900 dpi
That's a nice piece there. We just have a few enders at work. Nothing crazy as we just use it to model what we're building.
Here are a few other samples of what I have made with the 3D printer. All of this has some age to it. You can see how it pics up dirt, especially in areas where support material was. If I was going to use this in my car, I would defiantly sand, primer, and paint. Even if it was a flat paint to protect the appearance.
We use this blue for everything because it is pretty hard and tough as well, but like any plastic, give it Sharp edges or let it get too thin and it will crack.
Here is another project I used the 3D printer for. We didn't have a print from the manufacturer for this machine attachment. That way we would buy tooling from them instead of making our own. I took measurements off the machine and then made the face attachment portion on the 3D printer. Printing took about an hour and cost a little under $10 in material. Was able to sit it in and verify screw location and clocking pin location as well as fitment before making the real part out of steel and having it heat treated - which would be much more expensive to discover a bad measurement, which is easy to do when you can't remove something and manipulate it to get the best positions for measurement.
You can also see remaining support material during fitment and what they part can actually look like after a being hit with a pressure washer. Another note, you will see in the 3D part is how thin a section of the wall got. This didn't show up in the 3D model to be as big of an issue as what it was once visible printed out. The pressure washer actually blew the material away from these areas. So, it was corrected before the final design.
3D print files for c4
