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Lots of great advice above, and I am now looking for the right timing to further clutter my work area with a 3D printer! How cool.
But to solve your challenge, I would look at this a bit differently from my EE perspective:.... Just solder the wires on those terminals! Who needs a plug?
Keith,
Since I specialized in Avionics I would add that if soldered, filling the cavity with connector podding would be appropriate.
My best guess is the adapter harness was used so that the same pulse controller could be used across various models/years where the wiring harness connector was different.
Are you an older EE? My son graduated last spring and they don't learn soldering. I taught him on my rework station (bought him one too). Seems now they hire an engineering tech to hand off the build work on prototypes.
DMITTZ take a photo with scale like this and give me a depth measurement of the inside cavity. I'll model one in fusion 360 and send you some screenshots. In the meantime, download fusion360. I'll email you the file you can load it up and rotate pan and zoom the 3d model and take virtual measurements to see if it looks good enough. I'll print one and send it to you.
Wow guys, I'm really greatful for all the wonderful advice and offers of help, I truly appreciate it, you guys are great!
The car is currently at my friend's shop as he is tidying off the LS swap details.
Jayjones, Next time I stop by the shop I will take the wiper control cover off and get some good pictures and measurements and send them to you. I wasn't able to stop in this weekend but i'll try to stop in next saturday.
Keith,
Since I specialized in Avionics I would add that if soldered, filling the cavity with connector podding would be appropriate.
My best guess is the adapter harness was used so that the same pulse controller could be used across various models/years where the wiring harness connector was different.
Are you an older EE? My son graduated last spring and they don't learn soldering. I taught him on my rework station (bought him one too). Seems now they hire an engineering tech to hand off the build work on prototypes.
That's the term for the "Stuff to pour around the soldered wires" I was looking for! Thanks For the OP - looks like you're on your way to a great 3D print experiment and no doubt with the talent here, you'll be successful. Please do post the results! If it starts raining sooner or you just want a quick and reliable fix - don't forget the soldering option and as above - the potting to keep the wires all in place and strain relieved here's where they use that approach on connectors: https://www.harwin.com/what-is-backpotting/ and of course, you can splice in a connector (upstream in the wires) still if you felt the need to be able to connect and disconnect the wiper assembly... Back to the social side:
Belairbrian - again, thanks for the reminder! Avionics, you must have seen some cool stuff! Young EE's do look at me as an "older EE" lol.. CONGRATS on your son following in your footsteps and also getting his EE. As you mentioned, they don't teach soldering - WTF? and didn't even when I went through.. offline i can share how some in my Duke EE class with almost a 4.0 had trouble designing circuits out in the world and would ask me (with half their GPA!) for help..
IMHO your son got more engineering aptitude from the DNA he inherited and lessons he got watching you than in his Engineering program. I think they got better at teaching in the past 25 years - my time was consumed with teachers having their backs to us filling up boards with equations. To me, it's like dancing - just because you take a bunch of classes doesn't make you a dancer.. and I think you have to be born with Engineering in you - whether you get formal training or not...
As to the Engineering Techs - the best advice I ever got at TI Lewisville my first job as an embedded processor design engineer: "Make friends with a good tech and they'll teach you what you need to know".
I hope your son gets to enjoy as much fun and learning as we have!
Last edited by Keithwinnfl; Jan 18, 2021 at 09:07 AM.
I just wanted to let everyone know that the wiper control cover connector issue on my LS swapped 88' has now been solved, thanks everyone for all the wonderful offers of Help and suggestions.
A big thanks to fourm member WVZR-1 who helped me source compatable connector!
Thanks again guys for all the kind suggestions and offers of help with getting this issue on my C4 sorted out.
So getting back to the original intent of the thread. I also have a 3-d printing setup in my garage and can second, third, and fourth the fact that they are very cool, but are nowhere near consumer friendly. It's not plug-and-play to get consistent good quality prints. But if you're a tinkerer like many of us are, it is something that just must be done
I generated the files to produce the Power Seat Track transmission ends on a 3-d printer and posted the files to Thingiverse (link below). What I found in my tinkering is that the original ends leave a gap between the end of the piece and the transmission case, which means all of the force is on the nylon piece. In my design, I extended the cap so that it rests upon the case itself, transferring the load to the case, not the part. This was really a necessity because 3-d printed parts are not as strong as fully molded parts and I used PLA, and not nylon like the originals.
Send me a photo of your holley dash with a ruler for reference. See below, it's better to take a far away photo and crop it, than to take a close up photo. Take it as far back as possible while still being able to resolve the ruler. Also, if you want some designed-in mounting points, take three orthogonal photos of the holley: front, top, side with a reference ruler included in each.
See the difference? If I were to try to copy this drone, I wouldn't be able to tell exactly how far the motors are from the body. The far away cropped picture reduces this uncertainty.
Send me a photo of your holley dash with a ruler for reference. See below, it's better to take a far away photo and crop it, than to take a close up photo. Take it as far back as possible while still being able to resolve the ruler. Also, if you want some designed-in mounting points, take three orthogonal photos of the holley: front, top, side with a reference ruler included in each.
See the difference? If I were to try to copy this drone, I wouldn't be able to tell exactly how far the motors are from the body. The far away cropped picture reduces this uncertainty.
Close up - less accurate
Far away and cropped - more accurate
I don’t have it in hand yet, ordered,
not yet shipped.
I’ve been trying to reach
Dmittz
thru pm regarding technical information on your car, but your pm box is full. Please email me at bobzcarz@yahoo.com
Genuinely appreciated!
Bob
Apologies for any intrusion in this thread.
Here are 3D-printable replacements for the plastic parts of the horn buttons on either side of the steering wheel for 94-96 cars. They're designed to use the original metal contacts and springs, although I lost the springs and used ones from disassembled pens. I also used 3-48 x 1/4" screws and nuts to secure the wires. Pictures of the assembly are on the Thingiverse link as well.
I have started making more tools than parts. Currently making jigs for marking 3" exhaust pipes. I did make some adapters for currently available wipers to the early C4 wiper arm
Looks like I forgot to post this, just to add to the thread I designed 3D printable window guides a little while back and did the write-up with install here
I had a MAF delete printed for my 85 Corvette after reading this thread I had it printed in ABS and coated it in resin to help make it air tight. Great part for anyone who has converted to aftermarket efi and no longer needs the rare and pricey MAF sensor. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4649673
