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I'm getting ready to do the valve seals this weekend on my L98. I'll probably use the rope method. I've done a lot of reading (HERE appears to be a good guide). In there, I also see that rocker arms, springs, and ball/pivots should be replaced. Is that all true? I want to keep this job simple so that I can actually get it done...I'm already nervous enough because it sounds like it's easy to really screw something up if you're not careful. I'll try to take photos as I go to help the next guy out.
I personally never cared for anything in my cylinder but that's me. I set the TDC on #1 and that ensures the piston stops the valve dropping anywhere. Do that cylinder and move it to #8 and repeat. Then 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.
If you feel froggy, clean up the valve cover and you can use roller rockers and I'd check the pushrods. Or take off the intake for the lifters.
Is it true that you should use the intake seals for exhaust as well? O'Reilly's has two different part numbers for them and I figured the exhaust has to be more heat-resistant, right?
I set the TDC on #1 and that ensures the piston stops the valve dropping anywhere. Do that (#1) cylinder and move it to #8 and repeat. Then 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.
Since #1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time, you can do those two without rotating the engine. Then rotate 90 deg. to #8 and #5, then #4 and #7, then #3 and #2.
I'd stick with the factory "umbrella" style seals on the exhaust valves. The exhaust ports don't have the high vacuum conditions that the intake ports experience.
Since #1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time, you can do those two without rotating the engine. Then rotate 90 deg. to #8 and #5, then #4 and #7, then #3 and #2.
I'd stick with the factory "umbrella" style seals on the exhaust valves. The exhaust ports don't have the high vacuum conditions that the intake ports experience.
What he said. As for the rockers, *****, and push rods it depends on their condition. If >100K I'd do them for sure. If less than that on a well maintained engine, I would keep them unless I saw wear issues. I would replace the nuts though.
I like the compressed air method, but either of the ways discussed works.
Thanks for all the information-when I put this back together, do I need to do any adjustment to the valves? Or is it just tighten the rockers back down and you're done?
Don't you have a FSM? That question tells me you're not ready to start this kind of a project! That question requires more than a simple post should contain!
It will go very smoothly using the rope method you have chosen. Positive Mental Attitude and it will be a breeze for you!
Have all the parts and tools handy and within reach and you will make the job easier on yourself. Not to forget one's favorite beverage within reach as well...
While Dad is working on the Corvette there is a No-Kid Zone for 5 yards around Dad's Corvette. No interrupting Dad in the middle of the cylinder head
We are all here to help you and learn as you go! It will go just fine as you are a good planner and You are READY to DO this!
Don't you have a FSM? That question tells me you're not ready to start this kind of a project! That question requires more than a simple post should contain!
really? I mean, I've just never done valve work. I'll check the FSM but I'm really new to this, that's why I'm asking for help...
Hey man. Just wanted to let you know I didn't forget you... well I did a little. But uh, I actually looked in my tool box a few weeks back and the seals I still have are actually for a pontiac 400, not a sbc. On top of that a few were crushed and I sort of just forgot to update you... so my bad.
As far as not losing a valve, the way I was told by my friend is to run compressed air in the cylinder you're not going to work on. That'll put it at BDC. The 2 cylinders 180 degrees away from that one will now be at TDC. Then there's no guessing with degrees of rotation from the balancer.
Since #1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time, you can do those two without rotating the engine. Then rotate 90 deg. to #8 and #5, then #4 and #7, then #3 and #2.
I'd stick with the factory "umbrella" style seals on the exhaust valves. The exhaust ports don't have the high vacuum conditions that the intake ports experience.
Doh. Just got done helping someone with a 4 cylinder engine.
Hey man. Just wanted to let you know I didn't forget you... well I did a little. But uh, I actually looked in my tool box a few weeks back and the seals I still have are actually for a pontiac 400, not a sbc. On top of that a few were crushed and I sort of just forgot to update you... so my bad.
As far as not losing a valve, the way I was told by my friend is to run compressed air in the cylinder you're not going to work on. That'll put it at BDC. The 2 cylinders 180 degrees away from that one will now be at TDC. Then there's no guessing with degrees of rotation from the balancer.
I don't follow. I thought the air or rope trick was to keep the valves in place? Why pressurize the cylinder you are NOT going to work on?
I don't follow. I thought the air or rope trick was to keep the valves in place? Why pressurize the cylinder you are NOT going to work on?
because aside from cylinder #1, how do you really know if the one you're working on is at TDC (unless you have a 360 degree marked balancer). If you force one to BDC with air, the twin on the crank will 100% certain be at TDC. For example, 1 at BDC, 7 at TDC. 3 at BDC 5 at TDC. Removes all the guess work on where each piston is because the one filled with air will most definitely be at BDC.
because aside from cylinder #1, how do you really know if the one you're working on is at TDC (unless you have a 360 degree marked balancer). If you force one to BDC with air, the twin on the crank will 100% certain be at TDC. For example, 1 at BDC, 7 at TDC. 3 at BDC 5 at TDC. Removes all the guess work on where each piston is because the one filled with air will most definitely be at BDC.
because aside from cylinder #1, how do you really know if the one you're working on is at TDC (unless you have a 360 degree marked balancer). If you force one to BDC with air, the twin on the crank will 100% certain be at TDC. For example, 1 at BDC, 7 at TDC. 3 at BDC 5 at TDC. Removes all the guess work on where each piston is because the one filled with air will most definitely be at BDC.
Clever! would you do this instead of pressurizing the one you’re working on? that’s what I’ve always been told.
@84 4+3 thanks for letting me know. I went and bought felpros today, I appreciate you being willing to share though.
this is a job that you really need to know what you are doing, you should be watching video's and a lot of them. or consider just pulling the heads off and be done with it, clean the valves and carbon depsoits while you have them off. if you drop a valve. you will be taking them off regardless. just my 2 cents for what it's worth
this is a job that you really need to know what you are doing, you should be watching video's and a lot of them. or consider just pulling the heads off and be done with it, clean the valves and carbon depsoits while you have them off. if you drop a valve. you will be taking them off regardless. just my 2 cents for what it's worth
So take out the heads, clean them, replace valve springs, 3 angle valve job, fluff them up a bit or get an altogether new set and while you are at it, get a new intake and since things are out, get headers and then a dyno tune. I think I've seen this movie before.
yeah that is quite a bit different from removing them and throwing em on a bench on the garage but okay. my point i was making to him is he is asking the very most basic questions of the job and just removing them and doing the job off vehicle my be a better option. I wish i had your money though, geez. i am poor. i HAVE to do stuff like that myself
yeah that is quite a bit different from removing them and throwing em on a bench on the garage but okay. my point i was making to him is he is asking the very most basic questions of the job and just removing them and doing the job off vehicle my be a better option. I wish i had your money though, geez. i am poor. i HAVE to do stuff like that myself
When it comes to grinding or porting and polishing, I can't afford to do it myself. I don't trust myself with delicate work like that. I have broken too many things and ended up paying more. Most times I cheap out, I am actually paying more in the long run.