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Air was fine last fall. Got a recharge kit with gauge. It says if compressor is not cycling take to pro.
1 Compressor not cycling
2 Jumped it and the clutch is working
3 The gauge when attached has no movement..
A friend said just give it a very small shot or two to see if it matters.
When you put gauge and you sure it is on you have no movement 0 on gauge, unless you have a defective gauge you're system is empty. Which means you have a fair leak in system, that has to be found.
You can pick up a can of Freon that has a Dye Charge in it and most Large Auto Parts Stores have the Black Light you can Rent, But REFRANE from using a Stop Leak Can that can lead to other problems.
1 can with dye and a just in case second 134a only. Sometimes it takes a second can to get AC operating well enough for dye to seap out. If you hear hissing like flat tire, something has a hole in it. Look for oil build up on connections and components, it's a telltale of a leak. Condensers can catch road debris causing holes.
You can check it by adding 1 small can of freon, that should kick compressor on. If it is working then you need to draw a vacuum to fill it as you cannot get 3 12oz cans in if it has a leak.
Had a can of Freon with some left. Added to system and gauge came up. Compressor cycled several times in short bursts. Gauge is up to top of green and stayed there for several hours. I am going to check again today and see if it held. No hissing noise no visible signs of a leak. I did notice the compressor stopped the cycling again. If it is down gauge again will start a leak search. I know very little about A/C but I'm learning.
You need to take this to an ac shop and have it repaired properly. If it was good last fall but not now, you have a leak. AC leaks don't fix themselves. By your own admission, you know little about ac systems. Since your gauge showed 0 at the first, it means your system was empty of refrigerant and now has a gut full of atmosphere containing moisture. This moisture creates acids in the system and if it is PAG oil, your oil is also polluted since PAG oil is hygroscopic. Non-condensables(air) in the system also creates high head pressures and makes for an overall inefficient system. A reliable shop will find the leak, change your dryer, purge with nitrogen and evacuate the system. Before adding refrigerant, they will see that it holds a vacuum. If you don't do this, the odds are you can add a compressor to your shopping list down the road.
Like above the short bursts are the low pressure switch getting just enough pressure to start and when the compressor kicks in the switch shuts back off.
You can use stop;leak if you want since alot of leaks are at the connections. Mabey it would work. You are full of atmoshere so you need to draw the vacuum
now. It is a good time to go to a shop and have them charge it if you don't have a vacuum pump and guages.
You didn't say what year your car is. If it's an 80's or early 90's it came with R12 unless someone upgraded to 134. If it har R12 in it and you added 134 you better take it to a pro, the two are not compatible and will ruin your whole system.
Added two cans working properly now. Had it to a shop and they did almost nothing. The controls needed rebuilt as the blend door would not change. He looked at it in the fall of 2018. Took Freon out so the air would not work and freeze us out. A friend Put a very small charge in last spring thus the 1/2 can left over. Worked fine all last summer. Ice cold now. It is an 89 and was converted to 134 years ago. I will watch it closely and anything strange it will go to a different shop.