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Currently, it is a 96 CE LT4 with about 58K miles. Procharged/Intercooled 8PSI making 385RWHP at 5800RPM through a Corsa Cat-Back. Car has been lowered by a bolt kit about an 1" or so, windows tinted, Targa bar for top out driving and a short throw shifter. Car is otherwise healthy, with good fluids, no codes, custom tuned, and boost/Fuel Pressure gages to keep an eye on things.
Goal was to get close to 450RWHP but look stock-ish. Now, we will bump that to 500RWHP. Call it operation “Not your Dad’s Corvette”. Yes, there will be clues to other “car guys” but what I am getting at is I don’t want to change the wheels, do any body modifications, stripes, decals, fins, wings, other decorative items or a bunch of add on electronics visible in the cabin … smooth. I like the stock look of the later C4s a lot. We will call it a sleeper C4 since most people think they are supposed to be slow. Obviously, opening the hood will reveal some truths, but just from passing by or to a glance from a casual observer, I want it to appear as just another C4 and leave them wondering why it sounds so mean. The car is a cruiser, will see 2 or 3 competitive events each year, multiple cars & coffee and other shows, and spends a lot of time blasting up back country roads. This will also fulfill my desire to always have a built car that is way faster than it should be.
I will be keeping notes on suggestions as this goes on and research them. Will update this as parts are purchased and installed… keep a reasonable build diary here, we will see how detailed it gets. It will probably be a few years before completion. I also have an IROC with projects I plan to do, however I never have both cars down at one time. For the most part, I do one project and then switch cars for the next. I don’t usually work on my cars with a schedule, just when I get free time.
What is on its way?
AFR 210's 64cc Chambers, loaded, 7/16” rocker studs ported by Lloyd Elliot info provided:
Major parts I know that will be needed to make this build happen:
Cam: Emailed Lloyd Elliot today and will order a recommended package. The kit previously had a matched cam, but got sold separately. I am guessing he will have his notes but the previous combo may not be a match to mine. He suggested a 223/235 .565/.579 114 LSA camshaft, so that is what I went with.
Headers: From my readings, I am pretty sold on the American Racing Headers. Unless there is a better set for installation and clearance, TPIS? Here is where I would sack a few HP to be able to reach my plugs better.
Injectors: This is going to require some research on size and which brand will be best once I know what size to run.
Fuel Pump: going to need to be bigger. Haven’t spent much time on this one in recent years. Used to be a Walboro 255 was enough to support anything. I am sure there are better options available today.
Throttle Body: The manifold is ported to a 58mm. I am not a huge fan of upgrading the TB on most combos, but I believe with the flow capabilities of this combo, it will be in order. What are the high quality units out there these days? Update: Looks like all the same players, so I went with AS&M.
Brakes: I already have my plan together for this one. Since the C4 GS/CE had an improved J55 caliper, I am just going to stick with them, paint them, put slotted rotors on, better pads, stainless lines, bias spring and complete fluid flush. Update: StopTech Rotors, Goodridge Lines, Paint, and Carbotech Pads with a DRM bias spring was selected here.
Suspension: This one is a bit open. I know I want to go to a better nonadjustable shock that the factory. I am sure my bushings could all be replaced. I don’t want to go crazy here. The car is superior to my driving capabilities for now.
Tuning: Nobody local, so it looks like Jet DST will be in order. I will be going mail order tune to get the initial tuning done and get it on the road. I do have access to a dyno to get some dyno runs in with logs. Just have to see how it shakes out and how hard to tuning is to get worked out. I am currently installing an EBL system in my IROC. Depending on how much I learn there, I may tackle some of the tuning on the Corvette. Or is this the time to ditch the Opti and do a Torque Head or other solution? That adds a significant cost but makes this section easier.
What else may be in order:
Gear: Figuring the 210's and matching cam will make it's peak power around 6500RPMs, will a 3.54 be enough. I know I am giving up some lower RPM torque and Elliot’s site says a 3.42 or better gear for a cam close to the specs above in Y&F body platforms. Should I be looking as deep as a 4.10/4.33? Will that still be able to keep the rear tires under the car?
Clutch: As far as I know, all is factory with my clutch. Probably isn’t going to handle this. Even if it does initially, I fear slipping will not be too far behind. So, any comments on clutches would be great.
Flywheel: Is going lightweight with this build a good idea? I was considering it as the car sits, but with the bump in RPM with the bigger heads/cam I may need that mass at low RPMs. Thoughts?
Bottom End: With low miles, I think I will leave it as a 350 for now. Since the larger chambers are going to drop the compression a bit, I feel like the bottom end has a chance. Also considering this isn't going to be a race car that gets pounded on regularly, I think it has some years on it. If I break something, I would go with a forged bottom end 383. Can break that down when the time comes. Feel free to comment though, just don't see it needed right off.
Supercharger Pulley: With the larger chambers I can run more boost safely, but what about the efficiency range of the blower itself. This is another topic that could use some discussion. Also may need to address belt slip with a more aggressive engine. No current issues, but the engine will be trying to accelerate much faster once the heads/cam/intake are on.
I figure the steps will be: Do the Brakes and then the suspension upgrades while I collect parts. Then do some of the supporting mods before tearing into the motor. By this I mean getting the fuel pump in, doing the clutch and gear if it goes that way, and other odds and ends that come up.
So, have at it. I am not saying money is no option, but I want it done right with quality parts. Also, all guesses of RWHP will be entertained as once it is built, it will go to the chassis dyno. Goal is 500RWHP and not breaking anything. As decisions are made I will update this post to reflect that a decision has been made. I know some of you will have fun with this, so have at it. @dizwiz24@Tom400CFI@MatthewMiller chime in please.
Last edited by KyleF; Aug 7, 2020 at 02:15 PM.
Reason: Updated Information
I don't. I am not trying to hide the supercharger, anything under the hood, or the sound of the exhaust at all. It's the outward appearance that I do not want to step away from factory with, aside from the exhaust tips.
Someone who knows C4s will be able to start picking stuff off right away. I get that, but I don't want an untrained eye knowing what it is from 10' away, but the exhaust and idle can give it away. I am not going for super loud though. I still plan on road tripping the car some. Think about the picture I posted, I want it to look the exact same 5 years from now.
IDK if you're down with spending the money, but have you considered moving to a large displacement block? Like a 4.125 bore block with more stroke to get you over 400 CID? I like big motors b/c, as you know, they more docile for a given HP goal. Plus the low end tq is nice, too.
What ever you do, it should be wicked. Maybe that should be your plate!
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jul 6, 2020 at 03:01 PM.
Question, and I know it doesn't matter much but I am curious, why are those exhaust numbers down substantially in flow compared to what AFR publishes for the 210 LT? I've seen their numbers are usually spot on but there are a few outliers in the provided info.
As far as cam, LSA is probably right, I suspect the degrees at .05 are also close and I would say it'll be a higher lift cam, closer to .6 valve to take advantage of the head flow. Now if he keeps the lift down, I would say more like a 232/242 then but that's me.
For the headers, as long as they are angle plug heads I would think clearance isn't a problem. Mine are easier now than stock but mine are melrose which are NLA...
IDK if you're down with spending the money, but have you considered moving to a large displacement block? Like a 4.125 bore block with more stroke to get you over 400 CID? I like big motors b/c, as you know, they more docile for a given HP goal. Plus the low end tq is nice, too.
What ever you do, it should be wicked. Maybe that should be your plate!
.
I am not from Boston...
Yes, as I mentioned in my initial post, the bottom end may be done later. With a new bottom end, a better cam for the new displacement wouldn't be out of the question.
I wouldn't go crazy on the cam or spend a ton of money on the heads. I'd just up the boost.
People didn't think my bottom end would hold together with 12PSI, with larger chambers that may not be much of a concern.
More boost is possible once other things are in place.
Note from the beginning, the heads are LE Ported AFR 210s. I was able to purchase them with a port matched LT4 intake for less than the retail price of standard AFR heads. I was just planning on using 195s, but as I said... a little more RPM doesn't hurt. Since that was one of the first major components cost wise, I am going to build my combo to them.
223/235 .565/.579 114 LSA camshaft - this will have a lil more aggressive idle (similar to a CC 503 camshaft) while having a lil less vacuum and street manors than the above camshaft but still considered very drivable by most people. It can be lugged around about 1600 RPM (with good tuning) and get you a lil more HP/TQ in the mid range and top end over the above cam (20-30 HP at 6000 RPM) but a lil less power right off idle and low RPM (idle-2500 RPM).
I was a little surprised. Cam seems small
I asked him to confirm with the heads and charger that this was what he thought was best.
People didn't think my bottom end would hold together with 12PSI, with larger chambers that may not be much of a concern.
More boost is possible once other things are in place.
Note from the beginning, the heads are LE Ported AFR 210s. I was able to purchase them with a port matched LT4 intake for less than the retail price of standard AFR heads. I was just planning on using 195s, but as I said... a little more RPM doesn't hurt. Since that was one of the first major components cost wise, I am going to build my combo to them.
Your bottom end doesnt care absolutely at all about boost. 500 ft-lbs N/A with heads/intake and a big cam and 500 ft-lbs with stock heads/intake/cam and 18 PSI are the exact same amount of stress.
223/235 .565/.579 114 LSA camshaft - this will have a lil more aggressive idle (similar to a CC 503 camshaft) while having a lil less vacuum and street manors than the above camshaft but still considered very drivable by most people. It can be lugged around about 1600 RPM (with good tuning) and get you a lil more HP/TQ in the mid range and top end over the above cam (20-30 HP at 6000 RPM) but a lil less power right off idle and low RPM (idle-2500 RPM).
I was a little surprised. Cam seems small
I asked him to confirm with the heads and charger that this was what he thought was best.
Wonder what the valve timing events are. The intake exhaust split seems about right though.
500hp wIth a blower isn't super hard to do though and the cam isn't as picky i suppose.
Wonder what the valve timing events are. The intake exhaust split seems about right though.
500hp wIth a blower isn't super hard to do though and the cam isn't as picky i suppose.
2 things have me suggesting these smaller duration cams. More duration will spin more RPM, make more top end HP but also trade off less low end power and low RPM drivability. Larger duration cams also bleed off cylinder pressure and we don’t have tons to work with. Largest I would go with that compression would be mid 230s intake duration (235/243 .600/.610 110 LSA range) to keep cylinder pressure up and that would be. This would work with 3.42/3.73 gears and 3200/3600 stall but some arent gonna like the low RPM drivability from idle to 2000 RPM"
Looks like I will opt for the 223/235 .565/.579 114 LSA camshaft
Currently, it is a 96 CE LT4 with about 58K miles. Procharged/Intercooled 8PSI making 385RWHP at 5800RPM through a Corsa Cat-Back. Car has been lowered by a bolt kit about an 1" or so, windows tinted, Targa bar for top out driving and a short throw shifter. Car is otherwise healthy, with good fluids, no codes, custom tuned, and boost/Fuel Pressure gages to keep an eye on things.
Goal was to get close to 450RWHP but look stock-ish. Now, we will bump that to 500RWHP. Call it operation “Not your Dad’s Corvette”. Yes, there will be clues to other “car guys” but what I am getting at is I don’t want to change the wheels, do any body modifications, stripes, decals, fins, wings, other decorative items or a bunch of add on electronics visible in the cabin … smooth. I like the stock look of the later C4s a lot. We will call it a sleeper C4 since most people think they are supposed to be slow. Obviously, opening the hood will reveal some truths, but just from passing by or to a glance from a casual observer, I want it to appear as just another C4 and leave them wondering why it sounds so mean. The car is a cruiser, will see 2 or 3 competitive events each year, multiple cars & coffee and other shows, and spends a lot of time blasting up back country roads. This will also fulfill my desire to always have a built car that is way faster than it should be.
I will be keeping notes on suggestions as this goes on and research them. Will update this as parts are purchased and installed… keep a reasonable build diary here, we will see how detailed it gets. It will probably be a few years before completion. I also have an IROC with projects I plan to do, however I never have both cars down at one time. For the most part, I do one project and then switch cars for the next. I don’t usually work on my cars with a schedule, just when I get free time.
What is on its way?
AFR 210's 64cc Chambers, loaded, 7/16” rocker studs ported by Lloyd Elliot info provided:
Major parts I know that will be needed to make this build happen:
Cam: Emailed Lloyd Elliot today and will order a recommended package. The kit previously had a matched cam, but got sold separately. I am guessing he will have his notes but the previous combo may not be a match to mine. He suggested a 223/235 .565/.579 114 LSA camshaft.
Headers: From my readings, I am pretty sold on the American Racing Headers. Unless there is a better set for installation and clearance, TPIS? Here is where I would sack a few HP to be able to reach my plugs better.
Injectors: This is going to require some research on size and which brand will be best once I know what size to run.
Fuel Pump: going to need to be bigger. Haven’t spent much time on this one in recent years. Used to be a Walboro 255 was enough to support anything. I am sure there are better options available today.
Throttle Body: The manifold is ported to a 58mm. I am not a huge fan of upgrading the TB on most combos, but I believe with the flow capabilities of this combo, it will be in order. What are the high quality units out there these days?
Brakes: I already have my plan together for this one. Since the C4 GS/CE had an improved J55 caliper, I am just going to stick with them, paint them, put slotted rotors on, better pads, stainless lines, and complete fluid flush.
Suspension: This one is a bit open. I know I want to go to a better nonadjustable shock that the factory. I am sure my bushings could all be replaced. I don’t want to go crazy here. The car is superior to my driving capabilities for now.
Tuning: Nobody local, so it looks like Jet DST will be in order. I will be going mail order tune to get the initial tuning done and get it on the road. I do have access to a dyno to get some dyno runs in with logs. Just have to see how it shakes out and how hard to tuning is to get worked out. I am currently installing an EBL system in my IROC. Depending on how much I learn there, I may tackle some of the tuning on the Corvette. Or is this the time to ditch the Opti and do a Torque Head or other solution? That adds a significant cost but makes this section easier.
What else may be in order:
Gear: Figuring the 210's and matching cam will make it's peak power around 6500RPMs, will a 3.54 be enough. I know I am giving up some lower RPM torque and Elliot’s site says a 3.42 or better gear for a cam close to the specs above in Y&F body platforms. Should I be looking as deep as a 4.10/4.33? Will that still be able to keep the rear tires under the car?
Clutch: As far as I know, all is factory with my clutch. Probably isn’t going to handle this. Even if it does initially, I fear slipping will not be too far behind. So, any comments on clutches would be great.
Flywheel: Is going lightweight with this build a good idea? I was considering it as the car sits, but with the bump in RPM with the bigger heads/cam I may need that mass at low RPMs. Thoughts?
Bottom End: With low miles, I think I will leave it as a 350 for now. Since the larger chambers are going to drop the compression a bit, I feel like the bottom end has a chance. Also considering this isn't going to be a race car that gets pounded on regularly, I think it has some years on it. If I break something, I would go with a forged bottom end 383. Can break that down when the time comes. Feel free to comment though, just don't see it needed right off.
Supercharger Pulley: With the larger chambers I can run more boost safely, but what about the efficiency range of the blower itself. This is another topic that could use some discussion. Also may need to address belt slip with a more aggressive engine. No current issues, but the engine will be trying to accelerate much faster once the heads/cam/intake are on.
I figure the steps will be: Do the Brakes and then the suspension upgrades while I collect parts. Then do some of the supporting mods before tearing into the motor. By this I mean getting the fuel pump in, doing the clutch and gear if it goes that way, and other odds and ends that come up.
So, have at it. I am not saying money is no option, but I want it done right with quality parts. Also, all guesses of RWHP will be entertained as once it is built, it will go to the chassis dyno. Goal is 500RWHP and not breaking anything. As decisions are made I will update this post to reflect that a decision has been made. I know some of you will have fun with this, so have at it. @dizwiz24@Tom400CFI@MatthewMiller chime in please.
first off the heads. What static compression ratio will those get you ?
i ended up with 9.7:1 (from my calcs - who knows if i did them right) with a 61? cc afr 195 comp elim head
64 is gonna put you even lower. That could hurt you off boost and low rpm and fuel econ- where you do most of your driving. You could easily mill your heads to get back that CR if you are worried
you wanna see nuts high compression with centrifugal blowers, ask the c5/c6 guys what CR they are running
in fact, their forced induction columns are a great plce for info. Contrary to what the c4 forum thinks, the lsx is NOT that different of an engine vs ours for boost. it has 8 cylinders , in a v configuration , and heads As our also
have. Now the direct injected lsx (lt1) IS very different how it reacts to fuel/ethanol, etc. So id stay out of the c7 forced induction forums...it is a different animal
Intake. I had mine ported by lloyd elliot and i remembered i had to use special afr intake gaskets bc lt1 and lt4 style intake gaskets didnt seem to line up as well. I also had him knock out the front of it for the monoblade TB I run.
cam. Yeah thats the sam cam i run. 224/236 114 lsa. Got it from lloyd elliot. You’ll want to see how much advance he has ground into it to see if you will benefit from advancing the cam timing (i have an lt4 extreme duty timing set with 4 deg advance, neutral and 4 deg retard keyways) ... you’ll wanna check piston to intake valve clearance and make sure you are in safe tolerance.
i forgot to do this and as such run neutral (vs advamced). I always wonder if advance would make a better low end..at expense on top).
supercharger...yes efficiency is important. I recently went from a 2.75” pulley to a 2.625” colleted pulley on my p600b (a smaller blower, but not tiny like many act. Its basically a p1-sc). It has a dedicateD drive 8 rib belt with no evidence of slip.
that said....boost maxes out by 6000 rpm (at 12.75psi) . Spinning higher doesnt result in more boost. I believe the engine is ‘requiring’ more air than the supecharger can deliver to keep increasing the boost. It can only maintain that boost. so im obviously at the limit of what the blower can do. The fun factor falls off after 6000 but is more fun now at 4000 - a more likely rpm where im typically operating at.
clutch: i run spec stage 3+, fidanza lightweight flywheel and the setup is bulletproof
tuning: you are going to have to learn to do it yourself.
i have no idea if JET is keeping up with the software
for my 1993, datacat (to log) and tunercat (to tune) is amazing. Since 2014, ive been using a 2 bar map modified speed density tune (for 1992-1993) and it works seamless. Fuel comes on with boost as it should at any rpm.
i even run e56 (i blend e85 with 93 octane)and tune for that as well using a lower fuel injector constant (ex. Tell it i have 45 lb injectors instead of 60’s)...and fine tune the VE table
i use a moates ostrch plugged into my chip
socket (bc 1993 still used removable eeprom chips)
fuel:
i have 63 lb/hr inj (would like to go to 80’s so i could run full e85)
walbro 450 l/hr intank pump with racetronix relay kit AND upgraded intank bulkhead plug/wiring
i burned out my bulkhead plug trying to run this pump , despite having racetronix harness elsewhere - so upgrade that part.
before that pump, greg at blowerworks sold me a walbro 255 l/hr pump feeding a gsl-392 (255 l/hr) external pump. that was a good setup using less ‘amps’ and fuel heating....however when going to ethanol blends i wanted more fuel pump.
my weak links are my blower, lack of intercooler (though i have meth/water inj) and stock bottom end/ stock displacement. They will be my next points of improvement
probably 30000 miles on this setup. Dont let anyone tell you the stock bottom end cant take it
first off the heads. What static compression ratio will those get you ?
i ended up with 9.7:1 (from my calcs - who knows if i did them right) with a 61? cc afr 195 comp elim head
64 is gonna put you even lower. That could hurt you off boost and low rpm and fuel econ- where you do most of your driving. You could easily mill your heads to get back that CR if you are worried
you wanna see nuts high compression with centrifugal blowers, ask the c5/c6 guys what CR they are running
in fact, their forced induction columns are a great plce for info. Contrary to what the c4 forum thinks, the lsx is NOT that different of an engine vs ours for boost. it has 8 cylinders , in a v configuration , and heads just like ours. Now the direct injected lsx (lt1) IS very different how it reacts to fuel/ethanol, etc. So id stay out of the c7 forced induction forums...it is a different animal
Intake. I had mine ported by lloyd elliot and i remembered i had to use special afr intake gaskets bc lt1 and lt4 style intake gaskets didnt seem to line up as well. I also had him knock out the front of it for the monoblade TB I run.
cam. Yeah thats the sam cam i run. 224/236 114 lsa. Got it from lloyd elliot. You’ll want to see how much advance he has ground into it to see if you will benefit from advancing the cam timing (i have an lt4 extreme duty timing set with 4 deg advance, neutral and 4 deg retard keyways) ... you’ll wanna check piston to intake valve clearance and make sure you are in safe tolerance.
i forgot to do this and as such run neutral (vs advamced). I always wonder if advance would make a better low end..at expense on top).
supercharger...yes efficiency is important. I recently went from a 2.75” pulley to a 2.625” colleted pulley on my p600b (a smaller blower, but not tiny like many act. Its basically a p1-sc). It has a dedicateD drive 8 rib belt with no evidence of slip.
that said....boost maxes out by 6000 rpm (at 12.75psi) . Spinning higher doesnt result in more boost. I believe the engine is ‘requiring’ more air than the supecharger can deliver to keep increasing the boost. It can only maintain that boost. so im obviously at the limit of what the blower can do. The fun factor falls off after 6000 but is more fun now at 4000 - a more likely rpm where im typically operating at.
clutch: i run spec stage 3+, fidanza lightweight flywheel and the setup is bulletproof
tuning: you are going to have to learn to do it yourself.
i have no idea if JET is keeping up with the software
for my 1993, datacat (to log) and tunercat (to tune) is amazing. Since 2014, ive been using a 2 bar map modified speed density tune (for 1992-1993) and it works seamless. Fuel comes on with boost as it should at any rpm.
i even run e56 (i blend e85 with 93 octane)and tune for that as well using a lower fuel injector constant (ex. Tell it i have 45 lb injectors instead of 60’s)...and fine tune the VE table
i use a moates ostrch plugged into my chip
socket (bc 1993 still used removable eeprom chips)
fuel:
i have 63 lb/hr inj (would like to go to 80’s so i could run full e85)
walbro 450 l/hr intank pump with racetronix relay kit AND upgraded intank bulkhead plug/wiring
i burned out my bulkhead plug trying to run this pump , despite having racetronix harness elsewhere - so upgrade that part.
before that pump, greg at blowerworks sold me a walbro 255 l/hr pump feeding a gsl-392 (255 l/hr) external pump. that was a good setup using less ‘amps’ and fuel heating....however when going to ethanol blends i wanted more fuel pump.
my weak link is my blower and stock
bottom end. They will be my next points of improvement
probably 30000 miles on this setup. Dont let anyone tell you the stock bottom end cant take it
ask me for any advice
The lower compression will only be an issue with poor valve timing events. If the cam is speced to the application I don't see it being an issue. Plenty of 9:1 engines that make great power.
as as a newbie here, I respectfully mention you might want to replace the hypereutectic pistons with forged slugs at that rwhp level; but I certainly wish you luck and longevity with the improvements!
mike lonergan
I have a 95 LT1 Camaro engine and although it is not in a Corvette it is supercharged and does have a stock bottom end. I have a Vortech S1 supercharger running 8-9 lbs boost with Advanced induction 180 cc heads, stock LT1 intake and a 54 mm TB. The block has been decked .018" and I use .027 head gaskets to reduce the quench to .038" yielding a compression ratio of 10.9:1. I have a Comp Cams 220/230 114 lsa with .544 lift using 1.6 roller rockers. The engine makes 469 rwhp @ 5700 and 479 rwtq @ 4200, it idles with 16" vacuum and will drive smoothly as low as 1600 rpm in 6th gear on the freeway. I attribute my water/meth injection and the reduced quench to the engine's ability to run on 91 octane California gas without detonation.
I think you should have no trouble making over 500 rwhp with what you have planned.
Called and Placed my Order with Lloyd Elliot for my cam. After discussion we decided a 223/235 .565/.579 on 114LSA will work best for my combo. Give me enough low end to still enjoy driving at low speeds, but have enough top end to keep up with the 210s. He also said the cam will work with a lot more boost if I want more later. I will post the full Cam card once it is delivered.
Parts accumulation is under way.
Guessing my the #s those arent the comp port? Looks like he did a basic cleanup on them...(but why are the valves still caked up)With a good head and FI you dont need a bunch of cam
I like the smaller of the 2 , that will work perfectly with the gear you have now and allow you to stay in the torque band longer....youll love it.
If you cammed it up and geared to suit you would have to (still might wana consider it) run M/T full time so you dont wrap it around a pole. On the strip it would be awesome not so sure if its worth it just as a street car
Is all this stuff smog legal just curious
Love sleepers..failed at my attempt on the Camino, wheels and exhaust note give it away
On this 88 I just picked up down the road would like to build something with brute torque...stock wheels, stock mufflers so its truly quiet etc. 3.45 gear so it can maybe dip in the 12s. ..not super fast but fun enough.
Noone expects an early C4 to do much past 0-30mph
"Not Your Dad's Corvette" build thread
at expense on top).
