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Does anyone know how much power and torque the standard L98 86" connecting rods and crankshaft can handle?
I have forged pistons but otherwise standard bottom end and now run 6 psi boost 403hp 442 ft lbs.
I was wondering if I could increase the boost pressure without exploding the engine...
Does anyone know how much power and torque the standard L98 86" connecting rods and crankshaft can handle?
I have forged pistons but otherwise standard bottom end and now run 6 psi boost 403hp 442 ft lbs.
I was wondering if I could increase the boost pressure without exploding the engine...
I think it is going to be mostly about managing detonation. What are you doing for engine management? If you've got a sane spark and fuel map you've got a lot more to go. I got mine up to a bit over 700ftlbs at the wheels on the dyno before the transmission started slipping so we backed it off. Torque is what kills engines not power. I left it at its 550ftlbs at the wheels setting and have driven it that way ever since, including beating on it at autox and lots of street driving having fun
edit I see your signature -- if your IATs are staying good I would definitely mess with a smaller pulley. you could post a screenshot of your spark map in tunerstudio as well if you'd like a review. You may end up needing a new clutch
Does anyone know how much power and torque the standard L98 86" connecting rods and crankshaft can handle?
I have forged pistons but otherwise standard bottom end and now run 6 psi boost 403hp 442 ft lbs.
I was wondering if I could increase the boost pressure without exploding the engine...
Probably too many variables to really know for sure, but I would start getting nervous around 500ft lbs. Otherwise it is going to be detonation that will get you and it can get a 300hp engine. The boost pressure won't get you either unless it starts to up the heat. The blower has an efficiency range of CFM at PSI, when you start stepping outside of that bad things can happen. Boost is a measure of resistance, you could make more power on less boost with a better flowing intake track to the cylinder. As said above, I would watch the IAT and if it is climbing, time to look elsewhere besides boost.
fk yeah now youre talking!! Got any pics or build links?
I only wish....with ca smog we are strangled. 383 and tiny cam/heads if were lucky, SC with carb # maybe
Would help crutch this crappy 2xx gear, hate it but not putting a rearend in it.
So you're in Kali... Only 2 SC kits that have a carb eo number. The Paxton SN series with water injection (BTW I'm selling my previous SN2000) or the Procharger P600b with intercooler. I have a 383 with a super ram intake that got 5-6 psi with the paxton and then 15psi with the procharger. With (no intercooler-test running it) 15psi the cheaper forged pistons I had came apart-now building another 383 with 2618 forged pistons, AFR 195 heads have eo number also. As for the cam just can't go too big-make sure it doesn't lope at idle and then have to tune it for clean at the tailpipe. Anything that can be seen has to have an eo number. At least OBD1 doesn't get scanned for factory checksum like OBD2!!
Does anyone know how much power and torque the standard L98 86" connecting rods and crankshaft can handle?
I have forged pistons but otherwise standard bottom end and now run 6 psi boost 403hp 442 ft lbs.
I was wondering if I could increase the boost pressure without exploding the engine...
I see in your sig that you run water/meth injection. Inspect it frequently! My #7 and 8 pistons came apart. they were forged but 4032, not 2168, but once I verified it was not ring ends butting together it didn't make sense. However on tearing everything down I found the water line for my water injection had a split in it. So it was getting some in there, but not near enough. I'm figuring out intercooler placement for the rebuild.
Alright.
Thanks for the tip, I have to check that the pump is working and methanol is coming out of the nozzles
I just added another nozzle for methanol, previously I only had one nozzle.
Now there are two