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This works so long as your speedometer was correct/accurate before the gear swap OR as Abbott does the calculations is by actual MPH and 'displayed' MPH. Assuming it was correct and the speedo displayed 60 after the change then actual is likely something near 44 MPH after the gear change. The math don't change much. You can certainly try IHBD suggestion then check with GPS. If you've still issues don't call before you confirm it's actually connected correctly.
Abbott uses MPH 'actual' and 'displayed' for all their calculations BECAUSE it's what you bought it for 'SPEEDOMETER CORRECTION'
Now when you're done you actually confirm by doing some 'measured miles' to confirm odometer is correct.\
***Post #42 displays 'sorta' the waste of time calling before confirming 'the install'! I ask where it was installed also. Take the info from post #42 and realize 'where located & how wired' MATTERS!!!!! Seems that for starters they'll likely suggest a short cut of using ratios 'if known' and speedo/odo was 'assumed' to be correct with the old! Post #42 also hints it's pretty easy to fail installs!
Reviving an old thread: I have my 3.54 gears in plus the abbot ERA for the speedo, and I can't get anywhere near the correct speedo reading following their chart. Now, I didn't install the unit, the fellow who did my gears did--so maybe install error, but I doubt it. The calculator on the site says I need a 1.7 adjustment, which gets me about 20MPH shy of 60. So I tried starting at 1.65 and walked through to 1.75 and I got everything from 2MPH indicated at an actual 60MPH to 200 at an actual 60MPH-- no rhythm or reason; i.e. there was no linear progression. It's just crazy. I went from 2.59 to 3.54 maintaining the same wheel size--this shouldn't be this hard. And their directions??? I'm gonna just suppose 0= "off" means the toggle is down (like on my garage opener) because the instructions are silent. Likewise, aside from the top 12 or so toggles, there are 4 on the bottom--first oners up but again NO explanation as to why. The bottom toggles aren't even mentioned in the directions. When the car is running I have a red LED light on in the unit--should it be another color--instructions don't even mention light, let alone the color.
I'm gonna give them a ring tomorrow, but I was just wondering if anyone here has used one of these a 4L60 (NOT E) auto? I generally assume I'm missing something obvious, which I kind of hope so (as I've spent too much time on this already to have to be fussing with sending defective units back.)
On a brighter note: 3.54 gears are an AMAZING difference!
Ronn
Hey Ron having some of the same issues, mine reads 80 mph while setting still. worked with Jerry at Abbott, he's great everyone there was very helpful, I've mounted mine twice right by the ecm with no luck so sent mine back to them they went thru it called me said it worked fine when I got mine back it looked like a new one. I'm going to try to get it installed this week after talking to Jerry he suggested wiring it in right off the vehicle speed sensor, I'm going to mount mine on the inside of the driver side tunnel so its easy to get to. I is On and O is off, the four switches off by them self set the unit for manual or automatic, the one they sent me back has the switches first one up the rest down. Jerry also told me divide my old gear set by the new gear set an then go to the chart. I went to a 3.73 from strange axle it really woke up the car love it. good luck I'll let you know how I made out'
I've disconnected the unit and connected the input (from the speed sensor) to the output (speedo) and I'm gonna run a baseline. As far as I can tell, the unit is wired correctly (ground is clearly ground, hot is clearly hot and if the input out were switched I'd get no signal so...). I didn't like removing the unit from the circuit as my mechanic clearly took his time to solder the wires and wrap them carefully.
We'll see how things pan out. This all just seems too cumbersome to be honest. Many far more complex devices simply are plug-and-play.
I've disconnected the unit and connected the input (from the speed sensor) to the output (speedo) and I'm gonna run a baseline. As far as I can tell, the unit is wired correctly (ground is clearly ground, hot is clearly hot and if the input out were switched I'd get no signal so...). I didn't like removing the unit from the circuit as my mechanic clearly took his time to solder the wires and wrap them carefully.
We'll see how things pan out. This all just seems too cumbersome to be honest. Many far more complex devices simply are plug-and-play.
R
Can you tell if signal is actually connected to 'YELLOW'? Where is it located?
I suspect you're right about my settings. When I took the Abbot out of the speedometer circuit and took a fun drive in today’s afternoon sun, speedo read 84MPH at GPS 60—which my math put at .71
Since the speedometer gave me the expected readings with the Abbot removed, I'm fairly certain it is wired in correctly.
But here’s where things once again got crazy…
I’ll start by saying I’ve a lot of ignorance surrounding these cars; so my first assumption is I’m missing something.
I put the Abbot unit back in the circuit and set the toggles @ .730 (I tried the switches both ways with 1= "up" and 1= "down") and at both settings the speedo read zero at all speeds up to 35. Reset to .950 and speedo read 4 at 35. Now I'm only using 1="up". Reset the unit to 1.00 (which should have been identical to the unit out of the circuit) speedo read zero at all speeds. I could go on as I tried 6 different settings—but now the unit appears to no longer be registering any reasonable speed.
I've a decent understanding of electrical systems (mostly theatrical lighting, but I've installed my fair share of car audios) so I didn't do anything like run a hot right to the sensor input. My mechanic color-coded the wires from/to the vehichal to match the Abbot unit--so blue to blue and white to white--hard to get zanny.
I'm going to take the unit out of the circuit again.
You've also got 'NON STOCK' tires and wheels I imagine?
Your comments 'hint' incorrect wiring.
Where is it mounted? I believe you need to be sure you've used the 'yellow' terminal A cir# 400 of the VSS correctly. I'm quite sure the Abbott needs to be in the VSS HI circuit.
If your #'s are correct this looks to be likely very close = .715 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1
I think I'm onto the problem-- the unit worked before I took it out of the circuit, and not when I put it back. So, user error...
But when I took the Abbot ERA out of the speedo circuit, I also took that opportunity to install my new PCM chip-- which was when I was flipping and jostling the ECM. Chip worked fine, got my baseline from the stock VSS input, and wired the ERA back in, then whamo-- nothing (but 2-4MPH at 35-- literally a short jumping the line?). What if I lost power to the ERA?
My mechanic tapped in power here, using one of those 3M displacement connectors (which I'm not fond of). With the ignition on, there is no power at the Abbot unit and no power at the exposed metal bar seen below. If I stick the voltmeter probe into one of the openings and wiggle it, the light on the Abbot unit will blink a bit. The red 'hot" wire for the About unit is powered here. The unit is on the firewall now beneath the ECM wiring loom. VSS input/output connections (blue/white) are temporary,
EDIT: Just pulled this connector off. It was clearly NEVER making a good connection-- would explain many of my zanny readings.
I'm looking through my Cd ROM service manual for hot "ig. on" wire, but reading wiring diagrams has always been a tough one for me. I'm gonna shoot for finding the wiper motor "hot."
Thanks for all the insights (and sorry for hijacking your thread, John)!!!
R
Last edited by Ronn38; Nov 5, 2021 at 05:05 PM.
Reason: spelling
That pink/blk is likely only .35 mm² /22 AWG wire so you wonder how many strands are destroyed. It's likely terminated @C12 ECM. Check your FSM and confirm where it's destination actually is. It's very likely 5A ECM fuse that's off a 60AMP MAXI through the ignition switch. It should likely be circuit 239. Needs confirmed.
Maybe you actually use a 'Splice Clip' to repair that wire where the Scotchloc™ tap was used. Use of a Splice Clip is also explained in the FSM.
[QUOTE=ihatebarking
There are no wires at the wiper motor that are suitable for hot in RUN or START. (The gray wire will test hot in RUN with the wipers parked, but goes to 0-volts when the wipers are not parked.[/QUOTE]
Maybe you actually use a 'Splice Clip' to repair that wire where the Scotchloc™ tap was used. Use of a Splice Clip is also explained in the FSM.
sounds good— do a little more wire Sherpa’n again Sunday. Just an awfully dainty wire to splice into in a tight space. I think I’ll see if I can work more of it out of the loom, get more working room.
Here's how I would approach this task:
Remove the scotchloc.
Using a razor knife (box cutter), beginning at the incision where the scotchloc was, skin the insulation on the pink/blk about 1/4-3/8" in each direction from the incision. Like sharpening a pencil. You can also begin on the solid wire, and skin towards the incision from each side.
All you need to do is skin one side of the insulation, then peel up any remaining insulation and nip it off with side cutters.
Take a piece of replacement wire of 16 or 18 gauge and remove about 3/4" of insulation from one end. Do not "pre-twist" the strands. Leave them in a loose lay.
Lay the new wire alongside the pink/blk with the skinned insulation lined up on both at one end. If you did not pre-twist the strands, they will twist flat onto the pink/blk's strands.
Wrap the new wire's conductors around the exposed pink/blk's conductors. If there are any broken strands from the scotchloc, use the wrapping to reinforce, enclose, and bridge the broken strands.
Solder the splice.
Insulate the splice. Tape or heatshrink. Heatshrink is preferred, but you'll have to de-pin the pink/blk from its shell to slide the tube onto the wire. This may be more than you'll be comfortable with trying. Tape will be fine.
That's how I'd do it.
Using a 'Splice Clip' you just cut the wire where the Scotchloc™ is, slip 3/32 or appropriate diameter 'Heat Shrink' over one end, insert all 3 into clip, solder and move on. There's some very interesting 'Heat Shrink' products available today. Appears the OP's 'friend' ain't heard of it, The signal wire that requires a 'cut/splice' could be done similarly. There's a whole bunch of what appears to be needless tape wrap going on in the snapshot.
Why would you use 18 or 16AWG and not just match what ever the ERA uses for wire gauge?
I don't HAVE or even KNOW what a "Splice Clip' IS. .
That's amazing!!!
Check any FSM at about 8A-5 (or vicinity) and 'get educated'! There are 3 dealers somewhat close to me that actually still keep them and maybe my local NAPA still does. There's 2 Delphi/Packard part #'s I believe, 5297428 & 1839906. I believe that Packard actually has a 'Crimp and Seal/Shrink w/adhesive' similar to what you call 'Butt Connector' also. Every other terminal supplier I'm sure does also. This stuff should be I'd think available 30 - 60 minutes for the OP. He'll I'm sure figure it out!!
Sound physical splice to the Hot (red/blk), strong but connections to the VSS and Speedo. I haven’t checked the ground—do that in a minuet.
EDIT: Sound ground connection and good tone from ground wire termination to found on the Abbots circuit board. So not ground. More odd, I get the same string tone (continuity) between the ground and the red “hit” wire…? Car was in “off”, no power to unit. Checking only continuity.
.71 setting on Abbot produces erratic readings going to 220MPH. Indicated speed occasionally jumps around during steady-state driving at any setting about .50 (below that is just zero). Tried switches both ways.
I just don't understand these erratic readings, rather than linear progressions. Likes there’s some kind of intermittent shorting—which I just don’t get. Yet still steady indicated 87MPH at 60GPS when the unit is removed from the circuit indicating correct VSS operation, and that the splices to both the VSS and Speedo are sound.
And of course, the car is throwing an H24 code thanks to the erratic speedo readings.
The last thing I’ll try before calling Abbot is to run direct 12-volt power and ground to the unit off the battery and take it for a spin. Rule out bad power supply/ground.
I’d just take the unit out of the circuit and use my GPS—but I don’t want to rack up 1.73 miles on my odometer for every 1 mile I actually drive.
Still possible I’m doing/wiring something wrong, but I just can’t see what it could possibly be.
R
Last edited by Ronn38; Nov 9, 2021 at 08:21 PM.
Reason: New info
There is no "hot" red/blk CAR wire. Do you mean the pink/blk that it was originally taped to? If yes, pnk/blk, this is Ok.
```````````````````````````````````````` ``````````````````````````````
What color CAR wire is the signal of the Abbot connected into? Yellow, purple, or dk grn/wht?
If it is spliced into the purple or yellow, disconnect those connections, restore the yellow or purple wire, and sever the grn/wht coming out of the ECM and insert the Abbot in the dk grn/wht wire. Sorry, I do not have a 1993 FSM to look up the ECM connector and cavity for the desired wire.
My thinking is that the Abbott can't condition an Alternating Current sine wave signal, which is what the 93 VSS outputs on the pur and yel wires. The Abbot can condition a binary hi/lo square wave signal, which is what the ECM puts out on the grn/wht wire that goes to the speedo, cruise control, and radio. Hence why I suggest trying the grn/wht wire. You could also ask Abbot if their deal can condition a sine wave VSS signal.
I get some of this BUT the VSS for all year C4 will work for anything up to '93 and the ERA has been used also for years! Why would you imagine a change?
There's no way to determine how the guy wired the VSS to the ERA using the snapshot in post #50. The interested party hasn't mentioned either. He was very confident in 'the shop's effort' initially also!
If you have the Abbott Electronics Box, Sold by Zip or Jim Pace, etc.
I just hooked one up to an 1988 automatic and it works just fine.
If you have a different year, not sure this will help.
Two wires going to the VSS at the rear of the trans, purple and yellow. Cut/splice into the yellow wire near the trans.
White wire, from box to the VSS/trans side of the cut yellow wire.
Blue wire, from the box to the ECM/car side of the cut yellow wire.
Switch settings ratio, if you haven't changed the old vss & speedo gears, is your old ratio divided by the new rear ratio.
Example 2.59/3.54 = .732
I mounted mine behind the passenger side dash/crash panel.
Drilled small hole in the floor near the shifter and ran the wires up under the dash.
But I had already replaced the dash pad with a guage panel, so it was easy to get behind it and hook up 12volts.
This is a post from 2005 and mentions division using ratio BUT as evidenced by this 'interested user' a correction using actual 'speedo/odo' information is more accurate.
I've always thought that for a C4 a good location would be the compartment behind drivers seat! A 2 terminal 'wire to wire" at/near the VSS everything else in the compartment. A grommet for compartment wire entry. I've always done mechanical corrections. I kept VSS and most gears for years. I've done Abbott but never for a 'full bodied' C4.
'Near (adjacent to) the VSS". This hasn't been brought up in this thread, but now I will. If the car is equipped with FX3, the purple and yellow VSS signal is split prior to the ECM and also goes to the FX3 modulel. Conditioning the signal under the hood at the ECM will not condition the signal going to the FX3. Inserting the conditioning adjacent to the VSS on the transmission will ensure that both the ECM and the FX3 receive the same speed signal value.
The behind the seat compartment location is ideal. Adjacent to the VSS on the transmission, but there is also B+ IGN power and ground available at the ABS, TCS, and FX3 modules.
I asked more than 'once' where installed and I doubt that a C4, 4L60, GM1 axle ratio could be optioned with FX3.
SO? How frequently would you expect that combination be optioned together? Compnine could tell you! Spend some $$$ - it interests me NOT!
That's an interesting build sheet and maybe an easy explanation for the combination of the FX3 and the GM1. It's a Z25 Ruby 'vert. Seems odd that maybe a 'vert wouldn't have other than a base GM1 axle. I would think that a significant % of production with FX3 would have been Z07 builds and of course coupes.
@Ronn38 ain't been back for a while, I wonder how he's progressed through the correction.
Folks have questions regarding build sheets from time to time so I thought it appropriate to 'SECURE' this one for reference by others!!! It's very legible - the blocks and information changed through production but this is a fine example of mid 90's!
