C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Why's my SuperRam so slow?

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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 07:06 PM
  #41  
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If hes coming back to Ca theres no such thing as a friendly smog tech anymore.
Once here he will have to have it inspected by DMV and a test only station nothing gets past them.
His cam/superram are good for now...his Cats will have to have the Ca EO# stamped on them too. Same as other cats but that stamp makes them $$. They are that strict!
Their machines dont know CI though....x2 on good #s without making the port big is where its at on a street car. The "hogging out" concept is 80s thinking.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
This isn't what you asked, but I'm going to suggest that you strongly consider contacting Greg Good in the Houston area. He's the one who did my heads a billion years ago. He is a absolute wizard at getting crazy flow numbers out of the smallest ports possible: he worships at the alter of high port velocity. If you look at the low-lift flow numbers I posted earlier, you can see that. And that also happens also work well for a true street motor that has to pass emissions. I know Lloyd Elliot is the go-to guru on this forum, but I'm just saying look at the numbers. It's night-and-day. I have absolutely no idea if Greg would be able or willing to work on SBC heads these days: he's heavily into LS and new-LT stuff, but I've also seen Viper heads and other things on his FB page. Also, it may literally be more cost-effective these days to just buy AFR 195 Comps, which flow similar to what my ported stock heads did. I really don't know.

PS - Yeah, you really need to figure out what's going on with that #1 cylinder! Something's wrong there.
Thanks! I'll look into that. I wouldn't be surprised if it would cost just about as much as a new set of heads once shipping's figured in, though.

Originally Posted by sstonebreaker
Well, have fun with them, certainly. But I don't think you really need them. They were invented back when vacuum ran all the accessories on the car - windshield wipers, A/C, etc. and guys would put giant cams in their cars and then the windshield wipers wouldn't work, so the Rhodes lifters were a band-aid for that. But who knows, you may pick the right cam. Personally, once you get your engine purring, I'd look more at some of the cams the other guys on this thread have been suggesting. They're a lot better suited to that intake.

Having said that, you DO have a manual car. Driveability with a 230/236 cam will not be a problem. (Fuel mileage, on the other hand...) If you want a high revving engine, you'd be better off blueprinting the engine - matching all the components to each other instead of using band-aids to make a high revving cam work with a torquer manifold.

Example: I bought a C5 that the guy had slapped a ginormous cam into an otherwise stock engine (234/246 on a 112 lsa). Just by having the heads ported and bumping compression form 10.5 to 11.5, I saw a gain of 30 peak hp and a 100 ft/lb gain in torque at 3500 rpm. Don't discount matching the compression to your cam.
Mike Jones seems to like the new V-Max Rhoads lifters, but he says the old ones were bad for top end power. Wonder if those are what you're used to?

I was just really hoping to save some cash by using the cam I have on hand. You're probably right though. I'll probably end up looking for something in the 220/230 range with maybe a 110 lsa. Definitely not looking for a high-revver!

That's a crazy gain. Is it possible that was mostly from the porting?

Originally Posted by sstonebreaker
In CARB-land, anything that's legal on a newer car, is legal on an older car, even if it's not original equipment. At least it used to be. I used to have a book written by a guy who made a living swapping V8's into cars with 4's and 6's. He was able to do that because he was putting bone stock V8's into S-10 pickups. I don't know what they've changed in the last few years, but since dual cats are legal on a C7 ZR1, you should be able to swap them onto your car.
You can do a full engine swap from a newer car, but you can't just pick and choose individual components. So I could swap in a LT5 (!), but I can't just take the cats.

Originally Posted by bjankuski
I did not read all the responses but i suspect the 3 inch single cat is a problem, remove it and see how it works as a test.
Thanks, I'll give that a shot!

Originally Posted by cv67
If hes coming back to Ca theres no such thing as a friendly smog tech anymore.
Once here he will have to have it inspected by DMV and a test only station nothing gets past them.
His cam/superram are good for now...his Cats will have to have the Ca EO# stamped on them too. Same as other cats but that stamp makes them $$. They are that strict!
Their machines dont know CI though....x2 on good #s without making the port big is where its at on a street car. The "hogging out" concept is 80s thinking.
Yeah, the sunny good old days are over... they were over before I really got started. In the first month of owning this car, I failed smog for not having the pre-cats (guess the PO cut them off) despite being well under emissions limits. Cmon.

Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Aug 14, 2020 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 07:31 PM
  #43  
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The 88 I just bought is stone stock and barely passed by a hair. They are tightening the limits up so bad they almost have to be better than new it seems. Ca wants all the 70s-90s cars gone...even a 50 yr old car gets the registration increased rather than going down like it used to
10 yrs ago my Elcos tags were around 50...now 197
Its the land of good weather and lots of fine women though.

Never used the Rhoads roller lifters but loved their old flat tappet lifters they tamed a big cam down once the oil got hot and did their job upstairs, going from std to them was noticeable.

Last edited by cv67; Aug 14, 2020 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 08:38 PM
  #44  
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Is there a scale at the track? How much does this car weigh? How much do you weigh? Do you have two 12" inch subs, giant amp, full tank of gas... etc?
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 08:41 PM
  #45  
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No, the top end gain was from the porting, but the midrange torque was all from the compression bump. Whatever cam you do end up with, run whatever compression the manufacturer recommends. It makes a YUGE difference, especially down low.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:04 PM
  #46  
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If you're not a.member of the local corvette club I would join it. Corvette clubs normally are sponsored by dealet. It possible you may meet someone more knowledgeable and get access to a few diagnostic tools to test injectors, sun scope, leak down and compression testers.

Leakdown, compression, power balance, running compression should indicate the soundness.of engine.
Wallace Racing has calculators you can plug in all your drag strip data for calculated hp.
Unless a tuner shop is having dyno day.you want to sort out the cool cylinder first. No need to dyno with a known problem.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:31 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by cv67
The 88 I just bought is stone stock and barely passed by a hair. They are tightening the limits up so bad they almost have to be better than new it seems. Ca wants all the 70s-90s cars gone...even a 50 yr old car gets the registration increased rather than going down like it used to
10 yrs ago my Elcos tags were around 50...now 197
Its the land of good weather and lots of fine women though.

Never used the Rhoads roller lifters but loved their old flat tappet lifters they tamed a big cam down once the oil got hot and did their job upstairs, going from std to them was noticeable.
Yeah, kinda crazy that the smog exemption (pre-'75 I think) is fixed rather than based on the age of the car. A 30yo car should definitely not need to be smogged, or it should at least get a pass on the visual.

Thanks for the feedback on the Rhoads.

Originally Posted by Krusty84
Is there a scale at the track? How much does this car weigh? How much do you weigh? Do you have two 12" inch subs, giant amp, full tank of gas... etc?
No scale, sadly. NCM puts it at 3257 lbs, and I haven't added anything to add substantial weight. I'm 150 and it was just about out of gas, so figure 3257 + 150 + 2*60 = 3520lb total.

Originally Posted by sstonebreaker
No, the top end gain was from the porting, but the midrange torque was all from the compression bump. Whatever cam you do end up with, run whatever compression the manufacturer recommends. It makes a YUGE difference, especially down low.
Good to know, thanks!

Originally Posted by Kevova
If you're not a.member of the local corvette club I would join it. Corvette clubs normally are sponsored by dealet. It possible you may meet someone more knowledgeable and get access to a few diagnostic tools to test injectors, sun scope, leak down and compression testers.

Leakdown, compression, power balance, running compression should indicate the soundness.of engine.
Wallace Racing has calculators you can plug in all your drag strip data for calculated hp.
Unless a tuner shop is having dyno day.you want to sort out the cool cylinder first. No need to dyno with a known problem.
I'll do that, thanks. And I use their calculators all the time - good stuff.
I've got a buddy with a leakdown tester that I plan to borrow as soon as he gets back in town. Forged pistons + headers is just such an annoying combo because it needs to be hot to leakdown/compression test, but there's no way of getting to the plugs without bumping up against the headers.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:56 PM
  #48  
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It's the headers not the forged.bottom end that makes tests difficult. A compression tester adapter helps. It's about the size spark plug.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:06 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Kevova
It's the headers not the forged.bottom end that makes tests difficult. A compression tester adapter helps. It's about the size spark plug.
Well, it's both, right? You can get away with doing a leakdown on a hyper piston cold, but forged pistons have such a higher thermal expansion that they need to be hot.
I *think* my buddy's got one of those. It's the getting the spark plug out and that in with a burning hot header 2" away that's difficult.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sstonebreaker
How were your 60ft times this last time?
Originally Posted by Kevova
60 ft or holeshot is about how well you can drive a manual from a stop. The cars making power you need to concentrate on 60. Work on your launch technique a get a friend to video from outside the car to analyze what suspension is doing. New soft compound tires. 84 (either) rear spring, heim jointed rear control arms. Adjustable shocks, More gear 3.73-4.10, line lock (so you won't need to deal with brake pedal). All are things to consider.


The 104-106 mph tells me that he's got ~300 NET chp. Maybe a tad more but not much.

I wonder if his cam timing is off?
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:13 PM
  #51  
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I also agree w/bjankuski that you should unbolt the exhaust and try again. Cheap. Easy. Conclusive. Fairly likely.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:15 PM
  #52  
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I just did a test drive so I could re-measure primary temps hot. Didn't mess around with the wires or do any diagnosis because... I didn't feel like it. Maybe tomorrow.

I measured twice. The first time was pretty soon after a pull (~3min), and the second was a bit longer (~5-10min).
200 (1) (2) 260
340 (3) (4) 290
300 (5) (6) 300
270 (7) (8) 240

160 (1) (2) 250
280 (3) (4) 220
280 (5) (6) 240
260 (7) (8) 240

And my original, idle results:
160°C (1) (2) 280°C
285°C (3) (4) 240°C
250°C (5) (6) 290°C
245°C (7) (8) 230°C

I'm not 100% convinced there's an issue. The sooner I take the measurement after a pull, the less the differential between #1 and #2. It could just be that the alt fan is blowing enough air to cool the #1 primary down. I'll still swap the plug wire with a different cylinder to see what happens, but I'm not sure how much farther than that I want to go. Since the odd bank seems to be running richer than the even bank, the only malfunction that would make sense is a stuck open injector. The last time I had the intake off was to check for exactly that, and none of the injectors leaked fuel when I primed the pump. I suppose it could just flow a ton more than my other injectors, but I'd like to think Accel/Holley has better QC standards than that.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI


The 104-106 mph tells me that he's got ~300 NET chp. Maybe a tad more but not much.

I wonder if his cam timing is off?
Thanks for jumping in. I didn't degree my cam when I installed it, but I'm certain I lined up the pointers on the crank/cam sprockets.

Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I also agree w/bjankuski that you should unbolt the exhaust and try again. Cheap. Easy. Conclusive. Fairly likely.
"Fairly likely..." to get me a ticket probably should go get my inspection sticker before I try that. Any suggestions on supporting the front Y-pipe with everything else disconnected? IIRC there's no hanger there. I suppose I could run open headers but that would mess up my O2 sensor readings (and be extra loud).

Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Aug 14, 2020 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:37 PM
  #54  
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[QUOTE=C4ProjectCar;1602013500]Well, it's both, right? You can get away with doing a leakdown on a hyper piston cold, but forged pistons have such a higher thermal expansion

Engine should be warm regardless of piston type, prior to compression and Leakdown. Running compression is an indication of cylinder filling or valvetrain operation. How much air is getting in cylinder.
With forged pistons for the most part that has changed. There are lightweight racing piston that are loose in the hole until engine warms up. However modern forged pistons are designed for tighter clearances, providing quieter operation with less wear.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:40 PM
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Make a test pipe and eliminate the cat, cheap and easy.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
Engine should be warm regardless of piston type, prior to compression and Leakdown. Running compression is an indication of cylinder filling or valvetrain operation. How much air is getting in cylinder.
With forged pistons for the most part that has changed. There are lightweight racing piston that are loose in the hole until engine warms up. However modern forged pistons are designed for tighter clearances, providing quieter operation with less wear.
Interesting - hope that's not the case for my pistons, because I recall seeing a pretty lousy number when we threw the leakdown tester on it dead cold a while ago.

Originally Posted by bjankuski
Make a test pipe and eliminate the cat, cheap and easy.
Gotcha, wasn't sure if the cat was in question or just running through a single 3" pipe period. Unfortunately, my cat is welded to the rear Y-pipe.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
Unfortunately, my cat is welded to the rear Y-pipe.
In that case, just unbolt the cat from the front Y.
Or, remove the front Y entirely for the test and put some cheapy turn downs on each header.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 12:09 AM
  #58  
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if you had been a bit faster on your RT, you may have beat him. Don't feel to bad, my 86 is wore out also and it turns righr at 14, Think my fastest was 14.03, You spinning to much at take off? Oh, mine is pretty much stock , Looking for a new set of AFRs 195

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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 02:53 AM
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What if he drilled/tapped a hole before the cat and took a pressure reading? That could tell him something Id hope
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cv67
What if he drilled/tapped a hole before the cat and took a pressure reading? That could tell him something Id hope
very good idea, anything more then 5 PSI is a big restriction and this needs to be checked at WOT, not idle. Tap a 1/4-28 pipe plug and add an 1/8 coppe line 2 feet long and attach a pressure gauge to it and run it in through the window so you can see what is going on.
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