Thinking out loud here but wondering if forced induction is worth it on a stock L98.... I'm talking bone stock engine, with exhaust mods already done.

 

Heck yes, better than heads cam etc. Seems more up front but the torque is everywhere all the time right now.
If youve ever driven a healthy big block thats what it will feel like. Best part is noone expects a C4 to be fast.

no need for big converters, regearing etc.

 

Short answer is yes

Plenty of articles done back when our cars were newer

 

what year vette and what brand blower are you thinking?

 

I have an L98, stock heads/cam/intake... headers, no cat, borla cat-back with a Vortech kit. The old School kit.

To answer if it is worth it, what do you want in the end?

I can assure you, you will need to factor in a tuning solution if you want the most out of it.

 

I disagree... a L98 needs a 3.4X-3.5X gear to be what it is supposed to be.


Gearing also provides just this. Plus adds no further complications to operation. However there is no free lunch and you make trades offs in MPG and Speed.


I have both a blower and a 3.45 gear in mine.

License Plate Frame.... "Got Torque?"

 

Yes. It's worth it to put boost on a stock L98. They respond well to boost. It will basically just add to the power it already makes without affecting the bottom end power. May increase the RPM of the power peak slightly.
My 85 was stock when it put the turbocharger on it. (It now has AFR heads and a bigger camshaft though.) I already had aftermarket EFI though.

Keep in mind a few things though:
The engine needs to be in good mechanical condition to survive.
It's certainly not cheap.
You will need to upgrade the fuel system and get it tuned.

 

It will not, it takes the same curve the engine produces and shifts it up the Y axis. I was surprised to learn this, but it does not change curve.


This is true before starting any modding. If it doesn't run well already, bolting shiney things to it won't change that.
Relatively speaking, they can be. Depends on what you are buying, but a basic hot air 6PSI kit can be had less than $3K. When you look at the finish cost of some other modifications, it's not so bad when measure HP/$. Install is a bit involved. If you are having a shop do it, that will add significant cost.
Need is the wrong word. Kits for the L98 were usually supplied with a booster pump, and a boost referenced spark retard box. It worked OK as fuel pressure would step up with boost and timing was reduced under boost. Cars ran like this for decades. Mine being one that was "untuned" for a few years. However, once I installed my EBL and started doing my own tuning, it is a lot better now. I would classify this under you "Want to" have it tuned, but it's not a need to get your car driving in an enjoyable condition, but you will be able to tell a difference.

 

I should have been more specific. What I meant was that it won't affect the low RPM driveability like some other modifications can. (What can I say, it was 5:30 in the morning. My coffee was still kicking in. &#128513 Mine pulls hard once the boost comes on but is nice and tame putting around at low RPMs.

If you can get past the initial sticker shock of a blower kit, you get a very good power to dollar return.

 

Hi
As long as you get a KIT with all the PARTS to make it work properly, it is the best most reliable performance increase everywhere from idle up.
There are plenty of cheap used kits available from those that have gone to bigger blowers for more boost.
Just putting a blower on won't work, you need to manage fuel and ignition retard / advance with / without boost to make reliable h/p.

Talk to blower works they will be able to modify your ecm chip, to work with whatever boost level you want.
I would recommend 6 to 9 psi no more on a standard engine, otherwise you will need lower compression and forged pistons / rods.
I ran a blower on my original engine for around 8 years before building a new engine for more.