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I did a search and looked up a few videos, but nothing really hit well with "jacking points"--so here go the newbie questions...
When I look at the marked jacking points, I see the pitch weld, but I also see the fiberglass rocker panel right on top of that pinchweld--seems like a recipe for cracking my rocker panel? I am I right in assuming a piece of steel or aluminum bar stock, allowing me to focus the lifting torque on the pinchweld, is the way to go, or am I mission something.
Also, who put these damn lines here--any advice to avoid these other than "use a really think piece of bar stock"...?
And secondly, when the car is up on the jack points, where is it safe to put the jack stands?
Can I move them inboard on either of these two panels (off the pinch)-- or should I stay on the pinch. My experience is those welds start to bend under prolonged load. This is all front, by the way, jackstand points on the rear seem a bit more obvious (at least to me).
Found these today. Not that I think anyone needs them...but it solves both problems that you're concerned about. And a lot cheaper than the Quick jack.
Found these today. Not that I think anyone needs them...but it solves both problems that you're concerned about. And a lot cheaper than the Quick jack.
That actually looks like like a very interesting stand. Do you think that the feet would have a wide enough footprint to use one both sides at same time without a tipping concern?
I thought the same thing...but the feet extend out further than my 12 ton jack stand's feet do, so, I'd say that yes, I think they have a wide enough foot print.
My beef w/them would be
1. Price; they appear to be $125 per single stand.
2. They somewhat restrict access under the car, on a creeper, compared to typical stands.
Found these today. Not that I think anyone needs them...but it solves both problems that you're concerned about. And a lot cheaper than the Quick jack.
I thought the same thing...but the feet extend out further than my 12 ton jack stand's feet do, so, I'd say that yes, I think they have a wide enough foot print.
My beef w/them would be
1. Price; they appear to be $125 per single stand.
2. They somewhat restrict access under the car, on a creeper, compared to typical stands.
I like them and I may get a set for other purposes.
The cost savings isn't great when they are, with shipping, about 60% of what I paid for my QJ. You still have to get (have) a jack, these stands, and fiddle around with parts. The QJ is slip under, put pads on, and hit a button. Then Both sides come up at the same time. OK, this is after you have lifted a certain car before and know where you are putting them and the pads. Lift is about the same. I would like these better for a long term project than the QJ if the car was going to be up in the air for an extended period of time.
Do keep in mind, I have put wall hangers in my garage to get mine out of the way and installed the pump on a shelf where the hoses can be brought out and connected in either bay of my garage. So, I am not fooling with the pump and hoses every time and I can basically wheel my QJ frames where I need them with hardly any lifting.
I wonder in practical use. Can you lift one side to full setting then do the other on the C4? Will bringing one side up to a minimum of 11.5" still allow jacking of the other side?<----- Honest question, I have never put a C4 up on 4 stands. Just wonder what that side tilt will do? Or will this end up in a jack one side, then jack the other, back to the first side to full height, then back to the second to get to full height?
I wonder in practical use. Can you lift one side to full setting then do the other on the C4? Will bringing one side up to a minimum of 11.5" still allow jacking of the other side?<----- Honest question, I have never put a C4 up on 4 stands. Just wonder what that side tilt will do? Or will this end up in a jack one side, then jack the other, back to the first side to full height, then back to the second to get to full height?
I lift my car from the side, and go as high as my jack will go....the go do the other side. It's more than 11.5", that's for sure. I'd say more like 20"?
Pinch welds are your friend. Get yourself a hockey puck and put it on your jack- it will do less (cosmetic damage) as you raise the car. Dont sweat this one too much; as long as you are on the welds you are good. Now, be careful of the plastic panel and the brake/gas lines.
Found these today. Not that I think anyone needs them...but it solves both problems that you're concerned about. And a lot cheaper than the Quick jack.
Found these today. Not that I think anyone needs them...but it solves both problems that you're concerned about. And a lot cheaper than the Quick jack.
only $236 each shipped. I would need four. Thats only $1000. My bad, they are $179 shipped per each. so $720 for four. Maybe for $500 I would consider it. If you think of all the money you save doing the work yourself. They pay for themselves. (selling myself)
Found these today. Not that I think anyone needs them...but it solves both problems that you're concerned about. And a lot cheaper than the Quick jack.
Tom, Am i being a little **** when I say that I am nervous, when i look at all those welds that make up this this jack ,that can potentially fail when you are under the car
Tom, Am i being a little **** when I say that I am nervous, when i look at all those welds that make up this this jack ,that can potentially fail when you are under the car
i think he said the pins were rated at 9000 lbs shear. Never can be too careful. Hopefully they tested the welds as much as the pins otherwise its pointless if the pins test at 9 million pounds. I like that they use the jacking point as the stand point also.
Tom, Am i being a little **** when I say that I am nervous, when i look at all those welds that make up this this jack ,that can potentially fail when you are under the car
as long as they are US made I am fine with they welds, they have been around for a while have not heard of any failures
I don't, fail to see the point. I guess one argument against is it will increase how high the puck sits versus the pinch weld and may increase chance of impacting fuel or brake lines. Tiny increase.
