C4 Back-up Light Switch Location
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: lovetsville va
C4 Back-up Light Switch Location
My 1994 Lt1 has no back-up lights, fuse and bulbs good, unable to locate the back-up switch on the manual transmission. Would anyone direct me to the location so I can check it out. My Clymers has nothing on it. Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,760
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From: Lost in the mountains of TN
Re: C4 Back-up Light Switch Location (rudderbud2000)
Welcome to the Forum.
Now for the bad news. The switch you seek is very hard to get to. It is on the drivers side of the transmission way up top. I will see if I can track down a picture.
Now for the bad news. The switch you seek is very hard to get to. It is on the drivers side of the transmission way up top. I will see if I can track down a picture.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: lovetsville va
Re: C4 Back-up Light Switch Location (rudderbud2000)
Looks like it's on the drivers side nearer to the top - so it's not actually on the TOP of the tranny? That would make it a little easier - maybe, time to get another eyeball on it.......Thanks so much!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 0
From: Lost in the mountains of TN
Re: C4 Back-up Light Switch Location (rudderbud2000)
No problem. :cheers:
It's on the side if the transmission, close to the top. Once you crawl under there you will see how much of a pain it will be. There is not a lot of room in there.
It's on the side if the transmission, close to the top. Once you crawl under there you will see how much of a pain it will be. There is not a lot of room in there.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
From: Brockville Ontario Canada
I got. 1986 corvette and the reverse lights come on when putting it into R gear but as soon as it locks into reverse the lights go off? Would it be the reverse sensor in the transmission or could it just be in the shifter? Any ideas
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Cruising
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
It is difficult to get to. I just replaced mine. I removed the O2 sensor on that side to get a little more room to operate. You will need an O2 sensor tool to remove. OReilly will rent you a kit with 3 different sockets and the one you need will be included. The clutch slave cylinder is there as well but I did not remove. I wasn't sure how difficult it would be to reinstall the slave cylinder as the rod in the slave cylinder will most probably extend out and then it would have to be pushed in to reinstall. Maybe someone else can comment on in terms of how difficult this would be. You will need to get the car off the ground a fair bit so that you have room to move around Also a 7/8" or 22mm offset wrench will be needed in order to remove and install the switch. When you install the switch you will have to do it by feel as you can't see what you are doing.
I have a 1996 LT4 with the 6 speed manual.
I have a 1996 LT4 with the 6 speed manual.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 6
My reverse lights weren't working, either. I purchased a deep socket, can't remember what size off the top of my head (22mm?), and cut it down to slide up between the tunnel and over the plug on the reverse switch. Once I got it to the right length, I slotted it with a dremel and cutting wheel for a large screwdriver. I then slid the socket over the plug and on to the hex of the switch, and then stuck the screwdriver into the slots to remove it. The switch wasn't in super tight, so I was pretty fortunate.
Once removed, you'll see how the switch operates. There's a ball bearing on the end that moves in and out to complete the circuit. Testing with a multimeter, contact was inconsistent. Some combination of depressing the bearing and spraying contact cleaner in it, as well as beating the ball bearing end on a table, got it working consistently. I reinstalled it and haven't had an issue since. I think I may have crammed some dielectric grease past the ball bearing, too, just to try and keep crap out of the mechanism in the future.
I was only out the cost of the socket and a couple hours of time.
Once removed, you'll see how the switch operates. There's a ball bearing on the end that moves in and out to complete the circuit. Testing with a multimeter, contact was inconsistent. Some combination of depressing the bearing and spraying contact cleaner in it, as well as beating the ball bearing end on a table, got it working consistently. I reinstalled it and haven't had an issue since. I think I may have crammed some dielectric grease past the ball bearing, too, just to try and keep crap out of the mechanism in the future.
I was only out the cost of the socket and a couple hours of time.
