Narrowed it down to two grinds, based on wanting 'hotcam' type driving characteristics.

-Lunati voodoo 20080721, 219/227 duration, 112 LSA, .515/.530 lift-LPE 74211, 211/219, 112 LSA, .530/.560 lift
Engine is a mild 350 LT4, LPE cnc heads, ported intake, 52mm throttle body, Hooker LT headers. T56 swapped car, 3.90 gears.

Just looking for a 'tie breaker'. I have other cars, bigger cams...not my first rodeo. I'm looking to drive this one. Mileage, mid range torque, and manners come first but I still want something with some *****. Curious where others HP numbers have ended up.

I know the LPE is a smaller cam, I'm considering it because it seems to have some decent potential even though it's older. Haven't tried one yet.

 

You already have the LPE heads so why not the cam too. The lift will better use the heads potential imo... either will be a fun street cam and should pull pretty much anywhere.

 

Big cam

 

I did a Lloyd Elliott cam last year on my LT4.
Here was his description of my cam; A 219/227 .541/.565 112 LSA camshaft will have a pretty mild idle and have good drivability at low RPM while keeping you pinned in the seat past 6200 RPM while being able to pass an emissions "sniff test" (if needed). Low RPM drivability is good compared to most aftermarket camshafts and with good tuning, it should be able to be lugged about 1550 RPM with out bucking/surging.
Lloyd described it pretty much exactly how it operates.
I ran it without any major tuning (I have a JET DST and used it for small adjustments) but then figured I would try a tune from PCM for Less. The mail order tune made the car even more responsive. I am happy with the setup. I did all the work myself. Just a heads up, none of these cams is a straight up cam swap and drive it. You will need to check for coil bind, pushrod length, etc.
The keepers in the Lunati kit didn't work for me and neither did the spring retainers. Coil bind was going to be a big problem if I ran just the kit.
I had to purchase thinner retainers, different keepers that would move the retainer higher up the valve stem. And don't forget all the other parts you will need; studs, rocker arms (you can't stay with the factory non adjustable valve train), pushrods, timing chain gaskets, trimming the valve covers so they will clear the new rocker arms and other things I forgot about. But if you do it right it is expensive but rewarding!

 

Mine with the LE kit is finishing installation now. It is 219/223, but the point is he can expertly recommend the specs to fit your objectives. His price for the cam and proper components (rockers, springs, pushrods, etc) will be better than you buying directly from Lunati, who ships direct to you. He is a professional with a well known track record.

 

I failed to mention how helpful Lloyd Elliott is when you have questions. He answered several questions I had when things didn't align properly and he offered solutions to correct the problem.
He is an expert!!!

 

Just curious, why not the hot cam?

 

Been there, done that. Hot cam has been around for awhile and lately has gotten more expensive. The LPE I haven't used and the voodoo is a newer cam which is why I considered both.

 

When I called Lunati and asked if their cam would make more power than Lloyd Elliott's custom grind, Lunati told me Lloyd Elliott's cam would probably make more power.
I don't know maybe things have changed in a year and Lunati has a better cam now.
I would give Lunati a call and ask them their opinion.
Either way Lunati is going to supply the cam because Lloyd Elliott uses them for his custom grind.
Lloyd Elliott also recommended Lunati springs, roller rockers, retainers, lifters, etc.
So I think they have a close working relationship.

 

A good tune does wonders. I agree. I run basically a cc503 and I can lug around at 1100 or so in 4th with no issues... if I really want to I can bring it down to idle speed and go. It doesn't like it but it doesn't like buck or anything. Tune is a big part of how it drives more than the cam selection. Bad tune on a stockish cam will drive just as bad. As a really big cam. Select it for the build.

 

I've already done the cc503. It's a good cam for what it is, I'll give it that. Damn good off the shelf cam. Just looking for more on the bottom end. Good HP numbers are nice, but on this one, drivability and mileage is just as if not more important so I'm willing to dial it back a little.

I've dealt with LE several times in the past. I'm certainly not opposed to getting his input as well, I've got one of his setups on my 383 LT4.

 

I was just saying it as you can get good drivability out of anything it just depends how much you work on the tune. I have a full year of adjusting on mine and I still know it can be better. But yea. All the comp 224/230 cams based on the older XE lobes do really well. Not so peaky but broad. Mine is using the marine lobes... its an oddball. Desktop dyno actually showed it having the best average power compared to the cc503 and its other variations.

But as I said, both of those cams will be similar. The LE ones will just be better matched for the heads as that's what he had in mind when porting them and designing the cam. Honestly I don't think there is any real new style cam for a sbc. Most of the grinds (even voodoo) are still pretty old. Only so many ways to skin a cat you know?