car won't start, found water in system, drained water, fresh gas, still won't start, replaced dist. cap, rotor, modulator, condenser, plugs, fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, checked timing, turned key on security light goes out, still won't start, cranks over, fires, whats to start, checked gas on rail, checked power on injectors light blinks, need help

 

Did you check the fuel pressure? You can rent a fuel pressure gauge from the auto stores if you don’t have 1. Do you have a Factory Service Manual , if not you can sometimes find 1 on this forum or Ebay. Rock Auto has some on CDs. Do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when you turn the key on? The fuel pressure should hold steady after priming. If not you probably have a fuel pump, fuel pump regulator, or leaking injectors problem.

 

Did you flush the (possible) water from the rest of the fuel system?
What is fuel pressure just after key On and while cranking??

Spray a little starter fluid into the intake behind the MAF, install the MAF and try to start.

You might pull a few spark plugs to check status, i.e. dry, flooded, worn out, etc.; check compression at the same time.

 

Water in the tank is pretty hard to deal with, even a little bit will cause the ethanol to separate out of the fuel and collect on the bottom of the tank, once it gets in there it messes with your air-fuel mixture for a tank or two after you've drained it unless you can get every single drop out of the system. What I ended up doing was jumping the fuel pump relay and draining the tank from the return hose, once I heard and saw it starting to suck air (Clear bottles makes this way easier), I put the hose back on, added a bottle of HEET and added a gallon of gas and let the pump run for a few minutes. Drain half a gallon, add back half a gallon, rinse and repeat until you get crystal clear gas out of the return, it gets expensive real quick so if you're careful with it, you can wait for the gas you've already pulled out to separate and suck the gas off the top while leaving the ethanol/water mixture on the bottom(looks like lemonade). Whatever you do, do not run gas that has been exposed to water in any engines whatsoever, without the ethanol, the octane rating is drastically decreased and even a lawnmower will ping and detonate from that level of deterioration, the only thing its good for at this point is starting bonfires and cleaning parts.

Have you tried disconnecting the MAF and starting it? I had very similar symptoms on my 85 that had me pulling my hair out. Disconnecting the MAF will cause the ECM to resort to running the engine off the CALPAK which puts your car into everlasting open-loop and limp mode.

 

checked system today, did a fuel pump pressure check,75lb at cranking, checked spark on plugs while cranking, found losing spark, direct feed from battery to cap same thing, have hem high voltage system same results losing spark.....also replaced vat bypass.any ideas

 

75PSI is way to high for an L98, perhaps your regulator is stuck closed. How are you seeing that you're losing spark?

 

installed new diaphragm in regulator, and I'm checking spark with timing light as i crank engine, and what should psi be if to high, today i pulled distributor and ordered new one thinking magnetic disc is bad, if that don't fix problem then it has to be the vac system

 

Got new distributor, installed, car started, but i did not label injector plugs, so now I have to try and figure out were they go in what order, car runs but won't ideal and has a miss,can any one help.

 

Order doesn't matter for the L98, all injectors fire together. Verify that you have spark getting to all plugs, and check your timing. Will it idle if you disconnect the MAF?

 

45 psi is good fuel pressure - with the vacuum line disconnected from the regulator....

 

well went and talked to a buddy, he looked up fuel pressure and he agreed that 75 is too high, should be between 40-46 psi, how can i lower pressure, any ideas, is it possible to reverse fuel lines going into the rail, guys thanks for the comments.

 

i never discounted MAF, but car does idle, slow but does idle, fuel pressure why to high

 

Not really possible to reverse lines into the fuel rail; they are a different diameter. I mean you could try, but I don't know what the results would be - most likely a big leak at the fittings I suppose.

I hate to say it, but 75 psi sounds like either a faulty diaphragm/spring in the regulator, plugged regulator outlet (like was mentioned prior "ThatOneKid"), or debris clogging the return line so that no matter how the regulator tries to release pressure it's still restricted in the tank return somehow. I don't see how it would be physically possible otherwise...