Pulling 94 LT1 Engine
It's a convertible, do I have to pull the cross brace?
I found this in another post.
, but it references the Hanes Manual. Any suggestions to make it easier will be greatly appreciated,
1 Disconnect tile battery cables from the battery, then refer to Chapter 4 and detach the throttle and cruise control cables from the engine (see illustration).
2 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the distributor.
3 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the wiper motor.
4 Remove the air intake duct and MAF sensor (if equipped).
5 Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and the PCV line-to-canister hose.
6 label and disconnect the vacuum hoses and wires attached to the engine.
7 Disconnect the fuel injector wires and detach the harness from the engine.
8 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system, then detach the radiator hoses and heater hoses from the engine fittings. Also, remove the drivebelt from the pulleys.
9 Refer to Chapter 4 and relieve the fuel pressure, then detach the fuel lines at the fuel rail fittings.
10 Disconnect the AIR switching valve at the air conditioning compressor.
11 Remove the catalytic converter AIR pipe.
12 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the air conditioning compressor. Detach the accumulator at the fan shroud and brace.
13 Disconnect the fuel lines at the engine block fittings.
14 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the a1temator.
15 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump. Detach the power steering reservoir at the fan shroud and brace.
16 Remove the water pump pulley (If equipped), then refer to Chapter 2A and remove the vibration damper from the end of the crankshaft.
17 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then disconnect the wires from the oxygen sensor, the ESC sensor and the coolant temperature sensor (See illustration).
18 Detach the temperature sensor and ground wires from the engine block.
19 Detach the catalytic converter AIR pipe from the right-hand exhaust manifold (if equipped)
20 Detach the transmission oil cooler lines from the flywheel cover bracket.
21 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the starter motor.
22 Refer to Chapter 1, drain the engine oil and remove the 0il filter.
23 Detach the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds and the converter hanger (refer to ChaPter 4).
24 Detach the oil cooler adapter from the block and the line from the oil pan.
25 Remove the flywheel/driveplate cover.
26 If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. The converter will have to be turned to expose the upper bolts.
27 Support the engine with a hoist, then remove the bellhousing bolts.
28 Remove the engine mount through bolts.
29 Remove the engine mount-to-block bolts.
30 Position a jack under the transmission and raise it just enough to support it. A block of wood should be used to prevent the jack head from bearing against the transmission case or oil pan.
31 Move the engine forward to detach it from the transmission, then make one last check to be sure all wires, cables and hoses have been disconnected before carefully lifting it out of the engine compartment (see illustration).
32 Installation can be accomplished by reversing the removal procedure.
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Last edited by johntorg; Feb 15, 2021 at 03:45 PM.
I would highly suggest bolting the intake back on and getting a Happy Hooker from TPIS. It's $75 but worth every penny. You can yank the engine right out with no balancing problems that can sometimes come from chains bolted to the heads.
Last edited by djpink889; Feb 19, 2021 at 01:32 PM.







