LT1 383 Stroker engine specs
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Joined: May 2019
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LT1 383 Stroker engine specs
In the process of building my 383 stroker and I’ve got some questions about engine specs. I pretty much know all my torque specs for bolts and stuff but mostly needing clearance specs. Should I be using stock LT1 specs for stuff like bearing clearances and thrust specs and stuff like that or is there a thread someone can direct me to that may have already gone over this? Unfortunately I can’t find much. Mostly in need of bearing clearance numbers as well as what I should be clearancing from between my rods and block. I’ve done first assembly on the engine just to see how close my rods are to the block and I have 0 actual interference but they are a little closer than I’d want. I have not actually measured the exact clearance between them but I will once I get some more time to work on the engine more and try to post an update on it. Also what is the best way to install the crank gear for the timing set? Is it best to heat it up or what? Mine won’t slide far back enough and I also need to get a new key because I cannot find the one I had for it now. Thanks in advance for the help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 1,490
From: New Jersey
Specs are specs. The factory manual is what I would go by unless the components you are using say otherwise. For example ring gap. Anything I've done I've gone with factory spec (granted it was all gen 1) but it didn't let loose. It was on the tight side however.
I'm not super familiar with the crank setup on the LTs but any 350 I've just heated and used a dead blow hammer on a pvc or copper pipe. Worked fine. You don't want to hammer the thrust bearing. (Not ideal I know but it's what I had)
I'm not super familiar with the crank setup on the LTs but any 350 I've just heated and used a dead blow hammer on a pvc or copper pipe. Worked fine. You don't want to hammer the thrust bearing. (Not ideal I know but it's what I had)
Last edited by 84 4+3; Feb 15, 2021 at 07:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
Specs are specs. The factory manual is what I would go by unless the components you are using say otherwise. For example ring gap. Anything I've done I've gone with factory spec (granted it was all gen 1) but it didn't let loose. It was on the tight side however.
I'm not super familiar with the crank setup on the LTs but any 350 I've just heated and used a dead blow hammer on a pvc or copper pipe. Worked fine. You don't want to hammer the thrust bearing. (Not ideal I know but it's what I had)
I'm not super familiar with the crank setup on the LTs but any 350 I've just heated and used a dead blow hammer on a pvc or copper pipe. Worked fine. You don't want to hammer the thrust bearing. (Not ideal I know but it's what I had)
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Bearing clearance in high performance engines are pretty universal.
.001 per inch of journal diameter is a good rule to follow.
In the case of your 383 .0021 rod and. 0025 mains would be good target clearances. Thrush clearance or crankshaft end play should be in between .005 and .008.
Will
.001 per inch of journal diameter is a good rule to follow.
In the case of your 383 .0021 rod and. 0025 mains would be good target clearances. Thrush clearance or crankshaft end play should be in between .005 and .008.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; Feb 16, 2021 at 03:55 PM.
