no I did not use that slave I used one I bought on eBay the cast one just had to switch the bleeder to the other port then it lined up correct of course the problem went deeper btw the cast slave was exedy brand and somehow my kid got it on of course now it would be easy with the tranny laying on the ground lol

 

I appreciate the update, mudslide. Hope someone can answer your question in post #19. Best wishes.

 

I am in the process of replacing my master and slave and bought the Power Torque based on the information provided in this thread. After reading other threads about the o-ring being reversed on all the new cylinders available today, I took the new one apart to check to see if it needed to be reversed. I am happy to report that it is correct on these so you don't have to change it. Thanks, Hawkeye for the recommendation.

 

Glad to hear all is going well.
I have been visiting with Grandsport who replaced his at the same time I did.
He did share with me that he had to change clutch fluid a couple of times because it turned black. He visited with ZF Doc and he said that is normal break end. Just a FYI.
I have only put maybe 3 miles on since it was done. I have had a right knee replacement surgery and could not get in the car if I wanted to LOL.
Thanks Hawkeye56

 

I have the Master out and took it apart to look at what it had. See attached picture. The car has 45K on it and I don't believe this is a GM part as I don't think they would have used a ty-wrap to hold on the reservoir.

 

The slave is out. The piston is much bigger in diameter than the new one, but it didn't look like it had been leaking. There was quite a bit of black clutch dust around the piston on the outbound side of the piston. It is easy to see how that gets inside with movement. The original clutch line from master to slave is SS braided line so I am not planning on replacing that even though I have a new one. It looks like it is bent and formed for a better fit than the aftermarket one. What did you guys do?

 

Believe it or not that is actually the original GM master, which does indeed have a zip tie wrap holding the reservoir on. My '89 has the OEM one and it looks the same. Yours has been leaking a lot of fluid to remove all that black paint, probably from the gasket at the bottom of the reservoir by the look of it.

 

Thanks for the reply. I would agree or maybe it is just spillage from refills, I don't know. It looked that way when I bought the car almost 2 years ago. I wasn't having clutch problems, as I kept an eye on the fluid level, but you are most likely correct. I have had to add some fluid over the time I have owned it. Looking at the slave I didn't see any evidence of leakage from the slave piston into the bell housing. That was what I was most worried about. I am just doing preventative maintenance as I don't want to have the clutch/tranny done over$$$$$

 

Hawkeye,
I have all the same parts that you recommended and have the master mounted. I can't seem to get the slave in as the GAGS seems to be in the way. From what you said, the bleeder should be on the bottom so I will try again to get it in that way. Did you have to remove the GAGS solenoid? I have the bypass already installed. Can you take the solenoid out and leave it out with the jumper already in there? How does it come out? Just unscrews? Once the slave is in, do you put it back in place? Sorry for all the questions, but I am stuck trying to get the slave in. TIA

 

I am probably not going to be a lot of help with these questions as my GAG was already unplugged when I purchased the car. When the new slave and master cylinder was installed the blue tag Trans was removed and replaced with a rebuilt black tag that ZF Doc had gone A-Z with. As far as removing the solenoid I would call ZF Doc as he knows more about these tran"s than anyone else I know.

Thanks
Hawkeye56

 

Thanks. I will try and remove the Gags solenoid and see if that gives me enough room to get the slave on. I am sure your '95 is the same as my '96 and there isn't a lot of room with the exhaust/O2 sensor and the CAGS solenoid. I have the Master mounted, new SS supply line installed, and just need to get the slave in. I very carefully bench bled the slave, but that went out the window when I was trying every which way to get the slave in. I am sure everything has lots of air in it now with all the problems.

 

You can unscrew the CAGs unit and ZF doc says to cut the solinoid off and weld a plug on the threaded part to use as a plug, it’s cheaper than buying a delete plug And I think you said you did the wiring part so it won’t throw a code.

 

Thanks for the tip. I don't have welding capabilities, so I bought an M20X1.5, allen head plug which I hope is the right size. I should have the J 39081 Solenoid wrench tomorrow so I can remove the CAGS. With that gone I should be able to put the new slave cylinder in without a problem.

Special tool as referenced above.

 

The tool is exactly what you need if you have to remove the CAGS. You will need a breaker bar to get it loose then it easily unscrews. If you are going to buy a plug, M20X1.5 is the correct size, but it will tighten right into the tranny if it doesn't have a flange on so it can be tightened down like the plug next to it. The slave goes it tomorrow.

 

The slave is in place. I bench-bled the slave, gravity-bled the master, and got it in. My plan was to reverse bleed from the slave bleed screw. That doesn't work as soon as you loosen the bleed screw it is so loose you can't push any pressure/fluid into the slave. Same problem if you vacuum bleed from the bleeder. you suck in so much air from the bleeder screw. I took the bleed screw out and put some Teflon tape around the threads. I tried vacuum bleeding and you still get a lot of air from around the threads it appears. A ton of little bubbles, almost like foam. Tried pressure and it wouldn't maintain pressure so I quit. I ran out of brake fluid as I used the 500ml bottle that I had bought for the job. The bleed screw is smaller in size than the OEM part and wobbles in the port on the slave. So, this no clutch pedal, push it into almost the floor, and then it stops about 1-2in from the floor. I tried the ranger method, 30 pushes, and slip off the pedal but that showed no bubbles in the master, no change in level. It appears like the slave has air in it. Not sure how I am going to get it out at this point. The slave bleeder is the only way to get any out so I will have to figure that out, vacuum or pressure.
Today is another day. I am going to pull the slave out and start over with bench bleeding the slave and try and get it back in without getting any air in it.

 

As a point of reference and maybe it will mean something to someone who has been down this path before me. I went out and pushed on the clutch pedal. It sits 6" from the floor at rest. When pushing down it goes to 3" from the floor and stops. Before, it would go all the way to the floor. There really is no sense that anything has happened while pushing. I don't think it is actually moving the slave, but of course, you can see anything move. No bubbles are showing up in the master. I won't have more fluid until late tomorrow, so I guess I won't do anything today, except remove the slave and get it ready for another round of bench bleeding.

 

Damn that was all the same crap I went through and with three different slaves so I pulled the trans thinking something wrong with the fork but it was the throw out bearing with less than 1000 miles had exploded it was a new one which I found out was made in China such crap. By any chance do you have a bore scope to look inside the bell housing to see if something is messed up on the inside?

 

I was having no problems with the tranny before I decided to do this preventative maintenance. I did have to add a little fluid every 6 months or so. I think the master was leaking. I didn't see any evidence that the slave was leaking.

Yes, I have one and can break it out and take a look. That would be tragic, don't you have to change the whole throwout bearing assembly to a hydraulic one? I am in no position, literally to drop the tranny. My jack stands don't go high enough to do that and I don't have a tranny jack or any way to pull that. The car only has 45K on the odometer and isn't driven hard or tracked.

 

I was lucky enough to find a new old stock TOB with the INA on the seal but yes with out that the conversation is the next step but I did not want to listen to the rattle from deleting the DMF

 

PowerPlayTwo Are you having fluid seep from the bleeder threads? The reason I am asking I have the car up on Jack stands with the front end out of it. Earlier this spring I had a drop on the rubber cap, Today I rolled under and found seepage from the threads, I tried to tighten with a 10mm socket but it was very tight. Spoke to Bill and he said tighten until it almost breaks off if not get a new one from warranty. I have less than 3 miles on it.
For bleeding he said to bench bleed and then pump pedal down about 2-3 inches only as this is the fastest way to get the air out.
Thanks
Hawkeye56