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I was talking to ZF doc about my new slave on my 90 vette and why the shaft was so much shorter than my old one and he said there is a built in stop to help with installing it and while bleeding I would hear a loud bang when the shaft brakes the stop and becomes the full length. Well after an hour of pushing the clutch pedal I don’t get any bang and I’m not getting anymore air bubbles out of the master cylinder. Has anyone heard of this and how to get the slave to snap the stop?? Thanks for any help
Will your clutch disengage now so you can shift it? Example 1st to reverse?
Thanks Hawkeye56
No the clutch is not disengaging at all. The pedal is real easy going down till it gets about an inch from the bottom then gets super hard ? Brand new master and slave. Tried bleeding like a brake system but no better plus bleeder is like 45 degrees pointed down.
No the clutch is not disengaging at all. The pedal is real easy going down till it gets about an inch from the bottom then gets super hard ? Brand new master and slave. Tried bleeding like a brake system but no better plus bleeder is like 45 degrees pointed down.
I would probably swap out the slave for a new warranty replacement, I just had a new master cyl. and slave installed from O riley"s [ Bill" suggestion for outlet] and no problem at this time.
Good Luck
I would probably swap out the slave for a new warranty replacement, I just had a new master cyl. and slave installed from O riley"s [ Bill" suggestion for outlet] and no problem at this time.
Good Luck
Thanks
Hawkeye56
Thanks can I ask what year you have? And did O’riellys sell you the cast slave? I tried every different make of the cast slaves but all of them did not fit and the only way on a 1990 I’m told was to eliminate the CAGS SOLENOID
(the first to fourth thing) but I’m trying to keep this one car in my life completely stock. Thanks , Walter
Thanks can I ask what year you have? And did O’riellys sell you the cast slave? I tried every different make of the cast slaves but all of them did not fit and the only way on a 1990 I’m told was to eliminate the CAGS SOLENOID
(the first to fourth thing) but I’m trying to keep this one car in my life completely stock. Thanks , Walter
My car is a 1995 and the Cags was already disconnected when I purchased it.
Yes the slave is cast, I really did not want to use a cast model. I did a lot of research and the only steel slave cylinder was from Zip and when I visiting with them they had a better than 50% failure with them, So I stayed away from them. I only went O Riley “s since Bill communicated a lot of success with this model.
I hope this answers your questions.
Thanks Hawkeye56
My car is a 1995 and the Cags was already disconnected when I purchased it.
Yes the slave is cast, I really did not want to use a cast model. I did a lot of research and the only steel slave cylinder was from Zip and when I visiting with them they had a better than 50% failure with them, So I stayed away from them. I only went O Riley “s since Bill communicated a lot of success with this model.
I hope this answers your questions.
Thanks Hawkeye56
thanks it did answer my question as I did purchase the steel slave from zip😩 and having broke my knee it’s been sitting in the box for about a year and I just got it all together yesterday So back to square one
thanks for the info 👍
used a meat injector and in the vice had someone push the rod in and while I filled it he slowly let the rod out until it was full and I turned it up so the feed was the high point and let it sit with the port full but it never took any more
used a meat injector and in the vice had someone push the rod in and while I filled it he slowly let the rod out until it was full and I turned it up so the feed was the high point and let it sit with the port full but it never took any more
A transmission guy showed me to connect the line to the slave but unbolted from the trans. Remove the cap from reservoir and pump the rod by hand with someone watching at top for no more bubbles coming into reservoir. My line was long enough to slide it up top and do it myself.. Once that was done I unclipped the plastic strap but leaving the plastic cap on the end of stud and just pushed it on and bolted it up.Perfect stiff pedal.
I didn't mess with waiting for the plastic strap to break but you can do that if you want. If you have air in the line it may not happen or have dead or spongy clutch pedal.
Last edited by TommyFox; Mar 24, 2021 at 02:59 PM.
A transmission guy showed me to connect the line to the slave but unbolted from the trans. Remove the cap from reservoir and pump the rod by hand with someone watching at top for no more bubbles coming into reservoir. My line was long enough to slide it up top and do it myself.. Once that was done I unclipped the plastic strap but leaving the plastic cap on the end of stud and just pushed it on and bolted it up.Perfect stiff pedal.
I didn't mess with waiting for the plastic strap to break but you can do that if you want. If you have air in the line it may not happen or have dead or spongy clutch pedal.
Supposedly I’m told this has an inturnal plastic strap but I will take it off and try the push method , thanks
Supposedly I’m told this has an inturnal plastic strap but I will take it off and try the push method , thanks
Leave the strap on while you are bleeding it. Once all the air bubbles cease in the reservoir unhook the plastic strap on both sides but leave it in place , you want the plastic cap on the end of the rod to remain.
Reading this thread I have two questions please. I'm currently trying to find a clutch slave cylinder for my '89 with the original location for the bleeder valve. I don't want to modify anything -- just purchase an aftermarket cylinder shaped like the original and have my mechanic install it. I started a thread in the general discussion (link below), but it doesn't seem like there are many cylinders with the original location for the bleeder valve. My questions are for mudslide and Hawkeye56 (and anyone else please join in). Mudslide, was it the zip cylinder (link below) that you installed on your '90 vette that gave you the problem with the shaft being shorter than your old one ? I was thinking about getting the zip cylinder because it's apparently the same design as the original. And Hawkeye56, what is the part number or model of the cylinder you bought from ORiley's, and did you have to modify it to get it to work ? Thank you, guys.
Reading this thread I have two questions please. I'm currently trying to find a clutch slave cylinder for my '89 with the original location for the bleeder valve. I don't want to modify anything -- just purchase an aftermarket cylinder shaped like the original and have my mechanic install it. I started a thread in the general discussion (link below), but it doesn't seem like there are many cylinders with the original location for the bleeder valve. My questions are for mudslide and Hawkeye56 (and anyone else please join in). Mudslide, was it the zip cylinder (link below) that you installed on your '90 vette that gave you the problem with the shaft being shorter than your old one ? I was thinking about getting the zip cylinder because it's apparently the same design as the original. And Hawkeye56, what is the part number or model of the cylinder you bought from ORiley's, and did you have to modify it to get it to work ? Thank you, guys.
The Power Torque Slave Cylinder part # CS2296, The bleeder is on the bottom as my car is a 1995, I would advise the bleeder on the bottom for easier bleeding. Now I
do have a braided SS line from the master to the slave and I would suggest getting one so you do not have the unfriendly hard metal line to get lined up. You may want to consider a new master cylinder at the same time and the Power Torque # CM1232. I went Power Toque since Bill (ZF Doc.) said that the Power Torque has been very dependable, ( All Made in CHINA) So we can hope the quality is there.
Please keep us advised of what you end up doing,
Thanks
Hawkeye56
Appreciate the info, Hawkeye56. I'm still uncertain what I will do. Part of the problem is that I'm not installing it myself, so it does not help that I don't have a visual in my mind of what has to be done under the car to get the cylinder to fit. Because of that, I'm leaning towards either zip's, or corvette central's 89-90 Clutch Slave Cylinder, only because they claim to be new and have the bleeder valve in the right position (and I don't want to ask the mechanic to change things to try to make it all fit). That said, I think you mentioned zip's had a 50% failure rate and I suspect zip and CC is selling the same cylinder (links below), which is not comforting if true. So that causes me to pause, which is why I'm still uncertain. More later as I can.
Appreciate the info, Hawkeye56. I'm still uncertain what I will do. Part of the problem is that I'm not installing it myself, so it does not help that I don't have a visual in my mind of what has to be done under the car to get the cylinder to fit. Because of that, I'm leaning towards either zip's, or corvette central's 89-90 Clutch Slave Cylinder, only because they claim to be new and have the bleeder valve in the right position (and I don't want to ask the mechanic to change things to try to make it all fit). That said, I think you mentioned zip's had a 50% failure rate and I suspect zip and CC is selling the same cylinder (links below), which is not comforting if true. So that causes me to pause, which is why I'm still uncertain. More later as I can.
Since you have no idea what it looks like under the car, I would suggest taking the car to the shop that will do the work and have it put on a hoist where you and the mechanic can see what has to be done and give him the options on what style to get. I personally do not know if there is a difference except bleeder location, So I would reach out to Forum members who would know the difference between years. As far as not asking a mechanic not to change things up, Then he must not be able to work out of the Normal, I personally would not want that type of mechanic since we are dealing with 25 plus year old cars and factory OEM parts are not always available.
Good Luck
I appreciate your words, Hawkeye56. I'm having a power steering pump installed in the car at the GM dealership next Monday. I will ask them to take a photo of the clutch slave cylinder to see how it is positioned. More later as I can. Thank you.
Reading this thread I have two questions please. I'm currently trying to find a clutch slave cylinder for my '89 with the original location for the bleeder valve. I don't want to modify anything -- just purchase an aftermarket cylinder shaped like the original and have my mechanic install it. I started a thread in the general discussion (link below), but it doesn't seem like there are many cylinders with the original location for the bleeder valve. My questions are for mudslide and Hawkeye56 (and anyone else please join in). Mudslide, was it the zip cylinder (link below) that you installed on your '90 vette that gave you the problem with the shaft being shorter than your old one ? I was thinking about getting the zip cylinder because it's apparently the same design as the original. And Hawkeye56, what is the part yes number or model of the cylinder you bought from ORiley's, and did you have to modify it to get it to work ? Thank you, guys.
My car is a 1995 and the Cags was already disconnected when I purchased it.
Yes the slave is cast, I really did not want to use a cast model. I did a lot of research and the only steel slave cylinder was from Zip and when I visiting with them they had a better than 50% failure with them, So I stayed away from them. I only went O Riley “s since Bill communicated a lot of success with this model.
I hope this answers your questions.
Thanks Hawkeye56
well Hawkeye56 you were somewhat right as I pulled the slave and it was in pieces definitely was two short of a rod and listed for 89-90 probably is for newer year cars. Well now this gets better i or my son gets the new cast slave in with the right size 3 1/8” rod as compared to the one from Zip 2” and we start to get a pedal and it locks up the pedal two inches from the bottom so I’m thinking something happened to the clutch fork and decide to take the thing apart and last night we get the tranny out and out comes pieces of throw out bearing 😩 This was new from Luk and only had 500 miles on it hard miles but still?? So now I ask all who read this what is the best throw out bearing for this 90 vette ?
Thanks for the info, mudslide. Did you use the Power Torque Slave Cylinder part # CS2296, and did you have to remove the CAGS to install it ? Sorry to hear about your throwout bearing. I hope someone can answer your question about what is the best throw out bearing for your 90 vette in post #19.