Buy from a reputable vendor. What good is a lifetime warranty via the mail? You're at their mercy. Pay the money from Zone. If you have a problem, you can be face to face with someone, and Zone stands behind what they sell. IMHO when it comes to an ECM, a few bucks more is peace of mind. Read the vendor's negative feedback.

 

What does that $60 buy you? I prefer to get it from somwho has gone through the unit and fixed the cold solder that may be loose.

 

to the OP, my 1990 ecu was showing signs of issues.

the ecu is used across many platforms while the chip inside is specific to the vehicle.

it could be the chip in your factory ecu. it could be the ecu.

that ebay ecu will work fine in your 1985 vette, or any of the other cars if u have them.

myself, i looked up the 1990 ecu and learned that SEVERAL other gm cars shared ghe same one. I picked up THREE at my local junkyard in 25 minutes by cutting the wires and and loosenimg two ten mm bolts (my first time ever going to a junkyard) for $10 each. Swap chip from old suspect ecu to new ecu. works fine. maybe i can sell the other two i have or just keep them for my future cars that i know my habit will result in.

when wvzr1 gives advice, its always good. He is a man of few words as he has said himself.

personally, id rather send an email question to the ebay lister and ask for details on how the ecm warranty process works.

but, if its not really about saving a bit of money just get it from a local provider as other have said. depends on your situation.


no matter which computer u pick up u r likely to have to provide the chip.

good luck with whatever you decide.





your 85 uses the prom chip + calpak deal.

later cars used the memcal deal. in my example, i pulled my memcal from the 1990 ecu and put it into the ecu (same exact ecu) from a buick regal.

if you buy from zone or like , would be worth your time to ask them if the prom and calpak are included (in which case they need to ask verify auto or manual) or are u swapping yours anyways.

good luck with it all. VT.

ps, my factory 1990 ecu looked like this inside.

pss, if zone will let you return the ecm if its not the ecm, that may be a bonus too.






note this is not your 85 ecu. this was a 1990.

link to ecu models:https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadBinDefs.htm#GM

 

I accidentally posted this on another thread.
Try this

"Replace the TPS Throttle Position Sensor
At least on my LT1 this was the final step before the ECU, replaced almost all, and tested every single Ignition peice including all fuses and grounds. Started right up. (This was also all part of my 95's restoration process) Why wasn't my old TPS a factor in the rest of the aforementioned Ignition related replacements? It's because I had replaced it less than a year ago for a cheap piece. Should've known, I totally skipped it cuz it was still "new".
Your injectors won't pulse because the cylinders are flooded, even if they aren't your broken TPS is stuck at wide open making your ECU think its dumping fuel in there, no pulse (Car thinks it should fire with the excess fuel). Think of it like this, you drove your car last night, fuel lines are pressurized, everything primed and ready to go for the next crank... you go to turn the car on next morning.. turn the key to accessory running the fuel pump with more pressure, of course the car turns on after cranking. But say you pressed the gas all the way down at crank.. the injectors will actually stop pulsing, so as to keep the engine from dumping too much gas unnecessary, the car can still start like this sense it was still wet enough, but with a broken TPS stuck at wide open eventually your ECU-injectors aren't pulsing at all to begin with. Take your TPS Sensor off and see if the spring return isn't working, that's your problem.
This is for LT1, just a quick look encase this may be it, but I hope it works for you."

 

He's losing [pulse on one bank. If it was the TPS, he'd lose it on both.

 

You're right, I thought there were some differences in batch or bank fire between the 2 engines. But I'm unfamiliar with them so I though it would be a good item to not overlook. I guess it could be the ECU, Injector Driver Relays who knows.

 

We're all here to help.

 

I would like to thank all of you who offered great advice on solving the cause of lack of pulses to the injectors on the driver’s side of my’85 corvette. After completing exhaustive tests that ruled out causes other than the ECM, two CF senior members suggested that I consider purchasing a replacement ECM offered on EBay for $59.99. I ordered the unit and it arrived at my door in 5 days. I transplanted the prom and calpak from my ECM into the replacement unit and plugged in the harnesses. I tested with my noid light and was happy to see the presence of pulses on both passenger and driver’s sides of the engine. After connecting the injectors’ electrical plugs I turned the key and the engine fired right up. What a relief to get the car running and back on the road again!!

 

Great work! If your comfortable with that ecm, and you're planning to keep the car, I would buy another to keep just in case. Enjoy!

 

good job.

 

What about fixing that one? I'm sure there are rebuild services that go through the cold solder points and test it out?

 

Jon at FIT said that the injector driver problem may be related to the malfunction of just one transistor. I have electronics repair experience so if anyone has a Sams Photofact or a schematic for the ECM that indicates which portion of the circuit serves as the driver for the left bank of injectors, I could troubleshoot and replace the faulty component and have a back up ECM